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Pod filters?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Junkie
  • Start date Start date
J

Junkie

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I'll be getting the jetting on my '85 GS700 set up properly soon, and feel like throwing pods on it first. It doesn't have the stock exhaust, but the can on it is the stock one from an R6 and I like bikes to make some noise (most of the reason for the pods), although I certainly think there's such thing as excessive noise. I've always figured it's hard to make an intake sound bad but takes effort to make an exhaust sound good, so it's the intake that I'd like to open up.

The header on the bike is a Vance & Hines, and the can is off a newish R6 - not sure exactly what year. It's a 4-1 header.

What pods should I go with? I'd prefer going with UNIs over K&N, due to them costing half as much. I was happy with them on a different bike I had too, so I don't really see a reason not to go with them. If the UNIs work well on these bikes, what size do I need to use?

Or - are pods really a bad idea without additional modifications (other than proper jetting of course)? As I said, I'm not really expecting a big performance gain, it's mostly for the sound. I don't want to loose a ton of performance either, though.


thanks for any help :)
 
Most everyone on this site from what I can work out goes for K&Ns. I think you would be best advised to cough up the extra dosh for them. But probably someone who has pods on their bike will post here soon. Maybe CHEF. He's a knowledgable chap.
 
With the 4 into 1 and K&N pods (accept no substitute), get a Dynojet jet kit. You'll want to use the stage 3 jets and directions in that kit. http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/suzuki.aspx

A jet kit will help you get it right the first time. This will save you time and money as rejetting without a jet kit can be extremely frustrating and expensive as you buy and swap out jets, tearing more and more of your hair out. ;)

UNI filters are garbage by consensus. The jet kits are designed to work with K&N pods because they flow the best.

I have K&N pods/4 into 1 pipe/Dynojet stage 3 kit on mine and the intake sounds pretty nice. It was easy to install and works great. You get a bit of a boost in HP/torque in the higher RPM range.
 
On the Kawasaki Forum there is a guy called ELR658
who is a Motorcycle mechanic that answers the pods
question by saying somthing like: much cheaper and less
frustrating to just hit your head against the wall for a couple of hours.
When you switch to pods on CV carbs it can be very difficult
to get the lower half the the RPMs jetted right.
In the 1980s when I was in the Army I paid 2 mechanics to try,
ended up buying smoothbores. I have read on here about
people drilling their slides to make it work.

I am not saying it can't be done. Just that it probably won't be
easy. I have been looking for some slide carbs to go on my
1100 so I can use pods. But then, I am not really a mechanic.
And I don't have a lot of time to tune carbs.
 
Just had a thread about this not to long ago. 33 or 29s both run bout 300 to 400 bucks i think was the consensus, in any condition. Why would you want smoothies for the street tho?
 
From what I've read about the smoothbores they're not as nice on the street AS CVs BUT they're not terrible either. Also I've heard that gas mileage increases when you use them
 
From what ive read as well, if you're not a tuner, you'll be miserable. I had a set on my cb550. Never messed with them as the bike ran pretty good and i didnt have it long enough to bother with doing much of anything to it, and just looking at them made my head spin. I recall them being very "on-off" too. That may have been more to do with other things, but from what ive read about them NOW, i kinda think thats a trait they have.
 
Instead of paying $400 for smoothbores, a different solution is to get early GSX-R carbs from an oil cooled engine. These carbs will push into the original intake boots. They also will provide better throttle response and HP than the stock carbs and run around 125 dollars on ebay. I'm in the process of obtaining some, so i do not have any real experience with them so i am not sure how they really act, but from what I have read they are the best street carbs for the 700. Generally the early 86 GSX-R 1100 34mm carbs are the ones you want. I have however tried smoothbores on my bike and it makes a huge difference. That being said I think that different carbs are the best power upgrade, but you will need pods with different carbs because I am pretty sure that they wont fit in your stock airbox, plus it makes it much easier to remove and the carbs to change jets etc when tuning.
 
With the GSXR carbs, I'm sure rejetting will be required. Any clue what jets I'd want for them though?
 
That is beyond me, It would change depending on which year carb you get and what size as well (34mm, 36mm). Also the kind of gas you have, your altitude, and average temp..
 
Hmm
would the big carbs be a bad idea for something I want to be able to start up (and ride) in near-freezing temps? I'm also going to assume they wouldn't be friendly to fuel economy, any clue how much they tend to hurt it though? How much did you lose with your smoothbores?

Are the 36s too big for street use? They seem to be a lot easier to find.
 
Hmm
would the big carbs be a bad idea for something I want to be able to start up (and ride) in near-freezing temps? I'm also going to assume they wouldn't be friendly to fuel economy, any clue how much they tend to hurt it though? How much did you lose with your smoothbores?

Are the 36s too big for street use? They seem to be a lot easier to find.

I would not think that the 36's would "hurt" anything as the carb slides open enough to maintain a certain velocity of air/fuel but when you are at say 3/4 throttle with the 36mm the slide would be open lets say 1/2 way where as the 34mm would be open 3/4. I'm not sure exactly where they would be, but do you see my point? With a smaller carb you should have better low/mid range as opposed to a larger carb where you would get better top end... Generally. (correct me if i am wrong on any of this guys..)

Bigger carbs does not mean "richer" it just means flows more as opposed to the same carb type with a smaller circumference. When it is colder out you could make the idle circut richer by turning the adjust screw which in turn should make it easier to start when cold, but possibly rich once warmed up.

And just because it's a bigger carb does not mean it will flow more, it depends on how much your slide opens as well.

My smoothbores were jetted for my uncles bike which is a bored out gs 1100. I just put them on my bike and didn't touch the jetting, but with the "seat of my pants" dyno could tell the bike was making more power, that's what i went to the drag strip with. The carbs were messed up though and repaired and ultimately didn't function well in the state they were in. I got like 11 mpg with them, but they were not jetted right at all.

Bottom line is the 34's are probably ideal for the bike, 36's would work fine too. Either shouldn't effect cold starting anymore than the other that isn't fixable by adjusting the mixtures, and you shouldn't loose that many mpg.. My smoothbores were messed up..
 
I would be patient and work on other parts of the bike and wait for the right set to pop up on ebay, You just missed a bunch these past weeks.
 
ok, I guess I'll wait for some 34s to show up on ebay (unless you think there's somewhere better to look).
 
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