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please listen to my noise!

  • Thread starter Thread starter kurt112345
  • Start date Start date
never done that before...not sure what you'll find if anything.
can't imagine the tach drive making such a huge whine.
might as well to rule that out plus checking the chain/guides.
maybe bring it up on TDC and check each pair of pistons with a rod or screw driver and see if you have a piston lower/higher than it's mate...if so then the crank has twisted.
 
blowerbike said:
never done that before...not sure what you'll find if anything.
can't imagine the tach drive making such a huge whine.
might as well to rule that out plus checking the chain/guides.
maybe bring it up on TDC and check each pair of pistons with a rod or screw driver and see if you have a piston lower/higher than it's mate...if so then the crank has twisted.[/QUOTE

I will give that try and report, just. For ufun to iam going to put my old spring back tension just to see what it do iam up for trying just about anything at this point
Click to expand...
 
Honestly it sounds like a bad bearing to me. Are you having low oil pressure or excessive oil consumption?
 
kdupont said:
Honestly it sounds like a bad bearing to me. Are you having low oil pressure or excessive oil consumption?
Click to expand...

Is it a 750E or 1100E I can't tell but suspect it is 750 which may have a rod bearing issue.
 
kdupont said:
Honestly it sounds like a bad bearing to me. Are you having low oil pressure or excessive oil consumption?
Click to expand...

it's an 1100E.
they don't have rod sounds they just blow up.
i have heard main bearing knock before but the rod's are silent until deadly.
 
maybe cam chain to tight and has eaten into the rear guide...down to the metal.
you could be onto to something.
should be some tell tale signs such as rubber dust/partials/cam chain shiny maybe.
 
blowerbike said:
maybe cam chain to tight and has eaten into the rear guide...down to the metal.
you could be onto to something.
should be some tell tale signs such as rubber dust/partials/cam chain shiny maybe.
Click to expand...

If it is in the bottom end it is history, if it is in the top end there is a lot more opportunity for damage ; where should we start?
 
Was the cam chain tensioner pushed in and reset with the lock screw before reinstall after rebuild. You need to wind it up, set the lock screw & nut, install the tensioner, then release the screw to take up chain slack. Please confirm you did just that.
 
posplayr said:
If it is in the bottom end it is history, if it is in the top end there is a lot more opportunity for damage ; where should we start?
Click to expand...

i'm leaning towards the rear cam chain guide.
after days of thinking...thinking about the whirring sound i kinda of remember buying an 83ES with the engine off of it.
sold the roller and the engine to 2 different people.
the engine turned out to have a similar sound after installed..
turns out the crank had rusted from bad storage(basement) and was eating itself up.
OP will have it far enough a part soon.
we shall see!
 
blowerbike said:
i'm leaning towards the rear cam chain guide.
after days of thinking...thinking about the whirring sound i kinda of remember buying an 83ES with the engine off of it.
sold the roller and the engine to 2 different people.
the engine turned out to have a similar sound after installed..
turns out the crank had rusted from bad storage(basement) and was eating itself up.
OP will have it far enough a part soon.
we shall see!
Click to expand...

Yea that high pitched sound is like links running past something def much faster than rev s
 
posplayr said:
Yea that high pitched sound is like links running past something def much faster than rev s
Click to expand...

it's like a purpose made sound..like it's supposed to be there...
i have seen people over tighten with a manual tensioner and wear clean into the steel part of the rear guide...seen other's brake them in half but i have never heard that exact sound before..
damn strange!
 
Nessism said:
Was the cam chain tensioner pushed in and reset with the lock screw before reinstall after rebuild. You need to wind it up, set the lock screw & nut, install the tensioner, then release the screw to take up chain slack. Please confirm you did just that.
Click to expand...

Yes followed service manual exactly
 
What u guys think I.should do Next? Check piston Height for twisted crank? start tearing down to get good look at rear cam Tensioner? Maybe try my old spring in the Tensioner?
 
blowerbike said:
maybe cam chain to tight and has eaten into the rear guide...down to the metal.
you could be onto to something.
should be some tell tale signs such as rubber dust/partials/cam chain shiny maybe.
Click to expand...

Not saying it isn't the problem but when had valve cover off right before I started this post, I was thinking same thing pulled the cover and intake cam to look down at guide didn't see anything obvious at all no.rubber or metal, dumped oil nothing in oil either
 
if you remove the cams you should get an idea if the rear guide is farked.
but..
if you want to gauge the piston height/depth in pairs then that only requires a little time.
 
kurt112345 said:
Not saying it isn't the problem but when had valve cover off right before I started this post, I was thinking same thing pulled the cover and intake cam to look down at guide didn't see anything obvious at all no.rubber or metal, dumped oil nothing in oil either
Click to expand...

you can cut the oil filter a part...that is where the evil stuff will be if there is a problem.
when the rods step and the thrust starts wearing the oil filter will have what looks like brass/copper flakes in it.
 
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