Please Help! My bike just stalled-no electrical power

[Anonymous]

I was driving down the road when the bike just suddenly stalled out. I lost all electrical power and had to push the bike home. Fortunately I was just around the block from my house at the time. I checked the battery and it read 13 volts. I checked the fuses and they are ok also. I am not mechanically inclined. Please help me out on this one.

 

[argonsagas]

Carmen...please see PM.

If that does not cure the problem, I can come over on the weekend and see about fixing it.

Forgot to ask...do you have a multimeter?

Crappy tire has one on sale this week. It's a good investment as you will be able to use it around the house as well as on the bike.

 

[twhite]

I sent you a response to your PM as well Carmen.

At that time I hadn't noticed your post about the battery voltage being okay...sounds like a bad ground.

I'd be happy to come lend a hand on the weekend as well.

 

[redliner1973]

Those 10mm bolts with the phillips head on it, on the battery teminals, can get loose when using a phillips screwdriver to tighten them. Clean tehm, use a 10mm socket and ratchet and tighten them with that. i bet that cures it... :twisted:

 

[earlfor]

Since Tim and Ron are in your neighborhood and can get by to help out, I think your problem is solved. If I can be of any help, I'll be happy to "give her a go". The closest wiring diagram to yours that I have is for an 80 GSX1100, but it should be pretty close. Since all electrical power is gone, the first thing I would check after voltage at the battery terminals (which was 13 volts) would be to leave the lead of the voltmeter on the battery positive termina and put the negative lead on an engine bolt. If you have a good ground, the voltage should be the same as it was directly on the terminals.
Then I would check for continuity on the fuses, sometimes they look good and are not. Next would be to check the power supply (+) lead to the ignition switch. Do you have a Clymer or Haynes for the bike with the wiring diagram? It will tell you the route the switch power supply takes and what color wires you are looking for.

Earl

 

[Anonymous]

dead electrics

dead electrics

I had the same, frustrating problem on my 85 550. Turns out my stator was faulty, so the battery had enough juice to start the bike, run for a few minutes (for me to ride away) then because it wasn't being recharged from the stator coil, it would dry up and then just cut out on me.

This is not a quick fix, believe me. you need to ascertain whether or not your stator is working properly. this involves checking the circuits on all the wiring between your coil and the battery, as well, if you have any type of rectifier/regulator unit, you need to check its serviceablility as well. Do not attempt this kind of work yourself unless you are comfortable with electrics and have the time, patience and equipment to know what you are doing.

If you need a new stator coil, get one from the manufactured new with a warrantee and have your dealer install it.

 

[Anonymous]

I found the problem. The main fuse looked ok but turned out to be blown. Problem fixed. However, I do wonder whether the popped fuse was just an anomoly or there is an underlying cause. Oh well, I guess I'll just drive it and see what happens. Btw, I always carry spare fuses. Thanks to everyone for their advice, escpecially Earlfor, who suggested I take a second look at the fuses because they sometime appear ok when in fact they're not.
I am happy, happy.

 

[earlfor]

Carmen, I think there is a good chance the fuse may have died of old age and cumulative vibration etc. If it was me, I would do one more check.
The most prone place for wires to rub through is on the harness where it comes out from under the front of the gas tank and the turning of the forks sometimes pulls and flexes it. I would check at forward edge of the tank for cracks or worn spots on the wiring harness.

Earl

 

[Anonymous]

Great to see another one from Ottawa. There must be 6 of us on the board and I've seen 3 on the roads here.

Steve

 

[argonsagas]

Carmen, I think there is a good chance the fuse may have died of old age and cumulative vibration etc. If it was me, I would do one more check.
The most prone place for wires to rub through is on the harness where it comes out from under the front of the gas tank and the turning of the forks sometimes pulls and flexes it. I would check at forward edge of the tank for cracks or worn spots on the wiring harness.

Earl

Next most likely item is the horns. They sometimes seem pretty tight, but move sideways enough that the contacts reach the frame, and they short out. Whether this blows the light fuse or the main fuse depends on whether or not you have the correct amperage rating fuse installed at each location.

