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parts dip 20 min,2hour,12hour????

  • Thread starter Thread starter buckeyemike
  • Start date Start date
B

buckeyemike

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opinions? can says 20 min, I think I have seen 2hours and most say 8-12 hours on previous posts. Any suggestions just dunked two carbs and waiting.
 
Personal experience? OK.

My first set of carbs, I knew the bike had not been run for over a year and had not been stored properly, so I followed the maximum recommended by the label on the can: 30 minutes. Put the carbs back on the bike, feeling all proud for doing the job and not having any parts left over. Situation was NOT resolved. OK, says I, I'll show it who's boss. I dunked them again, this time for two hours. Put the carbs on the bike again and smirked again as I tried to start the bike. Still would not work. This time I let it all hang out. I dipped each carb for about 23 hours. Just enough time to remove the carb from the dip, re-assemble it, then get the next carb wet. Next night, I did it again. That was three years ago, those carbs are still doing very nicely, thank you very much.

Now, I base the time on how long it has been since the bike has run properly. Just because it has run recently does not mean it was proper, so I tend to overdo the carb-dip time. You know? I have not had any 'repeat offenders' with this policy. After removing the carbs from 'the dip' I also use spray carb cleaner and compressed air, along with a strand of copper wire to poke through all the jet holes. The dip softens everything up, the copper wire moves it around, then the spray flushes it away. Install new o-rings from cycleorings.com and you will be good to go.

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If you leave the carb in the dip for a long time it tends to turn the metal dark which to me is a sign you left it too long. Over night seems about right most of the time unless the carbs are particularly dirty.
 
one carb per day worked for me on carbs that had set for about 10 years. i used gunk brand dip.
 
I've dipped two separate sets of carbs. The first was with a generic dip (cannot remember brand) and the next was with Gunk.

The first time, I did one per day. Worked great and resolved all my problems.

The second time I decided to do the same thing, but I got lazy... Ended up leaving one in for two days and one in for two and a half. Those, next to the ones dipped for one day, look and perform the same. I think the gunk can only do so much...

What I did notice though was that the last ones needed more time as the first ones saturated the solution and it didn't work as well. I would say, though you may argue, leave them in until they are clean. 24 hours is great and will do the job!
 
I usually dip around an hour. Then blow out all the ports with carb cleaner.
The carb cleaning series covers all the ports well.
 
I just leave the carbs and parts in the dip for 24 hours. Doesnt seem to hurt anything.

Earl
 
Well, if they look like this, you might want to leave them in there a while....


100_0640.jpg
 
my way

my way

Out here we can not buy the dip chemical, all we can get is a spray can of carb cleaner. I discovered some years ago, by accident a solution. I fill a 20litre bucket with water, add about a cup of a product called T36, which is a degreaser, also used for truck washing. drop the whole complete rack of carbs in. I'll leave them in for at least a week, maybe 2 then remove them. drain the water out, strip and blow out the carbs and they are always immaculately clean, works a treat. Also works without the T36, but takes longer, up to a couple of months but plain water, if given enough time, will do it.
This photo shows the results of a 2 week soak. Excuse the top caps, I did not have the time to repaint them, that's the next job.
 
I need to do that to the carbs on my gs650. The bike has been sitting too long. Do you need to remove everythng from the carbs, if so does that include the diaphrams. I have rebuild kits for them as I am going to rebuild them.
 
dstamour said:
I need to do that to the carbs on my gs650. The bike has been sitting too long. Do you need to remove everythng from the carbs, if so does that include the diaphrams. I have rebuild kits for them as I am going to rebuild them.
Click to expand...
Yes, you have to remove everything from the carbs, except the throttle shaft. Follow the carb rebuild series and you should be good. Oh, forget the carb rebuild kits unless you have some brass parts that are damaged. The jets are often not quite the right size and you don't get nearly enough o-rings to do the job properly. You will be far better off getting o-ring kits for the carbs and intake boots (as well as new stainless bolts for the intake tubes) from forum member Robert Barr at Cycle o-rings.com.

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If you use Berrymans, about over night is about right. If your cleaner is 5 years old, or more, it will take more time. Heck if it's more than 5 years old...get a new can of cleaner. Cast engine blocks cleanup real well in Tide detergent, don't think I would soak carbs in it though.
 
jonshep said:
If you use Berrymans, about over night is about right. If your cleaner is 5 years old, or more, it will take more time. Heck if it's more than 5 years old...get a new can of cleaner. Cast engine blocks cleanup real well in Tide detergent, don't think I would soak carbs in it though.
Click to expand...

Is that the liquid or the granulated? Does the scent make a difference? Make your GS smell like lavender? Lol! I'll have to try this on the 1000 as I'm not too fond of the solvent degreaser I've used before. Tide is cheap in comparison, and smells a lot better.
 
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