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oil pressure drop @ hard throttle

  • Thread starter Thread starter paco13
  • Start date Start date
OK,
I see what your sayin'. It's settled then. Thats the way i'll go if I indeed have a problem.
I still wonder why Suzuki had it p/u from the front.
As you stated, oil pressure should be of higher priorty under load.
Thanks again.
 
OK,
I see what your sayin'. It's settled then. Thats the way i'll go if I indeed have a problem.
I still wonder why Suzuki had it p/u from the front.
As you stated, oil pressure should be of higher priorty under load.
Thanks again.

The only question in my mind now is depending upon the way you ride, the GS oiling system (with 750 gears, top end oiler, 1150 cover, and 550 lines/cooler for me) can push the bulk of the oil into the top end and run dry. Is that normal "fun" ridding or is that high RPM track riding? Unless you somehow instrument the oil level, accuracte oil pressue is the only way to tell.
 
interesting thread .

i fitted a gauge ages ago after putting in a top end oiler . the oiler took out the sensor which kind of left me no choice. i was gonna stick it on the motor originally but thought that was pointless as you want it visible at a glance. so using a kit that i got from a online company which is no longer i managed to put it up on the bars.

by drilling the top nut out and using a rubber grommet i was able to route the line from the gallery behind number 4 barrel up through the steering stem.once you screw the nut down you attah the gauge and push it down to sit in the grommet ...nice and clean .

works well too ...but as you say when cold it goes up and pins its self until warm. once warm it sits at about 6 or 7 under normal running about 1 or so at idle ...0.2 at idle in traffic....and 10 or so when doing illegal stuff

well chuffed with it
 
interesting thread .

i fitted a guage ages ago after putting in a top end oiler . the oiler took out the sensor which kind of left me no choice. i was gonna stick it on the motor originally but thought that was pointless as you want it visible at a glance. so using a kit that i got from a online company which is no longer i managed to put it up on the bars.

by drilling the top nut out and using a rubber grommet i was able to route the line from the gallery behind number 4 barrel up through the steering stem.once you screw the nut down you attah the gauge and push it down to sit in the grommet ...nice and clean .

works well too ...but as you say when cold it goes up and pins its self until warm. once warm it sits at about 6 or 7 under normal running about 1 or so at idle ...0.2 at idle in traffic....and 10 or so when doing illegal stuff

well chuffed with it

Funny, I came up with the same idea for the 1 1/2" guage. Doesn't work well for the larger 2 1/8" lighted guage.

For everybody Else the GSXR top nut is almost hollow so it is easy to drill and stick the guage fitting through it. The GS top nuts are solid but might be able to make it work.
 
Paco, after reading through all 5 pages of this, I HIGHLY recommend you drop the oil pan & make SURE your o ring in there isn't crushed beyond holding pressure. That's where I would start. Ray.
 
Paco, after reading through all 5 pages of this, I HIGHLY recommend you drop the oil pan & make SURE your o ring in there isn't crushed beyond holding pressure. That's where I would start. Ray.

Yea, I get similar pressure numbers to saffa and hard for me to imagine losing pressure unless something is wrong; that O ring is the easiest thing to check.

works well too ...but as you say when cold it goes up and pins its self until warm. once warm it sits at about 6 or 7 under normal running about 1 or so at idle ...0.2 at idle in traffic....and 10 or so when doing illegal stuff
 
Thanx Ray,
Week end is coming so Maybe I'll get back on track with this.
Got side-tracked last weekend with the '82 I picked up, and now dealing with the weather is keeping me from the garage.
 
I had this same thing happen last night on the 700. I gave it a gear under heavy acceleration and my light flashed for a brief second.

So after reading this entire thread I am a little confused here. Is this something to be concerned about? I checked my oil cold with the bike standing straight up this morning and it was a bit low..is that all it is?
 
Paco, after reading through all 5 pages of this, I HIGHLY recommend you drop the oil pan & make SURE your o ring in there isn't crushed beyond holding pressure. That's where I would start. Ray.

what ray said...
also,
to reverse your oil pump pickup you do not have to weld anything(you can but you don't have to)...
just a little clearance work and the pickup can get reversed..ive been doing it this way for years to drag race engines for myself and others.
bottom line is this street bike shouldn't need a reversed pickup.
is this bike fixed?
was it even broken?
whats the scoop?
 
I actually just got back to working on this earlier this week.
Things I did;
I installed mechanical gauge.

fixed leaking oiler with dowty seals.

replaced o-ring in sump.

filled oil to correct/recommended level.

As others said the oil pressure max's out when cold.
calms down after warm.
Took it for a ride and the pressure definitely drops when @ high RPM. pressure climbs with rpms to past max 15psi on gauge, then the light comes on and gauge bottoms simaltaniously. Chop the throttle pressure comes back in a sec or 2.

I haven't tried adding more oil yet. It will be storming all weekend so maybe next week I'll give it a shot and see what it does before ripping the pan off again.
 
I actually just got back to working on this earlier this week.
Things I did;
I installed mechanical gauge.

fixed leaking oiler with dowty seals.

replaced o-ring in sump.

filled oil to correct/recommended level.

As others said the oil pressure max's out when cold.
calms down after warm.
Took it for a ride and the pressure definitely drops when @ high RPM. pressure climbs with rpms to past max 15psi on gauge, then the light comes on and gauge bottoms simaltaniously. Chop the throttle pressure comes back in a sec or 2.

I haven't tried adding more oil yet. It will be storming all weekend so maybe next week I'll give it a shot and see what it does before ripping the pan off again.

sounds like all the oil is being pumped from the sump and it is all in the head and trying to get back to the sump. The pickup gets exposed and there is a sudden drop in pressure when it sucks air.

I have not been able to run mine hard, but the one time I did rev to about 8-9K in 2nd the pressure just pegged. As you can image with the 1166 this is not a long period to get to red line in 2nd. What was unusual was when I back off the pressure stayed pegged.

I also have a 550 cooler with the top end oiler so that cooler restriction could keep the flow down so I dont run out of oil. Without the cooler and small lines, you are draining your sump.

Recall the coolers are after the pump but before the oil filter. The pressure gauge is then after this.

Recommendation: Add an oil cooler like either an 1150 or 550 oil cooler and don't use oversized lines.
 
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This is how us bad ass old school turbo dragracers make the oil light NOT flicker:eek:
004-3.jpg
003-4.jpg
 
With a little adjustment:D and a milling machine...this is the stock oil pickup turned sideways and trimmed...along with the pan.
005-2.jpg
006-1.jpg
 
With a little adjustment:D and a milling machine...this is the stock oil pickup turned sideways and trimmed...along with the pan.
005-2.jpg
006-1.jpg

thats what i posted but without the picture tutorial..
ive been doing it that way for years.:)
 
Me too:D it is hard to explain to someone who has never even thought of this without pictures. I do this for a job all day long on aircraft as a trainer;)
 
I was explaining to Jim about that mod but the pics puts it all together. Thanks Kris!
 
With any luck I'll have some time this weekend to work on my own sh*t.
Thanx all for your help, its much appreciated.
I'll update as I go.
 
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