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Points gap nonexistant?

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheDuke
  • Start date Start date
T

TheDuke

Guest
So, in my first attempt to set the points gap after rebuilding the motor I'm finding that they never appear to open when I rotate the crank. The manual says to set it at TDC for 1/4 and set the gap then. But the gap appears fully closed at that point. Even when I rotate it, I'm not seeing any movement. My points looks similar to those below. What the hell am I doing wrong?

 
Do you see those two little posts right next to the little slot in each set of points? Slightly loosen the two screws holding 'a' set of points, stick a screwdriver between the two pins and into the slot and rotate it until you get the proper gap. Lock down the screws. Rinse, wash and repeat for the other set of points.

TheDuke said:
The manual says to set it at TDC for 1/4 and set the gap then.
Click to expand...
 
rustybronco said:
Do you see those two little posts right next to the little slot in each set of points? Slightly loosen the two screws holding 'a' set of points, stick a screwdriver between the two pins and into the slot and rotate it until you get the proper gap. Lock down the screws. Rinse, wash and repeat for the other set of points.
Click to expand...

BRILLIANT! That was the missing link. I knew I was just missing something because I couldn't figure out where the adjustment was made even IF there was a gap and it was incorrect. I love this forum, you guys save me so much heartache.
 
It's also possible to time the bike with a light.
Set the crank to the F mark, move the plate until the light just starts to glow and your in.
I had to do this once under tough circumstances on my '76 Honda 550 four.
 
Also note that the points open and close as the part that rides on the crank end rides up on a slight lobe built into it.

If you look at the crank youll see the slightly lobed area and what I do is get the part of the point that rides on the crank as close to the very top of that lobe as I can and then check the timing mark.

Now that its at the top of the lobe AND the timing marks right, I set the gaps I also make a sharpy line on the big 19MM nut once I find the very center of that lobe so next time all I gotta do is line up the mark with the plastic part on the points and set the gaps again.

Sounds complicated but it isnt.
 
chuck hahn said:
Now that its at the top of the lobe AND the timing marks right, I set the gaps I also make a sharpy line on the big 19MM nut once I find the very center of that lobe so next time all I gotta do is line up the mark with the plastic part on the points and set the gaps again.
Click to expand...

Great advise. I will make sure to mark it to make it easier in the future.
 
TheDuke said:
I replaced the points but not the condensers. Should I go ahead and replace those too?
Click to expand...

I would, especially if they were of unknown age. They last a lot longer than points but do break down eventually, and there is no way to visually inspect them for wear.
 
Sometimes you can tell. If the points have big sparks at the contacts as the bike runs, the condensers aren't doing much good. The points are burning up quickly as the sparks are taking bits of metal away. The condensers can also just die suddenly.
 
Replace the condensors, they are much more likely to fail without warning,especially if they are old.
 
Bad condensers can make weird things happen, like it might run, and sound ok, but you put it in gear, and it can't pull a load.

I got a free GS850G once, because the PO said it was blown. It had 2 extra quarts of oil in it, and a blown condenser. It was a good bike, until my nephew wrecked it. OEM condensers and points cost almost as much as a Dyna electronic ignition. There are less expensive aftermarket parts out there, but I bought the expensive OEM. Didn't know the options.
 
Or just spring for a new Dyna ignition, throw the points and condensers in the trash, and don't look back.
 
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