Pods, Pipes, Panic! (Help! Your Bike has Pods)

[Ira]

Since the last time I posted on this thread, I've gone through at least five combinations of mains and pilots. I ended up borrowing a tiny drill index and enlarging my idle jets one bit at a time until the bike would idle and accelerate correctly. I had to go down a few sizes on the main which were included in my dynojet kit, but I found one which performs well.

The bike rides fine now, and I learned a lot, but it would have been much easier to stick with the airbox.

 

[Wheelbreak]

So, my bike is running great, but can't get rid of the popping on decell. I just put in 52.5 pilots and still not any better! how big can I go? the more fuel I feed her the happier she is. Just wondering, what's the biggest anyone has gone on an 1100? I bumped my needles up (moved down one position) to the second up from the bottom. 138 mains (looks like a dyno kit, but I'm not sure it's from a P.O.) Looks to be drilled out. K&N with a home made muffler and winning performance headers. The muffler is short with a 1.75" ID baffle. Bike runs great. The idle is perfect. Plugs look good. Runs strong. Should I just live with the popping on decell? I wish there was a stock 1100 I could ride to compare the performance. As mine was already altered, so I have no frame of reference.

 

[Rob S.]

My 1100 pops a certain amount on decel; I think that's normal. (I'm in Queens, so we can take a ride.)

 

[Guest]

So, my bike is running great, but can't get rid of the popping on decell. I just put in 52.5 pilots and still not any better! how big can I go? the more fuel I feed her the happier she is. Just wondering, what's the biggest anyone has gone on an 1100? I bumped my needles up (moved down one position) to the second up from the bottom. 138 mains (looks like a dyno kit, but I'm not sure it's from a P.O.) Looks to be drilled out. K&N with a home made muffler and winning performance headers. The muffler is short with a 1.75" ID baffle. Bike runs great. The idle is perfect. Plugs look good. Runs strong. Should I just live with the popping on decell? I wish there was a stock 1100 I could ride to compare the performance. As mine was already altered, so I have no frame of reference.

I am running 47.5 pilots on my 1100E with APE pods and a Kerker 4-1 and have a little bit of popping on decel, but I live at 3600ft elevation so it won't correlate perfectly to your situation. Two sizes bigger at sea level doesn't seem crazy to me. Are you sure you don't have an exhaust leak? That will also cause popping and banging on decel.


Mark

 

[Wheelbreak]

I am running 47.5 pilots on my 1100E with APE pods and a Kerker 4-1 and have a little bit of popping on decel, but I live at 3600ft elevation so it won't correlate perfectly to your situation. Two sizes bigger at sea level doesn't seem crazy to me. Are you sure you don't have an exhaust leak? That will also cause popping and banging on decel.


Mark

I did have the tiniest leak on the #4 so I put new gaskets in and no more leaks, but still popping. Really my idle screws are still over three turns out so I may need to go up to the 55s I bought. With the 52.5s I have very little power loss with my girlfriend on the back where as before I noticed a large power decrease. So, I guess that means I am heading in the right direction. It's just surprising that it wants that much juice. Especially considering the PO had 45's in her!

My 1100 pops a certain amount on decel; I think that's normal. (I'm in Queens, so we can take a ride.)

Ya man!

I don't know if you're into choppers at all, but my buddies have this show that will blow you away with how beautiful some of the machines are. They get builders from all of the world. The bikes outside alone could be a show in itself.

http://brooklyninvitational.com/

 

[Wheelbreak]

Okay, Bike is running beautifully except that pesky popping on heavy decel. All of my pilot's are still 3-3.5 turns out which is too much. I went on a couple hundred mile ride on Saturday and was still able to get over 40 per gallon on the highway as long as I wasn't riding like an ass racing my friend. So, I am going to the 55s on the pilot. With this said, if these guys work, would it be possible the PO put more aggressive cams in? He did do the dyno kit, K&N pods, accel coils and 4-1. If so would they be labeled different so I could check them out next time I adjust my valves?

 

[don]

Maybe this is more to the point: has anyone had actual, reproducible success getting a good idle with k&n pods and cv carbs?

An O2 sensor indicates my air/fuel mix is optimal at idle and throughout the first half of the throttle, but revs still fluctuate at idle and the bike stumbles if I whack the throttle open.

I have 3 bikes that, with the help of this site, I have done ALL of the work on and they all have cv carbs. They all have different levels of mods. They are:

82 1100g 8-valve motor
stock airbox and filter
open stock 4 into 2 exhaust
dj stage-1
50-55 mpg

82 450tx 4-valve 2-cylinder motor
$40 for 2 uni foam pods
open stock 2 into 2 exhaust
dj stage-3
38-42 mpg

83 550e 16-valve motor
2 dodge neon k&n cold intake kit filters, (Siamese carbs)
stock "punched out" exhaust
dj stage-3
50-55 mpg

All of these bikes require "choke" for the first start and a little warm up time
All will fire with a simple blip of the starter button hot or cold and idle smooth and consistent all the time
All will simply "rest" at the 1000rpm idle speed even when the throttle is slammed shut from wide open no matter the duration
All pull consistently from idle to redline
All respond instantly to "fast stabs" of the throttle
Plugs are dark grey in the center and dark brown on the ring

I don't know how it all is if they were attached to all that fancy afr meters and dynos and all, but my bikes always run and run well. They are also plenty powerfull enough for me.

