performance camshafts

[timebombprod]

i have been able to source an place that they could make a set of performance camshafts for me, I'm already doing a big bore kit on the bike going from 670cc to 740cc and I'm honestly thinking about going all out on this bike, yes i want to go all out on a shaft drive 650. I'm wondering how much of an increase in power does a set of performance camshafts usually make, and what's the best style to go for, I'm all about peak horsepower.

also I'm wondering what is the weakest link on the motor if these things were to be done on the bike, should I get anything stress tested or whatever procedures there are to ensure the motor will be okay?

 

[GregT]

i have been able to source an place that they could make a set of performance camshafts for me, I'm already doing a big bore kit on the bike going from 670cc to 740cc and I'm honestly thinking about going all out on this bike, yes i want to go all out on a shaft drive 650. I'm wondering how much of an increase in power does a set of performance camshafts usually make, and what's the best style to go for, I'm all about peak horsepower.

also I'm wondering what is the weakest link on the motor if these things were to be done on the bike, should I get anything stress tested or whatever procedures there are to ensure the motor will be okay?

The clutch basket is the weak link - even on shafties. Megacycle used to list cams for the 550. Any of their grinds would be suitable. Use 110 degree lobe centers inlet and exhaust.

 

[zed1015]

For the road you want around .410" lift and 110LC fast road/race grind.
You will also need slotted cam sprockets to be able to dial them in correctly and allow for deck height variences.
These will also enable you to open or close the LC's to move peak power up or down the rev range.
Close them ( 109-107 etc) to move the power up or open them for more bottom end.
Generally 110 is the widest you would tend to go for normally aspirated with 112-114 for turbo use.

 

[Guest]

Have you considered what you will do about gearing, bearing in mind the limitations of shaft drive.

 

[Rob S.]

The more you go "all out" on the cam, the less of a well behaved/commuter personality it will have. The power zone will get smaller and higher, and the idle and low end torque and power will suffer. The increase in displacement will somewhat offset this.

 

[timebombprod]

cams wont be changed at all that idea was out the door a long time ago now, this bike will be enough fun for what its going to be, better to just build a 1000 or something. if this was similar to a 600 of today and was as modifiable it would possibly be a different story.

the two things i could do for the bike that isnt seriously custom is using 850 top end with 650 bottom end or 1000 top end but it would only be a 963, if i were to do more these are really the only two realistic option that i know of considering the shaft drive, i have no clue if a 1000 shafty would go on this, did the 1000g ever have a shaft drive anyways? lol.

after this itll be a classic gsxr750, or 1000, or a modern enough gsxr 600 to 750, i know the k5 gsxr 1000 is the one with the amazing frame geometry but i have no clue if it was a frame used for a 750, i dont really want a liter bike unless its as old as my 650.

im planning for a bike fest 30 minutes south from me, its the first or second week of october, im not lying when im saying the only reason this bike isnt together is because of cleaning the motor, but it is also me being extremely lazy with it, i mean how long can you work on one build that isnt a heavily modified machine lol, it will look really nice when it is finished though ive mocked it up and im excited for the look. the cases are all done aswell as my final drive, its the crankcase, walls, and head that need to still be done but they dont necessarily have to be as good.