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Paint Guns

  • Thread starter Thread starter jlmoulto
  • Start date Start date
J

jlmoulto

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So, I am wondering about purchasing a spray gun to paint my bike, amongst other small projects (not looking to paint a car or anything). Problem is I have a really small compressor that only provide for 4.2CFM. One of those 1 1/2 hp compressors that come with the brad nailer compressor kit.

I found these guns and wondered if it could handle jobs like painting a gas tank, etc while providing a decent finish. The CFM is like 2.8. Anyone with expertise that could help...Note I am pretty green with painting equipment.

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3685

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1432

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5898
 
I have got to figure that anything is better than a rattle can job But I am not sure what you need. I am also particularly interested because I have a whole lot of plastic to paint on my kat.
 
Re: Paint Guns

I have various spray guns and I've found that an 8 oz. cup detail gun works best for small things such as motorcycle tanks. With the multi part, catalyzed automotive paints, you will only need a quarter tohalf fan pattern and about half the paint spray volume the gun is capable of and a pressure of 25-30 psi. Your small compressor should be able to handle that without any problem. You can get a detail gun at any Home Depot or Lowes for about $30.

Earl

jlmoulto said:
So, I am wondering about purchasing a spray gun to paint my bike, amongst other small projects (not looking to paint a car or anything). Problem is I have a really small compressor that only provide for 4.2CFM. One of those 1 1/2 hp compressors that come with the brad nailer compressor kit.

I found these guns and wondered if it could handle jobs like painting a gas tank, etc while providing a decent finish. The CFM is like 2.8. Anyone with expertise that could help...Note I am pretty green with painting equipment.

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?ageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3685

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1432

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5898
Click to expand...
 
I recently went to a real deal paint shop for some 3 part paint to do brake calipers, master cyl- stuff that get's real nasty with chemicals and I've had bad luck with rattle cans on. The paint shop sold me a small spray bottle with these little canisters (chargers) that draw right off a small glass jar. You can even use the jar itself to mix your paint/ reducer and hardener in. I asked them if this was appropriate for my $80 in paint supplys, they said, "Heck, we'll use those to paint entire body panels in the shop- works as good as any paint gun I've used!" I asked if it was possible to paint the whole bike with one- they said of course.
 
I believe what you're referring to is a "Pre-Val". Its a cannister of compressed gas the scres onto a glass jar that holds the paint and has a nozzle like a spray can. It will do about the same quality job as a spray can. It doesnt compare to the paint surface you can achieve with a detail spray gun and compressor. But then, without some practice :-), the mess you can achieve with a spray gun exceeds that possible with a spray can. LOL

Earl


Jethro said:
I recently went to a real deal paint shop for some 3 part paint to do brake calipers, master cyl- stuff that get's real nasty with chemicals and I've had bad luck with rattle cans on. The paint shop sold me a small spray bottle with these little canisters (chargers) that draw right off a small glass jar. You can even use the jar itself to mix your paint/ reducer and hardener in. I asked them if this was appropriate for my $80 in paint supplys, they said, "Heck, we'll use those to paint entire body panels in the shop- works as good as any paint gun I've used!" I asked if it was possible to paint the whole bike with one- they sai

d of course.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Earl.

Only problem around here is that I may have to order it in, however no big deal really...cost will be quite low to ship I am sure.

One thing I noticed about that gun is that the grip seems weird. Perhaps, it is the picture, but I am trying to get my head around gripping and using the trigger. I have mental gymnastic pictures and if you could see me, you would know that was not possible!!!
 
The underside of the housing rests on top of your hand between your thumb and finger. The trigger blade (on top of the gun) is pressed with your 1st finger. (Its much more relaxing to use than the large guns with pistol grips)
Its pretty much like holding a big pencil. :-)

Earl


jlmoulto said:
Thanks Earl.

Only problem around here is that I may have to order it in, however no big deal really...cost will be quite low to ship I am sure.

One thing I noticed about that gun is that the grip seems weird. Perhaps, it is the picture, but I am trying to get my head around gripping and using the trigger. I have mental gymnastic pictures and if you could see me, you would know that was not possible!!!
Click to expand...
 
Ah...so if I have this right, I don't use the "ring" on top of the gun.

So, hopefully only one last question. I assume this gun can apply most car finishes including flake?
 
the ring is for hanging it up. :-)

Yep, spray metallics also. It doesnt have an auto agitator, so you periodotically have to shake the gun a bit to keep the particles suspended.

Earl

jlmoulto said:
Ah...so if I have this right, I don't use the "ring" on top of the gun.

So, hopefully only one last question. I assume this gun can apply most car finishes including flake?
Click to expand...
 
I would prefer the gravity feed cup. LESS paint waste. Any paint gun will out do a spray can
 
According to the ad, it flows 2.5 cfm @ 90 psi. Then it should flow 3.75 cfm @ 45 psi and 7.5 cfm @ 30 psi. The detail gun will need 30 psi and 3 to 4 cfm. You should be just fine.

If its very humid where you are, you might want to look into getting an inline water separater/filter to keep water mist out of the spray.

Earl


jlmoulto said:
So to be certain before I order, this is my compressor...when I said small, I meant small!

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5820
Click to expand...
 
The one thing I dont like about the gravity feed guns is you cant crawl under something and spray up. :-) They do use a little less paint though for a cycle tank, it probably isnt a consideration.

Earl

SqDancerLynn1 said:
I would prefer the gravity feed cup. LESS paint waste. Any paint gun will out do a spray can
Click to expand...
 
Ditto on the detail gun. The water seperator will be a must. The small compressor will cycle alot and pick up moisture for sure. Harbour Freight has all the items you need. For painting metalic, add a couple large ball bearings into the cup to help mix things up. 1/4" to 3/8", or a couple of stainless nuts. I've even done some small touch up work with an airbrush. Have fun.

Chris
 
One thing I found out with the cheaper spray guns is they do not atomize the paint well. I've used them, till my son bought me a $400 gun and you cannot believe how beautiful that gun lays the paint down. But I realize that is probably not an option. Next best thing is to use a base coat clear coat system. Apply the color and then coat with 4 coats of clear. This way, if you end up with a lot of orange peel or dust or whatever, you can sand and buff the finish to like perfect. Buffing will be hard on small pieces though unless you get one of those little mini buffers. And, with a full size buffer a gas tank will take off like a rocket if you catch and edge unless it is secured to something like a piece of 4X4 clamped in a vise. If you are going to do a real urethane or base coat clear coat job go and price the materials first. You will find they are super expensive! By the time you get filler and spot putty and primer and color and clear and buffing compound etc. you will have spent a fortune. Some of these things are 1 qt minimum. It may be almost the same price to have a body shop do it. It costs me over $1000 for just the materials to do a car, $150 to do a bike frame. (But you will have enough left over to do 2 more.)

If you do decide to do it yourself, get something called a "last chance filter" or a "gumball filter', It screws right on to the gun where the hose connects and will absorb any oil or water you may have in your air lines. This is a must!

edit: This is my kids car I did. http://www.geocities.com/thursday613/accord.html
 
Red, the most expensive color at the paint store. Nice job. Acrylic enamel, gloss hardener, and reducer is cheaper. The results can be very good also. Laquer sux, I've never had good luck with it.

Chris
 
Paint is expensive I remember paying $150 for a gallon of
Acrylic urethane enamal 10 years ago, & like $60 gal for DP40 primer
UV protectant More to it than slapping some Home Depot paint on the wall at home
 
nice to know the small compressor will work even though I have others to borrow. and the paint prices suck considering I have to want the 3 color job on my sportbike :cry:
 
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