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OK, new question. GS1000 BS34SS. getting 'air screws' out.

  • Thread starter Thread starter bobasoozoo
  • Start date Start date
B

bobasoozoo

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OK, I want to get rid of the effing airbox on my GS1000GT.

How the heck do I get those 'air screws' loose on the BS34SS carbs?
 
This can be a problem. One solution is to send 'em off to:

www.motorcyclecarbs.com

You see, the needles were glued in place at the factory. But some turn very easily and some don't. Try Goo Gone or some other solvent. Don't bugger up the screw slot on top of the needle, or mess up the threads. Those needles are about 25 bucks a piece.
 
I used carb cleaner and or wd40, then tightened it first to see how far out it was (not easy, and I didn't get it all the way in anywho) but then had to work it back and forth to break it free, then even more all the way out.

mine seemed to have metal shavings in the threads of the screws, or just grime and dirt, but it made it really hard to get out. buggered up the screw head minimally, but it went back in fine after the chem dip
 
Yeah be careful with this. Here's what I would suggest. Try to drill into the aluminum plugs only enough to get in a screw of some kind. Screw it in and pull out with pliers.

DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH; this drops metal shavings in there, and they're aluminum so you can't magnet them. If you take the carbs off spray the newly opened air jet channel with carb cleaner to rinse out the shavings.

I didn't know the screws were glued from the factory but if that's the case, I'd back them all the way out and make sure I cleaned up the threads, and then put them back.

This can be a serious and expensive nightmare. I just rebuilt my carbs mostly because I had to buy rebuild kits to get these air screws, and I bungled mine up hard-core when taking the aluminum plugs off. The new ones work much better, and my bike is much happier.

To give you an idea of what this can lead to...my #4 air screw was stripped from me trying to force it out past the blocked up threads. I had to drill out the center of the screw deep enough to accomodate a #1 Craftsman Screw Extractor. Fortunately, the extractor worked PERFECTLY, which was part good luck and part some good experience. But I tell you, applying your drill and hammer to your $150 carb is enough to make your stomach turn.

Are you SURE you want to get rid of the airbox?
 
Yes, the glued in information was a tip I picked up from the www.motorcyclecarbs.com website. According to their site they go directly to the screw extraction method of removal.
 
thanks for plug info but no plugs on mine. PO?

yep, i had read the motorcyclecarbs dot com stuff, but was hoping for some info on the adhesive. PO already effed the heads. I got two out by turning in a bit and then rocking after wirebrush to female threads.

glad to hear the extractor worked. i'm always suspicious when i read something like the motorcyclecarbs dot com stuff, that they may have left out some critical info such as, 'heat to 700 degrees before turning extractor'. i'm used to working on old cars this 'glued in place' stuff is unfamiliar territory.

i have been making my own extractors for things like broken bolts. they are straight rather than tapered and don't tend to expand the diameter of the part.

as for dispensing with the airbox...after spending too much time getting it reinstalled, i was not too keen on ever doing it again...maybe will rethink...might be easier to just wait and see how the fuel injection project comes along.
 
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