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Pipes turning blue is this a problem?

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockhammer
  • Start date Start date
Hi,

These bikes were set at the factory to run lean enough to pass the EPA mandates at the time. If there are any air leaks in the intake system then the air/fuel mixture would be even leaner. These are 30 year old bikes and all of the maintenance has to be kept up (i.e. airbox sealing, intake boots, intake O-rings, etc). In addition to that, some members have installed Dynojet Stage 1 kits on their otherwise stock bikes to allow greater adjustability in the air/fuel ratios. (Note: Stage 3 kits are used for those bikes with major exhaust and intake modifications.)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Also notice there is sealer INSIDE the box along the places the metal pieces join. Pick any loose stuff off and apply something like Ultra Black RTV to all the internal seams to be sure they are air tight.
 
As a side note when you fix it FLITZ will take the bluing off.
 
chuck, neither of those links are for CV carburetors.
They work differently.
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,



I'm not familiar with FLITZ. Does it work better than Blue Job?



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

I have no experience with that one. Flitz works great on virtually everything and leaves behind a protective, water repelling coating that is good for usually 3-4 months minimum in summer months.

By hand with a paper towel most bluing can be removed in a few minutes. Using a "rag ball" (I like the flitz one it does not get hot) on a drill will get it off in seconds.

You can polish the entire bike (safe for paint but theres better stuff for that) with the drill attachment in under two hours, and an hour after practice, with flitz. My dads '67 HD is chromed to a rediculous level and it would usually take me around 1.5hrs to polish one end to the other.

Flitz is cheap, available at Walmart and any auto place, and a little goes a very long way. I have also used it to polish carbs/heads/etc on ATV motors.
 
rockhammer said:
I put a very light amount of oil on it. Half the amount that came with the filter.
Click to expand...
Sorry, but that is very UNinformative. :-k

Did they send you half an ounce or half a gallon?

Who said that the entire amount was to be used at once, and you chose to use only half?

We have NO idea how much oil they sent you, but we CAN tell you that it takes VERY LITTLE oil to properly oil a K&N filter.

.
 
Check your engine breather hose from the engine to the air box for a good seal, item 13, and............
your air box drain hose, item 18. (The one on my GS1000 didn't have a plug on the end, but the one on my '82 GS1100E came with a plug at the end of the hose, I always thought there was some funky check valve thingy in there prior). Don't know what those "tube drains" are all about, item 11 & 12, but they could be a source for air leaks also.
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2144

Also, I think those K & N air filters are less restrictive than OEM air filters,
don't know how much of a difference that would make but..........

Pics of the pipes would be great.

If after checking for vacuum leaks and it makes no difference, I'd just back out the air screws a quarter of a turn and see if it improves, or better yet do the high rpm method.
 
I know that Tom...but it explains the basics of how the venturis create a low pressure zone, the basic pathways and functions of the circuits.etc etc. Take what you need and leave the rest applies.

The very basics are the same whether its a diaphram operation that opens the slides or a hard point mechanical link ..like VMs. Once the slides move and bring up the needles etc etc its all very close to the same really.
 
I have all the parts in to completely go through the bike today and check all areas where ther can be a leak. I actually noticed the bluing is strongest out of the number four pipe. That is the far end of the air box where I am not sure the air filter is sealed right. I will dissemble today and have a look. I really like all the responses this is really insightful.
 
Steve said:
Sorry, but that is very UNinformative. :-k

Did they send you half an ounce or half a gallon?

Who said that the entire amount was to be used at once, and you chose to use only half?

We have NO idea how much oil they sent you, but we CAN tell you that it takes VERY LITTLE oil to properly oil a K&N filter.

.
Click to expand...


I cant not remember the weight. It was a small plastic pillows worth I would say a couple table spoons at the most in the pillow. The instruction said I should not use any more than half. I used about that maybe a tad less. I ran very little over each pleat and let it sit while the oil dispersed through out the filter.
 
Get the recharging kits at any outo parts store. Has cleaner and a pump sprayer for the oil. Actually regular Dawn dish soap and hot water is the best cleaner I had found for K&N filters.
 
rockhammer said:
I cant not remember the weight. It was a small plastic pillows worth I would say a couple table spoons at the most in the pillow. The instruction said I should not use any more than half. I used about that maybe a tad less. I ran very little over each pleat and let it sit while the oil dispersed through out the filter.
Click to expand...
That is the correct way to do it. They turn pink.

chuck hahn said:
Get the recharging kits at any outo parts store. Has cleaner and a pump sprayer for the oil. Actually regular Dawn dish soap and hot water is the best cleaner I had found for K&N filters.
Click to expand...
I also use dish soap. Works great.
You can get the oil in a liquid or spray. The spray is easier for rookies to use, but I prefer the oil since I have been using it for 4 decades.
 
I like the spray...easy to just dust the filter and rarely do you over oil it. Unless you really soak it with the pump that is, which is NOT what you want. I liken the amount to like a really fine morning dew..just barely wet.
 
I agree the spray is easier. I have been doing it for so long I can almost do it in my sleep. But the spray is easier.
 
rockhammer said:
I cant not remember the weight. It was a small plastic pillows worth I would say a couple table spoons at the most in the pillow. The instruction said I should not use any more than half. I used about that maybe a tad less. I ran very little over each pleat and let it sit while the oil dispersed through out the filter.
Click to expand...
Yep I just fitted the same K&N, ( http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=209284 ) Rockhammer has followed the instructions to the letter, I think mine is running a little lean (on my GS1100G) after fitting it, but I have only ran it while syncing the carbs, I haven't worried about it yet as I'm still to fit a 4-1 pipe.
 
I put the in-box K&N in my GS on one of my first maintenance routines. I did the washer mod to it, which richens it slightly, and I was GTG. Since you are going to put a pipe on it, you will probably have to go up a size or so on the main jets as well.
The washer mod is always a good thing to do, which raises the needle just a bit, but I can't find any of the threads which describe it. Basically, you replace the factory plastic washer with a stack of 4-5 3mm stainless steel washers, the stack being slightly shorter than the original plastic washer. I got mine at Ace Hardware, but you can also buy the assortment of SAE washers at Radio Shack and use the the ones that are "close enough". Since I had the K&N, I used 4 washers IIRC.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I put the in-box K&N in my GS on one of my first maintenance routines. I did the washer mod to it, which richens it slightly, and I was GTG. Since you are going to put a pipe on it, you will probably have to go up a size or so on the main jets as well.
The washer mod is always a good thing to do, which raises the needle just a bit, but I can't find any of the threads which describe it. Basically, you replace the factory plastic washer with a stack of 4-5 3mm stainless steel washers, the stack being slightly shorter than the original plastic washer. I got mine at Ace Hardware, but you can also buy the assortment of SAE washers at Radio Shack and use the the ones that are "close enough". Since I had the K&N, I used 4 washers IIRC.
Click to expand...
Yep I got Jets on the 'to buy' list. I hadn't seen the washer mod so that's interesting, as I'm likely to go K&N again on the GL with standard pipes...cheers!
 
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