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Original Header Bolt Type

Shin-Ken 1074

Shin-Ken 1074

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Hi to all, I am restoring my 82 1100 Katana (E24 Australian model) and would like to know if the header pipes were secured by studs and nuts on the pipe collars or with bolts into the head? I have the headers and exhaust system (new genuine system) however, Suzuki have advised me that allen head bolts will be supplied for mounting. Hmmm I can't remember what was used but stainless steel allen head bolts don't ring any bells here. The system is black chrome and stainless didn't go with that system.
 
the parts fiche for the 82 1000 and 1100 models indeed show what looks like an allen head bolt
 
Thanks psyguy, so stainless allen heads it is then. That would explain why the headers arrived with two black flanges and two alloy finish flanges, an each way bet by the look of it. Looking at some old photos they have alloy finish on each flange not the black I have on header 1 and 4, Iam confused. Cheers mate and thanks for the help.
 
UK spec bike was exhaust collar and bolt with 7 marked on it in chrome.

Suzuki mad.

GS1000ET 1981
GSX1100ESD 1983
GSF1200K1 2002
Comming soon GS1000S 1980.
 
Thanks suzuki mad, looks like my headers are for the 83/84 black engine hence the black collars on header 1 and 4 when my 82 (model I ordered) should have black pipes and alloy finish collars, cheers.
 
this is a pic off a german gs site
http://www.gs-classic.de/index1e.htm
it does look like an allen head bolt on a silver flange, but black exhaust

gsx1100s_14b.jpg
 
My 83 ESD has chrome pipes on a black engine, came that way as standard.

You can get black bolts (got some for the crank case cover's)

Suzuki mad
 
Yeah that looks better, as i replied to suzuki mad I think I've been sent the 83/84 model system not the 82. Thanks for the pic and the follow up mate, cheers. Hows Bruno going?
 
You have a black engine bike? Must be a later one then.

Just checked the parts book and its 'Allen head' bolts. So I'm wrong. Part number 09106-08018/08021 should be chrome ones.

1983 bike 09106-08024.

Suzuki mad
 
Thanks for the confirmation on allen head bolts suzuki mad, tick that box. Mine is the 82 Katana with cast aluminium paint finish engine, Australia got the black engines for the 83 and 84 models. Looks like different part numbers for UK and OZ allen head bolts, number here is 07130-08047. And your right their chrome finish not the stainless that I mentioned, cheers.
 
Would sure like to see some pics of that Kat, Shin. Mine's still in pieces as I've had zero time to fiddle. Plus, trying to work out the carburetion on the 84 750....
 
Hey Smokin' how are ya? Thanks for the hello and yes I will have to pull my finger out and get some photos on the site. The exhaust system arrived this week, though with some minor problems as you can see. I spoke with Suzuki today and should be sorted out soon. I will keep the system even though its for the 84 model as there are now no complete systems for the 82 in Suzuki stock. The only change is the header flanges and bolts are black chrome and not the alloy finish of the 82, I can live with that to have a new original system. Catch ya later, cheers.
 
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Hi psyguy glad to hear Bruno is doing well. Did you polish the wheels and forks before powder coating and if so how did the finish turn out once coated? I have to do my forks and wheels and had planned to go with POR 15 polished alloy system of coatings however, best to ask about other ways to do it befor the final D. Cheers mate.
 
Shin-Ken 1074 said:
Hi psyguy glad to hear Bruno is doing well. Did you polish the wheels and forks before powder coating and if so how did the finish turn out once coated? I have to do my forks and wheels and had planned to go with POR 15 polished alloy system of coatings however, best to ask about other ways to do it befor the final D. Cheers mate.
Click to expand...

i opted for powdercoating the whole wheels not just the originally painted parts
the wheels lost that oem period-correct look with the polished edge but look awesome otherwise
no more polishing and no more dirt sticking to the wheels (as they are clear-coated as well)

not sure what por15 product you have in mind
i had the engine side covers polished and then used por15 two-pack clear coat, unfortunately the aloy started coroding underneath the clear coat and doesnt look that good from close up
eventually, i'd have those powdercoated as well, to a satin-chrome-like finish... again - maintenance free is what i'm after these days
sorry, no pickies yet ...
oh yes, did my forks too, look great :-D
 
Planning to use POR15 Marine Clean - Metal Ready - AP-120 prep for polished aluminium and Glisten PC clear coat as finish. I have a buffer and sisal cleaner and swan cotton polish mops to do the alloy work, plan is to buff and polish: side cases, clip-ons, fork tubes, carb caps and bowls. Also to delace both rims polish the hubs and rims coat with POR 15 as above and have stainless steel spokes fitted for the rebuild. Everything that is black to be satin black powder coated and all the silver components in 13L from PPG. Engine to be painted with POR15 aluminium engine finish.

Thanks for the tip on clear powder coat, cheers.
 
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Shin-Ken 1074 said:
Planning to use POR15 Marine Clean - Metal Ready - AP-120 prep for polished aluminium and Glisten PC clear coat as finish.
Click to expand...

yup, that's exactly what i used on the engine cases and followed the instructions to the last word (cleaning, prep and all)
sadly, as i said, the parts started oxidising underneath the clear coat
it looks as if there are slight darker color "cracks" being formed all over the surface, something like a web (well, exactly like what you get when you leave the alu finish unprotected)
this started happening after only a few months and now that 18 months have passed since i've done it, it already looks like it needs attention again - still shiny from the distance but from a meter or so away you can clearly see the oxide

that's why i went with powdercoating on other parts


btw, thinking back, the oem finish was a very thin coat of clear laquer and i doubt that it was a two-pot as it would come off very easily - so i think it was never intended to be a long lasting finish, perhaps more just something that would keep the parts shiny while the bike was at the dealer's showroom...
 
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Well that doesn't sound like a finish I want on my baby. I wonder if the clear coat breaks down with engine heat? The factory clear coat is normally very tough so there must be a product out there that can do the job, just have to find it, and maybe Atlantis while Iam at it. Thanks for the info on the POR15, I'll check on how the clear powder coat is holding up in a few weeks/months, cheers.
 
sorry if i wasnt clear...

the glisten pc clear coat itself is a great product
i had the rest of the engine done as well (not just the side covers) and it takes the heat/cold cycles very well - it did go yellow-ish around the sparkplugs, but otherwise looks very good, hard as a rock and no cracks, peeling, etc

the problem i think is in the quality of the alu aloy


just another thought... you may get a longer lasting finish if you go for a slightly satin look - i had the covers polished to a mirror finish
the rest of the cases were vapour-blasted to a satin finish and clear-coated and they still look very ok

Shin-Ken 1074 said:
Well that doesn't sound like a finish I want on my baby. I wonder if the clear coat breaks down with engine heat? The factory clear coat is normally very tough so there must be a product out there that can do the job, just have to find it, and maybe Atlantis while Iam at it. Thanks for the info on the POR15, I'll check on how the clear powder coat is holding up in a few weeks/months, cheers.
Click to expand...
 
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Thanks for the follow up, I think your right about the block and head alloy not coming up like the side cases with a clear finish. I had planned to do the block, head and tappet cover with the aluminium paint by PPG (not the clear coat) as Suzuki no longer list their engine paint being available. So looks like the Glisten PC is still a goer for the side covers, clip-ons, forks and rims/hubs. I will test the PPG on the oil filter case next week to see if it is a close match to the existing block finish. If you think the cases are best not fully polished before clear what do you think would be a better finish, 800, 1000 or 1200 wet and dry? Cheers.
 
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