Paint Stripped my GS1000 Side Covers . . . Stupid mistake

[srsupertrap]

This wasn't a thread I wanted to start or share but I am in the process of repainting my GS. After completly striping down the GS1000 gas tank yesterday (it looks like it has been hot tanked ), I decided to use Klean Strip KS-3 Premium Stripper to strip my GS1000 side covers since I had the bike repainted 20 years ago I figured it would be a good idea to start afresh. I had previously sanded down all the plastic parts but someone mentioned you could strip the ABS plastic if you removed the stripper once it started bubbling. Well I poured the KS-3 goup on both side covers (why both ?) and their fate was sealed. Instead of the blue Imron paint lifting it started to craze. I tried scrapping the goop off with the plastic putty knife and you guessed it the ABS had softened and the Imron paint & ABS became one geletanious gooey mess. If you have ever walked through a injection molding shop that's the smell my poor GS side covers was giving off. Tried sanding them with 60 grit but that quickly clogged the sand paper.

Should have used the Search or my own commom sense. In my defense, I didn't strip em back in the 80's. I just checked Carolina Cycle and they retail for $59 each and probably get them both shipped for $130 but I have been unemployed since January of this year. So if a fellow GSer has a clean, paintable set of 78-80 GS1000E side covers please let me know. I am in the market . . .

 

[Zooks]

I posted about this just a few days ago in another thread. Paint stripper is usually neutralised in water. Give them a good clean in some soapy water and leave them sit for a few days to dry out and for any remaining stripper chemicals to leach out. You should (might) find that they go hard again and you can sand them flat, 'bondo' them and repaint them. This is a very common mistake with plastic parts (usually car bumpers) and I have saved 'god knows how many' pieces in the past. I was an auto body repairer in the past (for many years).

People don't realise that paint is essentially plastic and that is exactly what stripper is designed to 'melt'.

 

[srsupertrap]

I posted about this just a few days ago in another thread. Paint stripper is usually neutralised in water. Give them a good clean in some soapy water and leave them sit for a few days to dry out and for any remaining stripper chemicals to leach out. You should (might) find that they go hard again and you can sand them flat, 'bondo' them and repaint them.

Well I got interested and after a hour of block & hand sanding with #60 sandpaper one side panel has most of the gouges removed but the contours & radius at the edge of the panel are still rough and may never pass close inspection. I am estimating that side cover requires several hours before it reaches a #320 finish and is ready for primer.

This is a very common mistake with plastic parts (usually car bumpers) and I have saved 'god knows how many' pieces in the past. I was an auto body repairer in the past (for many years).

Zooks,
Yeah I blew it, I should have done a test on the seat trim piece where it wouldn't show. Too bad you don't live down the street! Again if anyone has a set of GS1000 side covers that don't require a resurrection to be restored please let me know.

Steve

 

[Cromagnum]

I was going to have a stab at the same thing tommorow...thanks for the heads up....my missus will kill me if i spend more money on motorcycles (that and i see the hot water systewm is about to die). Thanks for sharing.

 

[Big T]

Well I got interested and after a hour of block & hand sanding with #60 sandpaper one side panel has most of the gouges removed but the contours & radius at the edge of the panel are still rough and may never pass close inspection. I am estimating that side cover requires several hours before it reaches a #320 finish and is ready for primer.



Zooks,
Yeah I blew it, I should have done a test on the seat trim piece where it wouldn't show. Too bad you don't live down the street! Again if anyone has a set of GS1000 side covers that don't require a resurrection to be restored please let me know.

Steve

Check the For Sale section and Ebay - there's been a bunch for sale lately

 

[nvr2old]

Chances are, you can still repair the side covers for less then the cost of replacing them. Even replacing them with used ones will still require everything that's necessary for repainting. As mentioned, you can get all your contours back with plastic body filler. It'll stick to the side cover material just fine. I would do it right over a 60 grit sanded surface so it has the tooth. Put a skim coat of filler over the entire area. Re-shape and sand it down with 80 grit, then spray a high-fill primer, available in a spray can. 320 is too fine for the first prime. Let it dry, block sand it with 180, primer again, then get to 320-400 after that. It'll take a few hours, sure, but it's a very affordable, and do-able repair.

 

[srsupertrap]

Big T, nvr2old atb1998,
Thanks for the advice, offer & information all excellent ideas & sources but I decided to spring for a OEM set from Carolina Cycle ($112 for the pair) since I am replacing the gas tank petcock & fuel sending unit gaskets for the project. I was planning on painting this weekend. Here is a pic of the butchered covers.

I have been hanging around the AutoBodyForum picking the brains of those gents ( highly recommended ) http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php. I never knew there was three primers . I plan on sanding these down further and then shoot them with Omni Epoxy Primer. Should cover the sins and then I will sell them on Fleabay

Wrong pic