Yes it is possible to tune cv's and do it properly. They run better than most bikes I see, old or new.
Call dj and get their suggested kit for your mods, install per directions, then tune to your liking following the directions.

Just my experience with this whole thing.....

 

[Katarat]

You've got something else going on ? No way you should have mains that big and still popping on decel. Are you sure your intake manifolds aren't leaking ?

 

[astradaryl]

Just to add to this thread I'll post my settings

1977 gs750
ape podfilters
4-1 free flowing open baffle exhaust
main jet 117.5
pilot jet 15 (standard)
needle 1 notch up from full rich
fuel screws 1 full turn out from lightly seated
air screws 2.25 out
sea level

A few pops on decel but I'm runing a a 54mm open can so to be expected. I'm happy with the setting a nice Bunsen blue from the colour tune and cold starts and rides lovley.

mabye a starting point for some one with similar mods

 

[Guest]

Off the subject, saw this pop up in the "new posts". What happened to the OP "MisterCinders"? I remember quite well when he was a regular on the site, now it says he is a guest

 

[robbiem1961]

Popping and banging on the overun /deceleration? Air being sucked into exhaust; remove exhaust, gouge out and discard exhaust gasket in exhaust port and fit new ones, refit the down pipes ensuring exhaust clamp is level and pulling up evenly; though not so tight as to prevent you moving them to fit silencer; smear exhaust gasket/cement around down pipes where they enter the collector box/silencer and fit, hanging the silencer on the mounting bolt: starting at the exhaust manifold, tighten the 8 bolts securing the down pipe clamps, next tighten the bolt(s) securing the down pipes to silencer; the nut/bolt mounting the rear footpeg and silencer is the last to be tightened:
When i remove a cylinder head i always take the opportunity to remove seized and damaged exhaust bolts, i'm lucky in as much that being a welder/steelworker i have ready access to oxy-acetylene, for warming(heating) aluminium to free off seized bolts; many times grinding a bolt to a point and welding it onto the top of the broken bolt/stud will cause enough shrinkage to enable easy removal:
I ALWAYS fit stainless steel studs into the head exhaust ports, coated in copper slip anti seize grease, and nuts onto these, my reasoning being, 1. You know that all the thread in the head is taking load, as opposed to a bolt that shares the load as more screws in: 2 you can also fit dual sizes studs should the bolt hole already be damaged 3 as the studs have been coated in copper slip should they require removal it should not present a problem of any description: stainless steel is not of particularly high tensile strength but having said that i have not encountered any problems thus far.
Hope it all goes well for you; cheers mate Robbie

 

[SoHum]

Well, due to having bought a bike with no airbox, I decided to just try pods out. I bought a pair of Uni double foam filters and a 6-Sigma jet kit. They supplied two sizes of main jets, pilot jets, a couple of drill bits in case I wanted to do wilder mods (which the instructions warn repeatedly can cause low speed/throttle drivability problems and should only be performed for racing purposes), and several shims for the fuel needles, as well as a pretty good set of instructions. The kit was reasonably priced ($56 shipped for a two carb kit) and they sent me an email asking about any mods and normal riding elevation. Then I went and bought aftermarket mufflers afterwards, like an idiot, but they're supposed to be baffled and all that so hopefully the main jets and supplied extra shims will be enough. I'm almost done putting the bike back together, so hopefully in a couple of weeks I will be able to comment on how it runs with these- I bought the thick foam pods hoping they would be less finnicky than the screen and cotton style.

 

[Rob S.]

Keep us informed.

 

[Mister Cinders]

Off the subject, saw this pop up in the "new posts". What happened to the OP "MisterCinders"? I remember quite well when he was a regular on the site, now it says he is a guest

Hello folks!

I was purged for inactivity, but (like MacArthur) have returned. Been playing with other toys that distracted me from the bike.

Like this:

and this:

 

[Brad sweet]

I have an 81 GS750e with large K&N pods...just got this and got it running....my question is at part throttle in 4th gear and highly noticeable in 5th part throttle cruising seams to be surging...idles great and has good power mid range but top end needs more power..assuming jetting will fix that..what size do you recommend..it has a baffled vance and hines 4 into 1 with the stock Mikuni CVs...any recommendations on needle height?

 

[blowerbike]

so you have adjustable needles for sure?

 

[Brad sweet]

i need to pull one and check..

 

[duaneage]

Do high speed plug chops and read them. No one can tell you what to do from riding descriptions.

 

[Ric]

Referencing this link:
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carbspec_float_height.html
Your bike came with 112.5 mains and 42.5 pilots.

According to this link:
http://motorcycles.wikia.com/wiki/Rejetting
You need 127.5 main jets and 47.5 pilots.

Raise your needles about a mm, as per the WAG method(WAG - wild-@$$ guess).

 

[boris.h]

Hi everybody
Sorry for diusturbing everyone, with my "case"...
I have a GS 550 E 1979, with VM22SS carbs, 4/1 with smg like a free megaphone exhaust, and a grid into the airbox....
Historically, I puted 110 mains and had a "lean" behaviour... I did yesterday plug chops at WOT and half throttle (to see about the needle position), my spark plugs were very.... white. I tested 120 mains, but I could not go up 3000 rpm.... I am putting 115 mains now, with the clip on the 3rd position. I will try it tonight or tomorrow. I am so surprised that, with a free 4/1 exhaust, and a grid into the airbox, that I have to increase the size of mains about 40 / 45%!!! I think a grid into the airbox is a good solution to increase performance.

http://imagesia.com/20150323-225342_vxi0