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Pilot Fuel Screw

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jon78gs1000
  • Start date Start date
J

Jon78gs1000

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Does anyone know of a good place to get 4 Pilot Fuel Screws for a vm 32 carb? When I took them apart the points were ground completely off and it just looks pityfull. If I had a Dig camera you'd just sigh. Why do people do the things they do? :-D
 
Jon78gs1000 said:
Does anyone know of a good place to get 4 Pilot Fuel Screws for a vm 32 carb? When I took them apart the points were ground completely off and it just looks pityfull. If I had a Dig camera you'd just sigh. Why do people do the things they do? :-D
Click to expand...

Uh. These weren't ground off by a PO. These are apparently the "later" carbs that the factory used to reduce smog. Many '79 models came with these modified carbs.
The difference is these carbs have a secondary passage to the carb throat CAPPED and so the screws are useless. Suzuki decided to just grind the tips flat and re-install them. They're "dummy" screws.
I may not be explaining this the best way but I'm off to work.
This topic came up before and some said I wasn't right about these "modified" carbs. But they're real I tell ya! :)
 
Jon78gs1000 said:
vm 32 carb?
Click to expand...
eh? :-s are you sure about that?
78 GS1000 = vm26 unless they are not stock. Never heard of a vm32 from anywhere though?

As for what Keith said, they could be dummy plugs. I had a set we thought were but they turned out to actually be broken off. You can tell the difference by looking at them closely. If they are cut off clean and machined looking then they are what he is talking about. if they are rough cut, twisted and all different lengths then you have a situation similar to what I had. You may also have damaged carb bodies now too. Be very careful removing anything, that metal is very soft.

Broken screws like I had:
DCP_7831.jpg


More pics here:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v382/Hoomgar/Remove%20Broken%20Screw%20Tips%20VM%20Carbs/
 
Aren't these the screws that have a habit of breaking off the tips and leaving the tips lodged in the carb body?
 
mixongw said:
Aren't these the screws that have a habit of breaking off the tips and leaving the tips lodged in the carb body?
Click to expand...
Exactly, see the link I posted above. That was what happened to mine. His may be the type Keith is talking about too though. No way to know without pictures.

02_Broken_Tip_In_Carb.jpg


05_Broken_Tips_Removed.jpg
 
you can get the broken tips out. its going to take a lot of work but it can be done.

soak them in light oil and carb cleaner. the carb cleaner will dry out fast but repeted use will help remove the varnish. you can also use brake fluid. what your trying to remove is a small part that has varnish holding it in place.

the hole trick is do not rush it. i have taken a few weeks to get the tip to pop out. the best tool to help remove the tip is a welding torch cleaning set. it has fine steal wires. pick the smallest one and use it to lightly push on the tip. once you get the tip out, there may be a small amount of varnish left in the hole. so repeated cleaning after it is remove will not hurt one bit.

i have found when cleaning a carb, when you think its clean do it two more times, or you will be pulling the carb back off.
 
gremlin said:
you can get the broken tips out. its going to take a lot of work but it can be done.

soak them in light oil and carb cleaner. the carb cleaner will dry out fast but repeted use will help remove the varnish. you can also use brake fluid. what your trying to remove is a small part that has varnish holding it in place.

the hole trick is do not rush it. i have taken a few weeks to get the tip to pop out. the best tool to help remove the tip is a welding torch cleaning set. it has fine steal wires. pick the smallest one and use it to lightly push on the tip. once you get the tip out, there may be a small amount of varnish left in the hole. so repeated cleaning after it is remove will not hurt one bit.

i have found when cleaning a carb, when you think its clean do it two more times, or you will be pulling the carb back off.
Click to expand...


Here is what I did:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=82559
 
Hoomgar said:
Exactly, see the link I posted above. That was what happened to mine. His may be the type Keith is talking about too though. No way to know without pictures.

02_Broken_Tip_In_Carb.jpg


05_Broken_Tips_Removed.jpg
Click to expand...
If I had read the post a little more carefully, I would have noticed that was described.
 
I got the 32mm from measuring the Head side of the carb barrel. (Is this correct?) This is the second time i've owned the bike.Paid $400 for it first time and $125 the second. :-D I took the carbs apart years ago and remember the tips were like pins,very sharp ( I was impaled so I can't forget and It Hurt).When I took them apart recently they were like a frigin banana. :(
The guy told me he ground them on a bench grinder. There horrible!
It runs as rich as Bill Gates!

