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Piocked up a 80 GS 1000 G with 4K miles, leaking oil from everywhere

  • Thread starter Thread starter pnedac
  • Start date Start date
P

pnedac

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Lucked out and picked up a sweet G with only 4K original miles. This thing rips, but unfortanately it is in need of some love if it is ever going to be a good daily rider. My question is how far do I need to go to replace some of these gaskets? Do I need to take the engine completely out of the bike to get these leaks fixed? I see that the main offender is the valve cover gasket. Some bikes you can get to, but others not so much. Just curious.

Thanks,
 
If you have to ask you need to get a service manual and read it.
 
AlMarconi,

It was a simple question champ. I have the manual, but I am asking about people's general experience. I have built several bikes and even have one of my bikes listed on BOTM a couple years ago on this site. I am no stranger to the GS, but a simple question never hurts.
 
The valve cover gasket is a simple one, $10 and it can be replaced in less than 30 minutes with only taking off the gas tank. Since you're in there though you might as well do the valve shims, another fairly simple task and is part of the routine maintenance. Once the shims are done you will need to vacuum synch the carbs so maybe make sure you have the right tools for that before you do the the valve shims. Where else is she leaking oil from? if the head or base gasket, or more common the o-rings between the head and base are leaking it's a full tear down but might as well start with the valve cover and see from there. Would be great to see a picture of the old girl!
 
pnedac said:
AlMarconi,

It was a simple question champ. I have the manual, but I am asking about people's general experience. I have built several bikes and even have one of my bikes listed on BOTM a couple years ago on this site. I am no stranger to the GS, but a simple question never hurts.
Click to expand...

Since you are familiar with GS bikes than certainly you understand the valve cover must come off for valve adjustments. The service manual details how to do this very basic work, or check out Cliff's valve adjustment tutorial. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
Didn't mean to sound harsh but if you have done this before, you would know what to replace. With out pictures its hard to see whats leaking.
 
+1 on azr, but I'd upgrade the valve clearances from "might as well" to "really should". With only 4k on it, it's due for the first and probably hasn't been done. Save the vacuum sync for keeping it smooth. If the valve clearances are good, the sync from the factory is probably still on target. Unless your 32 year old intake parts are leaking air (also quite likely).

Anyhow, these are easy to work on. You can do anything but split the cases with the engine in the frame. You even have one of the models where the air box won't drive you insane. Enjoy!
 
Picked up a GS1000G

Picked up a GS1000G

I have attached a picture for fun. I think I will need to a deeper inspedtion to understand exactly what is leaking. The PO had about 2 quarts too much oil in there, which I think was not helping. PO said the bike does not work at all, but once I put the proper amount of oil and some fuel (also helps bikes run) she fired up and now it seems pretty much turn key. Thank you all for the help and I will let you know what the outcome is. I am pretty surprised about how well it has been kept all these years.

Cheers!
 
Welcome and good deal on the bike.
Sheeezz, you guys are getting grumpy......:p

Anywho.....Oil leaks can sometimes be difficult to locate. If it's just the valve cover gasket, it's easy peasy. There's also clutch cover, head and base gasket, cam chain tensioner, tach cable, shifter seal, etc.....

Looks like you got one heck of a deal. :)
 
The PO must have been a Wolverines fan, or possibly (are there any?) Rams supporter.

Clean up all the oil, and find those leaks. You should be able to get that valve cover off without removing the engine. I don't know about the 1000, but on my 650 there is JUST enough space to lift it and clear the cam chain.
 
With the non-stock paint and seat cover, stainless brake lines up front, missing side cover and scuffing on the emblems I'm wondering if the mileage isn't really a lot more than 4,000. Still a very nice, clean bike. If the maintenance has been kept up, the real mileage won't matter much.
 
Glad you grabbed that bike, I remember the ad posted, seemed like a real deal. Heck with the right amount of oil in there now those leaks might just stop all together.
 
Dogma said:
With the non-stock paint and seat cover, stainless brake lines up front, missing side cover and scuffing on the emblems I'm wondering if the mileage isn't really a lot more than 4,000. Still a very nice, clean bike. If the maintenance has been kept up, the real mileage won't matter much.
Click to expand...

Read my mind.
 
Oil leaks can look far worse than they actually are.

I'd invest in a can of foamy degreaser (or product of your choice) and some nylon brushes and clean all oily areas first. Then run the bike a while and see where the new, fresh leaks appear. It might be far less of a problem than it looks. Or not. But at least you'd have a better idea, and a cleaner engine.

I don't see the point in setting the valve lash if you're going to wind up pulling the head (and hence the cams) to R/R gaskets. Set the valves when you're done.

I remember seeing that bike in the Road-Ready Bikes for Sale area. Glad to see someone here snagged it.
 
Some leaks are more difficult to repair than others. One of my 1000G's began to weep a little from the cylinder base last spring. That is a bitch. A valve cover isn't too bad, depending upon how much of it is stuck to the head.

A little bit of information on what is leaking would be useful.
 
I believe there is a mandatory re-torque of the top end after initial running. If it was never done, it will leak, especially if it was run for a while and then sat for an extended period. I'd re-torque everything according to the manual and then see if it is still leaking. My 850 was the same until I tightened it up. I've had no leaks once done. I went ahead and ran the valves later just to check, but mine were all within specs.
 
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