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Overheat now no oil pressure

  • Thread starter Thread starter gazingwa
  • Start date Start date
Any ideas what would cause the cam tensioner to kick out like that? it doesn't seem to be broken but the black knob shouldn't be able to reach the sender should it? this really scares me. I also need a new knob, it is shot where can i get one?
 
no, it is already apart, to late for pictures. I think it melted off of the tensioner shaft to sag a little down to the sender. This makes me worry about the internals of the engine. I shut it down as soon as the pressure dropped though, what are my chances of getting out cheap?
 
The plugs aren't white or bubbled, the valve clearances are still good, the cams aren't discollored or scored, the exhaust isn't blue. should i be worried? or should i just wait until i get my tensioner parts and boot o-rings in the mail and pray?
 
gazingwa said:
The plugs aren't white or bubbled, the valve clearances are still good, the cams aren't discollored or scored, the exhaust isn't blue. should i be worried? or should i just wait until i get my tensioner parts and boot o-rings in the mail and pray?
Click to expand...

What exactly melted, isn't the tensioner all metal on your model?
 
there is a plastic knob at the end of it, it deformed a bit which let it touch the pressure sender and melt an indentation. I plan on replacing it with a large flat washer and drilling a small hole fot the spring. any thoughts?
 
gazingwa said:
there is a plastic knob at the end of it, it deformed a bit which let it touch the pressure sender and melt an indentation. I plan on replacing it with a large flat washer and drilling a small hole fot the spring. any thoughts?
Click to expand...

That sounds pretty hot.
I bet the tensioner parts inside the engine are some kind of plastic that withstands heat well, hopefully they are OK.

Nothing else inside that would melt away unless you got hot enough to start melting metal...
 
Well, the only thing i'm woried about is the pisotn rings. i'm sure the plastic on that adjuster wasn't mixed to handle very high heats.

I guess the best thing to do would be put it back together and do a compression test.
 
gazingwa said:
Well, the only thing i'm woried about is the pisotn rings. i'm sure the plastic on that adjuster wasn't mixed to handle very high heats.

I guess the best thing to do would be put it back together and do a compression test.
Click to expand...

Don't think you would hurt them if it didn't seize, it's not like you were running it hard at the time. Rings are pretty tough.
Compression test is a great place to start.
 
Thats what i'm hoping, we'll find out in a week when my parts come in. Thanks for the reassurance, i have a tendancy to overeact about things like this.

for example, last week i was sure my well was going dry..... it was just a bad fitting underground.
 
tkent02 said:
That sounds pretty hot.
I bet the tensioner parts inside the engine are some kind of plastic that withstands heat well, hopefully they are OK.

Nothing else inside that would melt away unless you got hot enough to start melting metal...
Click to expand...

What about the chain guide parts? They are designed to take the heat but that engine must have gotten pretty close to the absolute limit. Nothing much to do other than try to fix the tensioner and see what happens with the engine. Doubt it's going to hurt itself any more at this point.
 
well, it didn't fry any of the seals in the tensioner (they have always weeped a bit) They were all still in place and didn't fall apart when i pulled it.
 
I would love to see a pic of this. I have an extra tensioner off my 1100. Let me know if you want it.
 
Well....

Here is a picture of the knob you can see the corner imprint of the metal casing on the sender.

100_1061.jpg


This is of it and the piece that cracked off when i was disasembling it.

100_1062.jpg


This is about how it was sitting on the tensioner assembly when i pulled it apart.

100_1063.jpg
 
Different tensioner than my 1100. So the nut came off the knob it popped off. I'd make sure you didn't jump any teeth on the cam chain. See if anyone here has an extra one in the parts wanted section.
 
no, the nut was still there, the plastic just got soft and it slouched enough to touch the sender

I don't need any parts, i'm just going to use a large washer and drill a hole in it. I've seen it done before. I'll use that until i can get down to summerset cycle (local graveyard with tons of GS parts)

forgive me but how do i check the cam timing on this bike? (a link to the proper thread will do)
 
Take off the valve cover and the igniton cover. Point the ignition trigger at 1&4 with the timing marks at TDC. Make sure the cam end notches are pointing in. There is an arrow on the exhaust cam sprocket marked #1 and it should be pointing at the top of the head exactly where the valve cover gasket sits. On the same sprocket there is a #2 with an arrow pointing about straight up. On the intake cam sprocket there is a #3 mark with an arrow. Count the pins from 2 to 3 including the pins directly above the arrows. There should be twenty.
 
Update and a thank you to ALL!!!!!


These numbers tell the whole story
1 2 3 4
Cold 145 121 125 140
Warm 150 135 135 150

All i had to do was rebuild the cam tensioner.

By the way, realgasket was the best $30 i've ever spent, i knicked my old one while reinstalling and this one seals easier and is all around a good product.

this is gonna be a fun weekend of riding, i've been jonsing for so long. nice to get my garage back.
 
glad it turned out with a happy ending, I bet you were sweating :-D
 
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