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oil seep at base of the barrels, case

  • Thread starter Thread starter randaroo
  • Start date Start date
R

randaroo

Guest
Any success in stoping the oil seep at the base of the cylinder barrells at the case without lifting it all and the crazy gasket search it would entail?
BTW its a gs1100e.
Thanks in advance.
 
Almost certainly you'll have to pull the top end off and pop in new gaskets. Just double check where the oil leak is coming from before you make a start - might be spraying from somewhere else (unlikely but not impossible).
 
As HH said, the only real fix is to fix it. Those gaskets aren't hard to find at all. I've been searching ebay for 1100E parts, and base gaskets are everywhere, plus most of the big parts sellers have them. That being said, depending on the mileage, if I was gonna go to THAT much trouble I'd probably consider a ring job as well.
 
you're right

you're right

I was looking for a "the third bolt from the end loosens and just needs to be cleaned and sealed" kind of excuse, but the advice here helps point me to a solution rather than more "fixit" questions here. Experience pays dividends. Thanks

i have the engine out and am doing the winter fresh'n it up, paint cleanning etc. So I will be adjusting the valves, sealing the cam chain adjuster leak, the exhaust leak, the valve cover leak(s), the shift sending wiring seal leak, the tach seal-leak. ummm i hope i get it all.

i'm also way the heck in the boonies and the local isn't quite so local especialy the way they look at you when you ask for anything other than a new snowmobile.

Oh ya, 56,000 kms on the bike with header and stock jets so a valve inspect is warrented i suspect.
 
Again, this is just me, and I tend to overdo things, but with THAT many leaks, and the engine off the bike, I'd buy a complete gasket set for about $70, and do pretty much everything.
 
That's a time consuming but easy task.
Wait till you have to do this
cases027.jpg
 
I'm about to do it for the first time Bill. Took the G down to that point, but didn't split the cases. Gonna pull the crank on the E, check for true and weld if not welded.
 
doctorgonzo said:
I'm about to do it for the first time Bill. Took the G down to that point, but didn't split the cases. Gonna pull the crank on the E, check for true and weld if not welded.
Click to expand...
You can tell if it's welded by taking off the charging rotor and measuring the end taper. 22mm is a big end and if it measures that it is welded.
You need to get a good puller though.
 
chef1366 said:
You can tell if it's welded by taking off the charging rotor and measuring the end taper. 22mm is a big end and if it measures that it is welded.
You need to get a good puller though.
Click to expand...

Good tip, thanks. I see the pullers pop up on ebay. Guess if I am committed to this bike I might as well grab one.
 
doctorgonzo said:
Good tip, thanks. I see the pullers pop up on ebay. Guess if I am committed to this bike I might as well grab one.
Click to expand...

That tends to happen with toys that one really likes. Just "keep buy'n the tools/parts" to make them purrrrrrrfect. :o
 
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