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Oil pan stuck? (83 TSCC 16V 750 w/oil cooler)

mikerophone

mikerophone

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Haven't pried on it or really banged on it hard yet, but I have tapped on it with a rubber mallet all the way around.

I'm sure all the M6 bolts are out of the pan as are the 4 bolts holding the oil cooler and the 2 holding the oil cooler line brackets to the frame - do I need to remove the 2 oil cooler line banjo bolts?
 
All the bolts are pretty visible from the bottom. You can take a 2x4 and hammer and give it a wrap from the side. I wound not try and pride it with a screw driver but if that did not work I hear a thin putty knives might work.
 
mikerophone said:
Thanks Posplayr! I'll try the 2x4, the oil cooler lines stay connected to the pan, right?
Click to expand...
Sorry to say I was thinking 80-82 gs750e. I have never taken a pan of of a 83 750. So just make sure all the bolts are out. I figure taking the oil cooler lines off will be much easier with the pan on.
 
Brendan W said:
Put your favourite shirt on the ground underneath. It will fall off in seconds:)
Click to expand...

:o After taking the banjo bolts off, right? The manual is more of a full engine disassembly process once the engine is out and doesn't say to take off the banjo bolts/oil cooler lines.

I'll give it a good whack with a 2x4 tomorrow night and if that doesn't do it, I'll put some bolts back in and then take off the lines. I didn't order new washers for the oil cooler lines so I hope they don't leak...
 
You may try putting a wrench on a cooler bolt and gentle tighten type turn without much force to lever the pan while you give it a wack with your rubber mallet.
Be sure and not put much force on the banjo bolt!
Just enough leverage to break the seal.

Link to part fiche

From what I make of the fiche the cooler line banjo bolts do not attach to anything but molding in the pan.
I would try and take it straight down instead of force on just one side after the gasket seal pulls loose as the parts marked 31 and 33 look like they fit into something above.
I would not want to chance forcing those parts apart at a angle as the tolerances look tight and you may damage them or the parts they fit into.
 
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I looked at the parts finch and it is definitely different to the earlier models. When I describe tapping you hit from the side while listening to the sound. You should be able to hear the muffled sound of the cover rather than a solid sound as if you were just tapping on the side of the motor. Go around and it should give. The thin purdy knive can help . Pulling on the oil lines to remove he cover should be discouraged.
 
Crankthat said:
You may try putting a wrench on a cooler bolt and gentle tighten type turn without much force to lever the pan while you give it a wack with your rubber mallet.
Be sure and not put much force on the banjo bolt!
Just enough leverage to break the seal.
Click to expand...


This is a good idea as well as a thin purdy type knife if needed. just being careful to not mar or scratch the surface. If anything I'll try to scratch the pan as opposed to the block! Not that I'd try to scratch anything. Parallel to the mating surfaces. Parallel to the mating surfaces. A little Permatex "right stuff" may be in order when putting it back together, tensioning the bolts in a star pattern like a head or valve cover...


It is an interesting design - a little worried about the fact that a couple of the bolts had dry metal shavings on the tops of them when I pulled them out. Not sure what that's about - they looked aluminum. A little hard to see as the camera wouldn't focus close enough and photobucket (or the uploaded) flipped the image 180.
 

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IF that pan has never been off since it was put on at the factory, those are shavings that stuck to case after they were cut and were cut by the bolts as they were installed. New motors are often full of shavings and other loose bits. Thats why the break-in oil and filter change.
 
I generally take a ball peen hammer and lightly tap around the whole pan, both from the bottom and from the sides with 2 bolts in opposite corner, until I hear it go from a solid sound to the muffled sound that posplayer talked about. The force of the blows I use are enough to make a good sound, but not enough to leave marks in the metal
 
Thank you both. Yes the bike only had 5k miles on it so it has likely never been off yet.

I didn't end up getting the pan off - it was really stuck on there and isn't leaking I just wanted to check the pick up screen especially with the recent post on here showing what looked like the remains of a gasket or some RTV and I don't want to lose oil pressure so I'd love to check the pick up screen and of course replace the gasket while I'm in there but I was too hasty to get back on the road!

Now that the weather is cooling off I'll do it before I put her up for the winter. Thanks for the ball peen hammer tip - that sucker is on there good and I really don't want to break anything. Was hoping somebody knew definitively whether or not the oil line banjo bolts actually connect to the block through the oil pan or just to the pan itself, because it feels like they are holding it back. I had all the bolts of the oil pan for sure and it wouldn't budge and it's hard to tell from the manual in the engine tear down section if the oil cooler lines have to come off...worst case I'll order some crush washers for the banjo bolts and pop those oil lines off as well.
 
Looks to me like the banjos will need to come out to me.Mine have been off twice with the same washers,no leaks.Just looked at my 85.
 
I used a dead blow hammer once, you can get a bit more rougher with one of those then you can with a steel head ball peen. A couple good solid whacks should do the trick.
 
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