Planning to wire in GSXR750 handlebar controls to a GS1100E

[posplayr]

Looks good Kevin, For that switch you might look at this. They are a little cheap looking but it is small and mounts right to the handle bar with three controls. If you spend a little more you will find one with symbols on the button rather than the plastic. I'm going to mount one upside down on my left had side.

The bar mount is solid so you have to slid it over, then there is a small set screw that holds it in place. All in all it is well made if not quite to the level of an OEM finish.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221030827330?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


You could also get this , or try and make something similar.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EARAFI6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24N3IYYMKT0U0

 

[CivilRock]

Finally went to pick up my SH775 R/R from the Polaris dealer ($64.99)
Then rode over to the Triumph dealer and got the connector ($9.49)

The new Series R/R was not going to fit without some work, especially with the connector. I'd have to move all the mounting spots on the panel and make room. Without the airbox, I have all sorts of room, and with the Dyna 2000 in use, the stock igniter spot was the perfect place for the new R/R. With just a little tweak of the mounting, it bolted right in place. This also opened up a little more space in the already crowded space between the battery and the electrical panel.

I buttoned everything up last night, confident I had done it all well. I even found a perfect connector and used one of the Triumph connectors. The 3 yellow from the 1150 stator plugged right into the male plugs once they were removed from the triumph connector. It made for a tidy and sturdy connection without having to hard wire it in.

This morning I clipped my DMM (digital multi meter) to the battery and it read 12.6v Then I started up the bike and in about 60-90 seconds it leveled off at 14.30v with the bike between 3,000-3,500 RPM (on choke).

I assume everything is working the way it's supposed to. And although I don't fully understand the benefit of a Series R/R, I trust posplayr that it will benefit the bike. (I do understand the non-shunt, and heat reduction, and stator longevity, but I just don't fully understand how the new R/R is able to do it) I did do some googling trying to confirm the wiring for the Triumph connector and I found instructions/threads on just about every major brand of bike that are now doing this mod. It's kind of an amazing underground knowledge base that is correcting all these bad R/R with new technology. Hopefully I'm not redoing it in another 9 years for the next best thing.

-Kevin

 

[posplayr]

It is quite possible to mount the SH-775 in close to the stock position, you just have to eliminate that huge connector. I don't know where there is a How-to-do-it, but I suspect crimping and soldering spades to the end of the wires, sliding them onto the made spades coming from the SH-775 and then soldering that, and then fill the whole thing with RTV or other potting.

Generally I would not have relocated the R/R to the other side of the battery box as you surely had to extend the Red R/R(+) from the SSPB to the R/R. As long as it is less than 2 foot it should be OK, even if the voltage is a little lower than should.

If you relocate the SH-775 mounting holes to move it up, then it might even fit with the bulky connector. So if you did more teh SH-775 back, then your Dyna 2000 would be happier on the shock insulated battery box (where the ignitor was). If not make sure the Dyna 2000 is mounted in rubber so it doesn't see all the frame vibration. It will last longer that way.

Mounting it to the battery box gives you the opportunity for a double shock isolation with the added weight of the battery

1. Rubber mount between frame and battery box (which is heavy and that is a good thing)
2. Rubber mount between the battery box and the Dyna 2000.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1916213&postcount=96