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Pingle conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter Craig
  • Start date Start date
C

Craig

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83 GS1100 ESD. Doing a Pingle conversion. I need to enlarge the opening, for the stand pipe, in the tank. I first thought of using my dremel, but the thought of sparks and fuel left me not wanting to fry my "marshmellows". Any ideas on how to do this safely. I know that I can drain the tank and let it completly air out so that there are no fumes inside, but I want to ride the bike this summer! Also, has anyone done this to the same bike? Are there any clearance issues? I have gone to 36mm Mikuni smoothbores.

Kind regards...Craig
 
I have a new pingel on the bench but have not installed it yet. I purchased the petcock and adapter plate and am under the impression it is a direct bolt on fit.

What hole are you enlarging? maybe you need an adapter plate?
 
Re: Pingle conversion

YOu must have the adapter plate. The pingle threads into the adapter plate and the plate bolts to the bottom of the tank using the original petcock mounting bolt holes. There is no space/clearance problem on the 83 1100.

I use a tapered reamer in an electric drill to enlarge the hole. Go slowly and check for fit after every couple of seconds of reaming. There is no margin for overboring the hole as the adapter plate will not cover the mistake.

Earl


Craig said:
83 GS1100 ESD. Doing a Pingle conversion. I need to enlarge the opening, for the stand pipe, in the tank. I first thought of using my dremel, but the thought of sparks and fuel left me not wanting to fry my "marshmellows". Any ideas on how to do this safely. I know that I can drain the tank and let it completly air out so that there are no fumes inside, but I want to ride the bike this summer! Also, has anyone done this to the same bike? Are there any clearance issues? I have gone to 36mm Mikuni smoothbores.

Kind regards...Craig
Click to expand...
 
I do have the adapter plate. The current "hole" is oblong for the original valve. The pingle requires a round hole. I just don't want to have the whole thing explode from a spark while enlarging the hole!

craig
 
Even after a fuel tank has sat for a loooooooong time, there will still be enough residual vapour to cause a nasty ka-boom. I would never go near a fuel tank with any sort of cutting or welding tool; it's just asking for severe injury at the very least.

Mike.
 
Explosion would only be a problem if you insist on smoking while standing over the tank or attempt to enlarge the hole with an acetylene torch. :-)
On a cold day, there are no fumes and you can put a burning match out in gasoline, but just take my word for it on the latter. :-)

I would not use a high speed tool such as a dremel. It turns fast enough to build up heat. 600 rpm or so on a drill with a reamer results in negligable heat and no sparks.

Earl


Craig said:
I do have the adapter plate. The current "hole" is oblong for the original valve. The pingle requires a round hole. I just don't want to have the whole thing explode from a spark while enlarging the hole!

craig
Click to expand...
 
Earl: I will take your word for it! If you hear a muffeled sound and a mushroom cloud appearing out of the northwest ... things didn't go so well!! 8O

BTW, I have no intentions of using a "cutting torch"!


Craig
 
I just checked my parts and the tank. You are correct the Pingel requires a round hole and the tank has a pill capsule shaped slot.

I would follow Earl's suggestion...as I will later this spring.
 
Use a shop vac that is blowing air nto the tank from the gas fill hole. Let it do that for a day with the tank emptied and the old petcock out. Then let it run while you are enlargening the hole. For extra saftey if you want, use a round file and onley use outward strokes. My uncle did it that way and i was watching him. I ocasionally saw a spark being blown outward.
 
When I installed my pingle I used a low speed cordless drill with a dremel grinding bit (barrel shaped made of compressed sand or some gritty substance). This bit at low speeds did not generate a single spark. I think I might have let the tank sit overnight uncapped after draining just to be on the safe side. I was more concerned about getting debris in the tank than blowing myself up. It took awhile but eventually worked with no Kaboom.

a rat tail file would probably be the safest way to go - just file only on the out-stroke
 
On my '79 1000, I just used a small rat-tailed file to enlarge the hole. I had to remove maybe 1/8" material on two sides. Didn't take long at all. I only filed on the "down" stroke and it was still easy. Just rinse the tank well after.
Side note: 6 wraps of teflon tape was perfect on the Pingels valve threads. No leaks and I did'nt have to strain to get the valve tight and still facing out perfectly.
 
It doesn't matter what the topic...with each post I am always amazed at the response...(dabbing a tear)... that I recieve from all of my online friends. This place is great!! :D :D
 
Any electric motor used for forced air ventilation of flammable gases should have enclosed brushes. Shop vacs do not. Blowing air with a shop vac will cause evaporation and fumes and the vac's nonsealed brushes will shower more sparks in two seconds that you could with a file all day long.

I would only use a shop vac if the hose was long enough that I could place the vac outside the room I was working in. (yeah, I know the intent is to blow air, not draw.

I know a lot of people have used vacs, and will continue to, but I wouldnt.

Earl




FoolMeTwice said:
Use a shop vac that is blowing air nto the tank from the gas fill hole. Let it do that for a day with the tank emptied and the old petcock out. Then let it run while you are enlargening the hole. For extra saftey if you want, use a round file and onley use outward strokes. My uncle did it that way and i was watching him. I ocasionally saw a spark being blown outward.
Click to expand...
 
If you have an air compressor you can use an air valve to blow it out. I removed the fuel gauge sensor so I could get a greater volumn of air going through it to clear it out. If you don't have an air compressor, use a shop vacuum, stick the hose on the exhaust of the vacuum and blow through the tank. Let it blow for about 30 minutes. Most single speed vacuums are squirrel cage motors and don't have brushes.

Hap
 
Hap Call said:
If you have an air compressor you can use an air valve to blow it out. I removed the fuel gauge sensor so I could get a greater volumn of air going through it to clear it out. If you don't have an air compressor, use a shop vacuum, stick the hose on the exhaust of the vacuum and blow through the tank. Let it blow for about 30 minutes. Most single speed vacuums are squirrel cage motors and don't have brushes.

Hap
Click to expand...

Hmm.....Squirrel-powered vacuum. That just might work.
 
I have never done it, some say that the reserve tube needs to be modified or you will have 1/2 tank when you go on reserve ???
 
Mr Call
Not to take any recognition away from squirrels, would the name for the typical vacuum motor be a wound rotor motor whose RPM is only governed bu the constant load applied by the impeller??
 
Craig said:
It doesn't matter what the topic...with each post I am always amazed at the response...(dabbing a tear)... that I recieve from all of my online friends. This place is great!! :D :D
Click to expand...
Oh quit blubbering and whip out that rat-tail! :twisted:
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Craig said:
It doesn't matter what the topic...with each post I am always amazed at the response...(dabbing a tear)... that I recieve from all of my online friends. This place is great!! :D :D
Click to expand...
Oh quit blubbering and whip out that rat-tail! :twisted:
Click to expand...

When you are done, you will be able to pass more gas 8O
 
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