We get that a lot around here.
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We get that a lot around here.
P
Potts4
Guest
Thanks for the mega-welcome!!
So I don't have to worry about the compression being on low side (110-130psi)
I have put on about 1000 miles since the rebuild and have changed the oil three times.
So I don't have to worry about the compression being on low side (110-130psi)
I have put on about 1000 miles since the rebuild and have changed the oil three times.
D
DanTheMan
Guest
You should be fine. Do your next oil/filter change in 1500 mi., inspect it then. Keep track of your oil consumption as well. Use a high quality diesel certified oil such as Rotella.
I still can't understand why you tore it down to parade rest and didn't just do the rings at that time though.
I still can't understand why you tore it down to parade rest and didn't just do the rings at that time though.
N
Normk
Guest
If the oil turning black is bothering you more than any other aspect of operation then try a non-detergent oil which are marketed for vintage vehicles. Non-detergent or straight mineral oil stays much cleaner than modern formulations so that should solve that issue to some degree.
*Note* that I don't suggest that this is a good idea! It is not.
The reason that the oil is turning black is that it is picking up, and holding in suspension, carbon particles (mostly colloidal) which are the result of partially burned fuel blow-by past the rings. The only way to reduce the amount of this material is to either reduce the amount which the oil is carrying, resulting in that material being left in the engine, or to reduce blow-by of unburned fuel.
Some others have referred to the fact that these engines are less "tight" than newer designs of automotive and this is certainly correct. What you may wish to consider is whether the degree is markedly greater than for similar motorcycles operating under similar conditions.
A rich air-fuel mixture will tend to produce lower combustion temperatures and more carbon particles which will contribute to greater oil contamination but this may not have as great an effect as anticipated.
Wear/poor sealing of the piston/ring/cylinder walls will contribute to blow-by and elevate the carbon content in the oil. Short runs and cooler operation will also elevate carbon particle production and so oil contamination.
The most fundamental question relates to whether this is an issue which requires overhaul (I note that you used the term "rebuild" but since you didn't rebore with new pistons & rings, the term does not apply). I agree with others, just ride it.
You may be advised to check to ensure that the jetting is not overly rich and that the "choke" is off completely. If you are in the habit of warming the engine up before starting out to ride, this can contribute to the oil contamination and is not advised regardless of the "myth sayers".
*Note* that I don't suggest that this is a good idea! It is not.
The reason that the oil is turning black is that it is picking up, and holding in suspension, carbon particles (mostly colloidal) which are the result of partially burned fuel blow-by past the rings. The only way to reduce the amount of this material is to either reduce the amount which the oil is carrying, resulting in that material being left in the engine, or to reduce blow-by of unburned fuel.
Some others have referred to the fact that these engines are less "tight" than newer designs of automotive and this is certainly correct. What you may wish to consider is whether the degree is markedly greater than for similar motorcycles operating under similar conditions.
A rich air-fuel mixture will tend to produce lower combustion temperatures and more carbon particles which will contribute to greater oil contamination but this may not have as great an effect as anticipated.
Wear/poor sealing of the piston/ring/cylinder walls will contribute to blow-by and elevate the carbon content in the oil. Short runs and cooler operation will also elevate carbon particle production and so oil contamination.
The most fundamental question relates to whether this is an issue which requires overhaul (I note that you used the term "rebuild" but since you didn't rebore with new pistons & rings, the term does not apply). I agree with others, just ride it.
You may be advised to check to ensure that the jetting is not overly rich and that the "choke" is off completely. If you are in the habit of warming the engine up before starting out to ride, this can contribute to the oil contamination and is not advised regardless of the "myth sayers".
B
Billy Ricks
Guest
Learned that when I was a kid. As soon as my vehicles will roll out of the driveway I'm off. Let them warm up as I ride or drive. If you have a properly working enrichener they should pull away right after start up.
1
1_v8_merc
Guest
Black oil happens.
Every GS I've owned had this problem to some extent.
It might take around 4 or 5 oil changes, before the oil looks cleaner.
You gotta remember, most of these bikes are 25-30 years old.
As long as the bike runs good, and the oil is Sticky, you're okay.
Every GS I've owned had this problem to some extent.
It might take around 4 or 5 oil changes, before the oil looks cleaner.
You gotta remember, most of these bikes are 25-30 years old.
As long as the bike runs good, and the oil is Sticky, you're okay.
G
Guest
Guest
I wouldn't rebuild the engine because the oil is black, just so long as it isn't sludge coming out of it. Just ride the thing,
over time it may start to improve, change your brand of oil to Shell Rotella.
over time it may start to improve, change your brand of oil to Shell Rotella.
But is it a problem?
If they all do it, and there's a sound engineering reason for it, and they have all done it since they were new, is it really a problem?
Diesels turn their oil black too, maybe every one of them in every ship, train and truck in operation anywhere in the world needs a rebuild.
You save the world by re-ringing everything, I'm going riding.
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