• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Petcock spring and base gasket questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter scottsgs
  • Start date Start date
S

scottsgs

Guest
Hi all,

First questions is; has anyone had to make a replacement spring for the petcock on a GS850G? I some how lost mine when I took the damn thing apart. I have not been able to find a replacement anywhere.

Second question; does anyone have any tips for me to make the 3rd base gasket install more of a success? I plan on checking the surfaces very carefully this time. I plan on torquing the head bolts in increments of 3ft\lbs starting at 27 and ending at 33. Does oil make the base gasket swell?

Thanks,
Scott
 
Never had to make a spring, I guess I have just been lucky enough to not lose one.


scottsgs said:
I plan on torquing the head bolts in increments of 3ft\lbs starting at 27 and ending at 33.
Click to expand...
Please change your plans. :pray:

The manual calls for tightening to 27, so start with 15 or 18, then increase to 27.
If you start at 27 and go to 33, you will be over-torquing the head. :eek:

.
 
Steve said:
Never had to make a spring, I guess I have just been lucky enough to not lose one.



Please change your plans. :pray:

The manual calls for tightening to 27, so start with 15 or 18, then increase to 27.
If you start at 27 and go to 33, you will be over-torquing the head. :eek:

.
Click to expand...

...and run the risk of stretching a bolt or three OR pull a few threads right out of the block! :eek: :o
 
my Clymer manual has a section of updates in the back. It says 25-29lb/ft for the cylinder head nuts.

Scott
 
So, 27 is the mid point. Torque wrenches are approximate and you really don't want, or need to over torgue bolts.
 
Scott,

My petcock spring broke. I went out to the hardware store and bought a spring that looked about the same as what I had. Just keep in mind that you want the spring to be stiff enough to close the petcock and not so stiff that the vacuum can not open the petcock. I got a spring that was too stiff so fuel only flowed on prime. I guess I will have to continue playing around with it. If you find anything let me know.
 
Re: torque: torque is actually very specific. However, it relies on two things. First is cleanliness. Second is technique. When a torque is described as say #27, what this means is that the surfaces being connected are clean and that they mate accurately. (no old gasket, paint, dirt, rough edges from gouging etc.) 'Surfaces' does not only mean the flat parts you think you're joining. It also (more importantly) means the internal threads, the bottom of the bolt holes, and the threads of the bolts. When one puts a torque wrench on a bolt, tightens in the correct pattern, and pays attention, what one is feeling for is the point at which, first, the surfaces connect with the gasket, and second, when the external thread on each bolt begins to stretch against the cam of the internal thread.
It is all very simple if things are clean. If things are not perfectly clean and new, though, pay attention. Tighten it to where you think it is right, then back it off a bit, and run through the pattern again. You are compressing many things at one time with a head. Some things take time to attenuate the new tensions. Time spent here is money in the bank re longevity. There is a definite sense of 'this is tight' when a part is correctly tightened. If you don't have it...do it again.
If you are installing a third base gasket with no success, and have been average careful with your technique, I would really suspect a problem with warping or some such problem. I personally would eat crow and go to my friendly machine shop and ask them to mic the parts and show me the error of my ways.
Regarding the spring, any old one will do, as long as the length, diameter, and tension are correct.
I hope this helps.
S.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top