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Overheating issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter immolate5
  • Start date Start date
I

immolate5

Guest
Hey guys this is my first post here. I did a search but I did not find a problem like mine.

I have a 1983 gs550e. The other day I was riding and all of a sudden the engine quit, didn't sputter or anything just quit. It would not start again until it had cooled down.

I think it's electrical because mechanically the engine runs and sounds great until about 5 minuets after starting it just dies. I poked around the wires but could not find anything wrong really. I had replaced the RR about a year ago and I did the voltage tests and the charging/electrical system is giving me the correct readings.

I'm so confused :cry:
 
question.. have you tried running it with the petcock in the PRI position? if the float bowls are filling, it'd take a bit for them to empty.. petcock might not be working properly. also try it with the gas cap off. only things i can think of off the top of my head. i'm sure someone with more knowledge will answer shortly.
 
immolate5 said:
Hey guys this is my first post here. I did a search but I did not find a problem like mine.

I have a 1983 gs550e. The other day I was riding and all of a sudden the engine quit, didn't sputter or anything just quit. It would not start again until it had cooled down.

I think it's electrical because mechanically the engine runs and sounds great until about 5 minuets after starting it just dies. I poked around the wires but could not find anything wrong really. I had replaced the RR about a year ago and I did the voltage tests and the charging/electrical system is giving me the correct readings.

I'm so confused :cry:
Click to expand...

Had a similar problem with my 750 some time back. Came to a stop light, sitting there waiting for the light to change, and it just died. Started again after about 15 minutes. Drove a couple of miles and it happened again.

Turned out to be the main fuse. It was one of those glass ones. The cap on one end had mechanically disconnected from the glass tube and from the fuse wire, but it was still making contact. As it heated up, the contact broke. As it cooled, it re-connected.
 
tomm said:
Had a similar problem with my 750 some time back. Came to a stop light, sitting there waiting for the light to change, and it just died. Started again after about 15 minutes. Drove a couple of miles and it happened again.

Turned out to be the main fuse. It was one of those glass ones. The cap on one end had mechanically disconnected from the glass tube and from the fuse wire, but it was still making contact. As it heated up, the contact broke. As it cooled, it re-connected.
Click to expand...
good call.. and easy to check. while you are at it, if that is the culprit, check out the tips and tricks section, there is a thread about replacing the older style glass fuse blocks with blade connection fuse blocks.
 
tomm said:
Had a similar problem with my 750 some time back. Came to a stop light, sitting there waiting for the light to change, and it just died. Started again after about 15 minutes. Drove a couple of miles and it happened again.

Turned out to be the main fuse. It was one of those glass ones. The cap on one end had mechanically disconnected from the glass tube and from the fuse wire, but it was still making contact. As it heated up, the contact broke. As it cooled, it re-connected.
Click to expand...

Hm... good suggestion! I don't have the glass ones, I got the plastic blade ones. But I will check it, I did a quick lookover and none of them looked broken but I'll swap some of them out with new ones.
 
Dave8338 said:
Coils (if they are on their way out) are known to cause problems when they heat up.
Click to expand...

Ah ok, didn't think about that one.

Anyone know of a good way to test if my coils are going bad?

Also thanks for the help guys!
 
Gas cap

Gas cap

Be sure to check to see if it's your gas cap vent!!! That sounds to me like a real possibility. Run it until it dies and then release your gas cap. If it makes a "Swoooosh" sound, you've got it figured out....and it will start immediately. By the way, I think the other suggestions are good ones, too.
 
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Just went outside and ran it for about 7 minutes, and it died and wouldn't restart.

Took the gas cap off and there was no "swoosh", also could not get the petcock to turn to PRI...I didn't want to force it and possibibly break it.

After I have my lunch and it has cooled down, I'll go try it again and this time check the fuses. I still think it's an electrical problem of some sort.
 
Petcock

Petcock

Well, now, I'm leaning towards seuadr's idea....I would suspect it's the petcock. Regardless, you need to find why you can't get it into the prime position. I'd do that first, then check to see how much flow you're getting.
 
