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oil recomendations

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Any oil prefrences out there?

Any synthetic users, haters...

what's the blood in your beast.
 
Reg castrol 10-40 If you go to synthetic you will find a lot of leaks you never knew you had
 
Synthetic is superior in every way over dino oil except for price. Some synthetics can cause the clutch to slip also so be careful. I use strictly dino oil since I change it so often, the price is not an issue. If I didn't change my oil as frequently perhaps I would consider the extra costs of synthetic. If you change your oil often, synthetic is way too expensive and you don't reap the benefits as much. I go with cheap 10w40 dino and make sure there are no friction modifiers in the formula. 8)
 
Yeah, just got the bike, so I was gonna give it a few changes quicker than normal... maybe a month apart. i bought synthetic for my other bike and heard once you put it in you have to stick with it from then on... then my bike got hit so I never knew if it was better or not.
 
OLD seals will start to leak if synthetic is used If you have rebuilt your motor go ahead and use synthetic
 
My engine has 66K on it. synthetic in summer Dyno in winter and not a drop leaks except from the cam chain adjuster which always leaked. so we all have diferent experiences with the oils. The trick is to change it often :D
 
I use shell rotella 15/40. I`ve used it in 350hp drag bikes to 4 wheelers. Never any clutch or oil related problems. And its cheap and does not have the dreaded auto oil additives that will make your clutch slip. If you research this its been a hot topic many times.
 
Just picked up a gallon of the Rotella 15/40 synthetic at Walmart a few weeks back. Only paid $11 or $12 for it.
 
Most of the 'leaks' that occur from using synthetics is caused from oily grime around the seals that gets cleaned off from the esters in synthetic oils. it is NOT because the synthetic is 'slipperier' than dino oils. both types are compatible with each other (this used to be a problem though, in years past), and like earlier posted, if you change your oil alot, like every 1k or 2k, you may not realise the benefits of using them. For 'off the shelf' types, Mobile 'red cap' (15w-50) has been proven to work well in our engines. Although I have not used them, Redline and Amsoil are superior oils if you like the mail-order or specialty parts house way.
 
I use Castrol 10w/40
A gallon at walmart was $6+

Never a problem, no clutch slipping over 30000 miles no issues
 
If you live in Canada

If you live in Canada

I have used canadian tire brand 10W40 for years and have had no trouble. Its $1.89 a liter!!! Beats the mega bucks stuff at the bike shops!! I dont know how some guys afford to stay in the sport for the cost of all our associated gear.
 
I won't use anything but mobil one. been using it for years and have almost 50000 on my bike,201000 on my truck and no internal problems yet.
 
Amsoil 20w-50 & 10w-40 are both wet clutch compatible and you " can "switch back to regular oil ( but why would you ?? ) , aslong as the motor is in good condtion and no oil leaks Amasoil can be used in any motor...
 
britman said:
Amsoil 20w-50 & 10w-40 are both wet clutch compatible and you " can "switch back to regular oil ( but why would you ?? ) , aslong as the motor is in good condtion and no oil leaks Amasoil can be used in any motor...
Click to expand...
Just a comment on the switching. Why?? The synthetic oil causes my oil temp to run cooler and in winter, i dont feel the enine warms up enpugh so i switch back to dyno. i took the oil cooler off because i dont think it is needed. with the oil cooler on, the engine even ran way to cool for synthetic in the summer. That was just my experience .
 
Mobil 1 5W-50 all year around in temperatures between 5C and 40C. 10,000km change interval. No oil cooler. No leaks that weren't there with dino oil and now fixed. No clutch problems.
 
alright, i read a couple times above about "oilcoolers"... did a search in here for them and found a couple spec threads but nothing noting the reason for an oil cooler. obviously it cools your oil, but what are the benifits of it?

It was a tepid 90 degrees here the other day and i was stuck in traffic. As my head began to boil in the helmet i wondered what was happening to my motor.
 
Any name brand 10W/40 automotive oil, ie. Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline or Quaker State. Hey, if it's good enough for turbos, it's good enough for my bike. 8)
 
Oil coolers are meant to do exactly that!! cool the engine oil.
Trouble begins when it is "full flow" meaning it is part of the oil circuit and the full flow of oil goes through it, you actually need temperature in your engine oil, as I recall most is designed to operate best at about 85-95 C (yes up around boiling point for water 180-200F) 1150 motors have an oil cooler ex-factory, but it is "by-pass flow" meaning only some of the oil goes through it, to run a full flow cooler it actually needs a temeperature controlled "thermostat" type switch that will open and close as the oil goes over a certain temperature.
Dink
 
1. Synthetic oil is good but, probably a waste of money.
2. 10W-40 is best from about 0 degrees F to 100 degrees F.
3. 20W-50 is best for hot climates and mid-summer riding.
4. Change your oil at least every 1000 miles.
 
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