 

[Anonymous]

I started the bike with the new fuse and it popped within 20 seconds. Then I replaced the fuse again and all hell broke loose, with the wiring harness leading from the fuse box beginnig to smoke. Only after I pulled the main fuse did it cease. This occurs even when the ignition is off. Do you have any ideas? I am at my wits end.

 

[wrench]

I started the bike with the new fuse and it popped within 20 seconds. Then I replaced the fuse again and all hell broke loose, with the wiring harness leading from the fuse box beginnig to smoke. Only after I pulled the main fuse did it cease. This occurs even when the ignition is off. Do you have any ideas? I am at my wits end.

Did you replace the fuse with one of higher amperage?
Wrench.

 

[Anonymous]

I started the bike with the new fuse and it popped within 20 seconds. Then I replaced the fuse again and all hell broke loose, with the wiring harness leading from the fuse box beginnig to smoke. Only after I pulled the main fuse did it cease. This occurs even when the ignition is off. Do you have any ideas? I am at my wits end.

Did you replace the fuse with one of higher amperage?
Wrench.

You are not alone Carmen my Yammy died yesterday

 

[Anonymous]

No I did not replace the fuse with one of higher amperage.

 

[earlfor]

I think the thing to do is to take the gas tank off and the side covers off so you can see the harness. Since it started to smoke, we know the wire has melted, so it should be fairly easy to find. I would start at the fuse box with unwrapping the taped harness. You would have to unwrap it anyway to be able to replace the bad wire. I can only think of two leads from the main fuse that could short with the ignition turned off. There is one red lead to the starter relay and another red lead that supplies power to the ignition switch. Its going to be a bit tedious, but at least its not mechanical huh? Just unwrap the harness starting at the fuse box, it will be very obvious when you get to the trouble spot. Just get comfortable, relax and take your time. Nothing to it Carmen. You dont even have to disconnect any plugs or wiring connections.

Earl

I started the bike with the new fuse and it popped within 20 seconds. Then I replaced the fuse again and all hell broke loose, with the wiring harness leading from the fuse box beginnig to smoke. Only after I pulled the main fuse did it cease. This occurs even when the ignition is off. Do you have any ideas? I am at my wits end.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the great advice Earl. I've got Ron coming over this morning and I'll pass on your instructions. Btw, I installed a new fuel line on Wednesday. I am wondering whether perhaps I damaged a wire when re-installing the tank. I guess I'll find out. This problem could very well end up being self-inflicted. I'll let you know how things go. Thanks again.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi
It looks like you've got plenty of help but here's my pennyworth. A couple of months ago, much the same thing happened with my bike - I stalled in an emergency stop and lost all power. That problem seemed to be cured by a new starter solenoid. However, the bike soon broke down again and during attempts to fix it I got various wires smoking. I ended up with a new rectifier. I also had to replace (or have replaced - I paid an autoelectrician) several wires in the harness that had fused together!
The bike now starts far better than it ever did before so some good came from it.

Roger

 

[earlfor]

I agree Roger, after repairing the wiring, and checking connections for corrosion and increased resistance, the next things I would check are the starter solenoid and regulator/rectifier, and also the harness looking for rubbed/worn casing. replacing the burned wires will reconnect the system, but that doesnt explain why this happened.

Earl

Hi
It looks like you've got plenty of help but here's my pennyworth. A couple of months ago, much the same thing happened with my bike - I stalled in an emergency stop and lost all power. That problem seemed to be cured by a new starter solenoid. However, the bike soon broke down again and during attempts to fix it I got various wires smoking. I ended up with a new rectifier. I also had to replace (or have replaced - I paid an autoelectrician) several wires in the harness that had fused together!
The bike now starts far better than it ever did before so some good came from it.

Roger

 

[earlfor]

I really doubt the problem is anything you caused by installing a new fuel line. I've had gas tanks off and on many times and never had to rearrange a wire because of interference.

Earl

Thanks for the great advice Earl. I've got Ron coming over this morning and I'll pass on your instructions. Btw, I installed a new fuel line on Wednesday. I am wondering whether perhaps I damaged a wire when re-installing the tank. I guess I'll find out. This problem could very well end up being self-inflicted. I'll let you know how things go. Thanks again.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I would also disconnect the Regulator and check it