Get an extra spark plug, when it quits hook up the spare plug & check for spark!!!
 
chuckycheese said:
Well, now, I'm leaning towards seuadr's idea....I would suspect it's the petcock. Regardless, you need to find why you can't get it into the prime position. I'd do that first, then check to see how much flow you're getting.
Click to expand...

The petcock was just stuck I got it into PRI and left the gas cap off and it ran for about 5-6 min then quit again.

After I let it cool down for a few hours I'll do a check on the signal generator. I have the Clymer service manual so that's what i'm following. I'll post results soon.
 
Signal Generator Test Results

Engine Cold - Ohm Meeter Readings

Brown and Black/White - 0.367 ohms
Green and Black/White - 0.360 ohms

Started Engine ran until it shut off for about 5ish minuets.

Engine Hot - OHm Meeter Readings

Brown and Black/White - 0.395 ohms
Green and Black/White - Infienty ohms

Clymer Manual says these readings should be 250 - 500 ohms

This clearly says the Signal Generator is bad...what do you guys think?

But why would the engine start and run cold with the readings so far off?
 
How does "overheating" apply to this issue ?? Does the engine get
hot where there is a "overtemp" switch and cuts of the electrical ??

Check the fuel delivery by replacing the black gas line with a clear
8mm hose so you can monitor the fuel delivery to the carb bowls.
When it dies, pull the boots from each spark plug and use a spare
plug and place against the engine head. Fire it up and see if it will
spark. Note cylinders 1 and 3 run on the same coil, and viceversa
with cylinders 2 and 4.

Check the compression to see if the results are at or over 120-125psi,
and they are within 25psi of each other. Must have all three to run correctly. No spark is somewhere electrical, and can dig deeper into
this area. Fuel delivery if sufficient are carb issues. And engine compression is all mechanical. Valves, rings, etc.....

KT :-D\\:D/
 
jadesystem said:
When it dies, pull the boots from each spark plug and use a spare
plug and place against the engine head. Fire it up and see if it will
spark. Note cylinders 1 and 3 run on the same coil, and viceversa
with cylinders 2 and 4.
Click to expand...

When the engine is hot I pulled the boot and put a spare plug in aginst the head and there is no spark.

I'm pretty sure it's the signal generator now.

I took off the cover and whenever it died I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner (wich is really really cold when it comes out) where the two red boxes are in the picture

img0261xe6.jpg



Instantally it started right up. I tried this three times with the same exact results...
 
Last edited:
Congratulations. It sounds like you have it nailed. Good example of how to methodically go through different possibilities to troubleshoot a problem, each time narrowing it down it a little further.
Might just make sure you don't have any loose or broken wires in that area before you actually spring for a replacement signal generator.
 
immolate5 said:
Brown and Black/White - 0.367 ohms
Green and Black/White - 0.360 ohms

Engine Hot - OHm Meeter Readings

Brown and Black/White - 0.395 ohms
Green and Black/White - Infienty ohms

Clymer Manual says these readings should be 250 - 500 ohms

This clearly says the Signal Generator is bad...what do you guys think?

But why would the engine start and run cold with the readings so far off?
Click to expand...
Take another look at the display on your meter. Is there any chance that it says 0.367k ohms? That would indicate 367 ohms, right in the middle of the desired range. Look carefully, that "k" might be real small, in the corner of the display. 8-[

.
 
tomm said:
Congratulations. It sounds like you have it nailed. Good example of how to methodically go through different possibilities to troubleshoot a problem, each time narrowing it down it a little further.
Might just make sure you don't have any loose or broken wires in that area before you actually spring for a replacement signal generator.
Click to expand...

Thanks! You guys have been awesome in helping me.

All of the wires around the area have been visually inspected and look ok, I'm going to replace some of them.

Any suggestions on a new signal generator? Is there one thats an after market that's better than the OEM? Should I get a used one from a salvage yard? Does it have to be from the exact year and make ('83 gs550e) of my bike?
 
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