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Only one horn works at a time

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anthony
  • Start date Start date
19 volts!!! have you checked your battery, and regulator? Or maybe better yet your meter?
 
The battery is brand new, and I haven't gotten to check the Rectifier or Stator yet. I was going to run a quick test after I get it inspected today. Everything else works great on the bike though, and one horn is no biggie for me. But of course it would be nice if I could get it to work.
 
Add a horn relay, see what happens, When I went to a better horn for my bike, it worked fine until I got everything else wired back in, lights, coils etc. Horn no work, add relay now I have a 150db Blaster horn. I used the high pitch. Dang stock horn NEVER even came close to working like this one does.
 
It was 19V with the engine off. But even if the bike is on, both horns still don't work at the same time.
 
You really need to check your meter. I don't buy the 19 volts in the battery
 
No way you have 19V with the engine not running. My guess is that you're not using the meter correctly. First you say 12V now you say 19V.
 
It was reading 12V when we no horns were connected at all. Then we put one on and checked the other terminal that was not connected, and while holding the button, it said between 18-19V. So maybe it is the meter, or we are taking it incorrectly. If so, what's the proper way to do it? Also, I did the quick check test (6 steps) that a member here posted to get a baseline reading of the electrical system, and all the reading were exactly to that post's readings. Only difference was when we revved the engine to 2500 and 5000, the volt read about .2 or .3 under the specified range, but that may have been because it was tricky to get the RPM's to hover in that range, because I had to adjust a lot. With that in mind, what should I do?
 
There is a lot of talk here about checking voltage, and you keep responding that it is 12 volts "even when both horns are connected". My question is "what is the voltage when you push the horn button and get whatever sound that you do get?"

You keep saying that it's a constant 12 volts, but you also said that the headlight dimmed when you pushed the horn button. There is no way the headlight will dim if the voltage is a "constant" 12 volts.
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My guess is that the voltage is simply dipping because the battery can not supply enough current to feed both horns when the engine is not running. Is it any better with the engine running? You have reported that all the charging system tests seem to be good, so the horns should also be getting enough power.

If you don't want to run the bike every time you want to test the horns, you can also use jumper cables that are connected to the battery in a NON-RUNNING car. It will still only be 12 volts, not the 14 of a running bike, but the larger car battery will be able to supply enough current to keep the voltage from dipping very far below that.

.
 
I will do some more accurate testing tonight, with the bike off, and on, and with horns on/off, and when the button is pressed with all that as well. But I was saying when the bike was off and one horn was connected, if you kept pressing the button with only one horn sounding, the other horn terminal (with no horn connected) was getting 18-19V. The 12V reading was a reading when no horns were connected, and we held the button pressed. But I will triple check those readings and write them down, and come back with those results. A list of results will help much better :P
 
Anthony said:
..., if you kept pressing the button with only one horn sounding, the other horn terminal (with no horn connected) was getting 18-19V.
Click to expand...
Too bad you are so far from me. I just HAVE to see this miracle battery that jumps 50% in voltage when you put a load on it.

No way, no how, is that possible.
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
So here's some news for ya. I went to get my bike inspected, and ON THE WAY, my turn signal/horn fuse blew. So I got that replaced, and my turns, gear indicator all started working again.... except the horn. Now the horn doesn't even work at all. When you press the horn button, all the lighted displays on the cluster go out/severely dim. Once you let go, it goes back to normal. So what the actual crap is going on!?!?
 
Anthony said:
So here's some news for ya. I went to get my bike inspected, and ON THE WAY, my turn signal/horn fuse blew. So I got that replaced, and my turns, gear indicator all started working again.... except the horn. Now the horn doesn't even work at all. When you press the horn button, all the lighted displays on the cluster go out/severely dim. Once you let go, it goes back to normal. So what the actual crap is going on!?!?
Click to expand...

You have a short somewhere in the harness, bad grounds, something crossed wired, combinations of, something has to make the fuses blow. Yer gonna have to dig for this.

You can get the relays anywhere, Autozone, O'Riley's etc.
 
Great..... well, at least I can get to looking. I didn't want to get into the wiring harness, but it looks like a need to. I will use contact cleaner and dielectric grease to clean it up. And it has to be one of those things, because I held the button down for a few seconds and it blew another fuse. Frustrating...
 
Well I haven't done any readings because no horn was working once I replaced the second horn. So I cleaned up some burnt plastic around some inline connectors and sealed them properly, and still no horn sounded. So I thought to try and hook up the second horn, and when I did, the main horn I was using started working again, and when I unplugged the second horn, it continued to work. There is something so wrong, and I can't pin point it. It must be higher up from the battery, as that's where I did a lot of cleaning of the connectors at. Maybe the rectifier is messing things up? I don't know where the horn relay is either.
 
Okay, so this horn issue is still very weird to me and my dad. When one horn is plugged up, and I take the power of the disconnected spade terminal and touch a metal surface with it, it sounds the horn. I wasn't even pressing the button. Yes, I've cleaned all my connections and replaced the burnt ones. I also soldered my R/R and stator wires together. No, I haven't done the stator papers, because I was going to do that this winter, and the quick test results indicated that my charging system works. It was not turned on or even keyed on for 3 weeks, and everything came up and worked like normal, so that's another indicator that my charging system isn't bad. Any further suggestions?
 
See I would absolutely be okay with this, but sometimes even one horn doesn't work. It seems to be random, and I think it has to do with the splice into the green wire that gives it power. Also, my grounds are black, and I have NO idea where they go. Maybe I should unravel my wiring harness and trace it back?
 
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