I got O-rings from Robert Barr,$19.00 U.S for all 4 carbs. Am making a 4 gauge Vacumm sync and I just got a Colortune. She'll be back to normal in the very near future :-D
Thanks for the replies guy's.
Oh and Keith, I believe you about the dummy plugs, but us Canadians don't have the E.P.A stuff like the U.S does. Not so stringent.
 
Last edited:
Ok I was having a Senior moment. The carbs are 27mm. Checked em 3 times. I took the pilot fuel screws out and there wasn't any broken tips.
 
Jon78gs1000 said:
Ok I was having a Senior moment. The carbs are 27mm. Checked em 3 times. I took the pilot fuel screws out and there wasn't any broken tips.
Click to expand...

I assure you they are vm26 or vm28 carbs if stock buddy :) I don't believe there was ever any vm27 carbs made either? 26, 28, 29 and 33 are the 4 main size VM carbs from this era that I am aware of. The 29 and 33's are both smoothbore carbs while the 26 and 28's are regular vm carbs. The vm28 carbs I am pretty sure were a European only item as well?

As for not having any broken tips in the carb bodies... This is a good thing! As you said, your friend told you he ground them off so the tips most likely were not snapped off by screwing them into the carb body too tightly. This is a good thing. Although it means you need new screws because there is no way you can tune your idle circuit properly now with them like that.

You need to get new replacement screws for that. Don't even think that you can manufacture something and then properly tune your idle circuit. It isn't going to happen.

You can still find them online. Try these guys, they claim to sell them.

http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/
 
I measured it with a plastic vernier caliper.It's probably out. I looked at the sight you posted but can't find anything similar to a fuel screw? I E-mailed them to see if they can get me some.The only I.D the carbs have is
490
10
on the flange that screws to the mounting plate.
I think you could make them on a steel lathe,but you need to have the degree of taper.I'll take them over to our shop and measure them with a proper steel caliper.With my luck they'll turn out to be the one set made for some Romanian bike :-D
 
Jon78gs1000 said:
I measured it with a plastic vernier caliper.It's probably out. I looked at the sight you posted but can't find anything similar to a fuel screw? I E-mailed them to see if they can get me some.The only I.D the carbs have is
490
10
on the flange that screws to the mounting plate.
I think you could make them on a steel lathe,but you need to have the degree of taper.I'll take them over to our shop and measure them with a proper steel caliper.With my luck they'll turn out to be the one set made for some Romanian bike :-D
Click to expand...

You have to measure the ID I believe? I am guessing yours are the vm26 carbs. I don't know how to identify them from numbers but others may? Does it say on them anywhere what they are? Maybe the parts numbers will help? Not sure.

As for those guys, yes, you email them and they will reply with the part numbers you need. I believe that is what I did as I didn't see them on the web site either but they sold them before so hopefully they still can get them.

Here are some picks of my vm26 carbs if it helps at all:
DCP_8351.jpg

DCP_8352.jpg

DCP_7222.jpg
 
There's no other I.D on the carbs
motor ser# GS1000 102115
intake bore (airbox side) 40mm
exhaust side (head) 27mm but they taper inn so it's probably 26mm at the slide :-D
your picks look identicle to mine
I also have no springs with the pilot fuel screws :(
At least I know what I have.
And thats a good thing
thanks Hoomgar
 
just been through this ordeal with my vm26's on my gs750e. the carbs were stripped and we discovered 3 out of the 4 tips were broken off in the bodies. wish i'd read this thread first as i was advised just to get a new set of carbs. i picked a set up at the wreckers for $165. not too bad i thought.
it baffles me how someone could stuff it up 3 times! is this a common occurence?

gus
 
To the dismay of quite a few people it's seems to be a very popular sport.
This "Twist Em If Ah Got Em" screws. lol :confused:
I sent an E-mail to http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/ to see if they have any. If I can't find any,as a last resort Robert Barr E-mailed me the Dimensions of the little suckers so if I can't get any retail,I'll try to lathe a set out of brass stock.
I like the look of Hoomgar's painted carbs. I think I'll go that route. :-D
 
Jon78gs1000 said:
To the dismay of quite a few people it's seems to be a very popular sport.
This "Twist Em If Ah Got Em" screws. lol :confused:
I sent an E-mail to http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/ to see if they have any. If I can't find any,as a last resort Robert Barr E-mailed me the Dimensions of the little suckers so if I can't get any retail,I'll try to lathe a set out of brass stock.
I like the look of Hoomgar's painted carbs. I think I'll go that route. :-D
Click to expand...

Where do you see painted carbs buddy? :confused:
 
WOW,if they aren't painted then tell me just how you get those suckers to look like that! That's a great job!
\\:D/ :-D
 
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