Pilot Jet Setting Under Rubber Plug

[BIKERTUCKER]

For 82 gs1100L any input for proper setting for pilot jet. Yes the one Mr. Haynes shows removed, but in description says don't remove. My concern is after twenty eight years Im sure they are not at factory setting. Would like to clean and replace. Even after finding several air intake leaks, performance is still bland below 4800 rpm. Have looked at and read much good info in search
mode but when spec's are given for an 1100 preset is the only info given. Just to clarify, I'm referring to the pilot jet in the carb, and not the Idle air jet on the outside of the carb. Seemed to be alot of confusion on that in other posts.

Thanks

Tim

 

[gggGary]

it's a fixed orifice jet like a main jet and is not adjustable except by changing the jet, on the US spec 1100s #45 seems to be the most common size. IMHO It should be removed and carb cleaner blown through the jet and connecting passages. Great caution is in order while removing them as they are at the bottom of a deep well and burring up the screwdriver slot can prevent removal. A screwdriver that is the perfect size for the slot in both dimensions is important.

 

[almarconi]

My concern is after twenty eight years Im sure they are not at factory setting.

What could have possibly led you to this conclusion

 

[Steve]

Agreed, that jet should be removed when the carbs are dipped. The jets should be dipped, along with the carb body, but should be removed first. They should then be replaced snuggly and the rubber plugs put back in place.

On the BS series carbs (usually called "CV" carbs), the only items that should NOT be installed snuggly are the idle mixture adjustment screws (the ones on the top of the outlet of the carb, under the aluminum plugs). The only other adjustments would be the sync screws, and they should be locked in place when everything is done.

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[BIKERTUCKER]

Thanks for the info. Guess I let myself be convinced by reading other posts that it was adjusted like the idle air jet. So I'll remove, clean, and install again snuggly.

Tim

 

[BIKERTUCKER]

Found two pilot jets plugged at the ends and two needle jets in sad shape.
Now I can blip the throttle at start up cold, before it would die. Also now pulls strong thru idle till 4800 rpm, than it kicks it up another notch. Im a happy boy. Now with clutch properly adjusted, it begins to slip a little at full throttle.
Maybe new clutch time.

Tim

 

[Dave8338]

May be a broken spring or two...

 

[BIKERTUCKER]

I'll check things out next week.

 

[Steve]

Now with clutch properly adjusted, it begins to slip a little at full throttle. Maybe new clutch time.

May be a broken spring or two...

I'll check things out next week.

Freebie's clutch was slipping, too. I changed the springs last weekend. The springs that we took out were probably the originals, and they were a full 1/8" (3 mm) shorter than the new springs. Quite likely you don't need anything more than new springs, so start cheap, just get a set of springs and a gasket, total cost about $30. If you think you need fibers, it's almost $100 more.

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[BIKERTUCKER]

Thanks for the heads up Steve.