Polishing my motor

[Admiral Beez]

Aircraft stripper works to a degree. There will still be some sanding needed, but that will be easier after the stripper. As for the emblems, use a heat gun to soften the adhesive.

Thanks. This stuff?

https://www.eastwood.com/klean-strip-aircraft-paint-remover-aerosol.html

 

[jsandidge]

No. The aerosol version is not very good from my experience. You can brush this stuff on.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ls&gclid=CJCc3snB7tsCFc3mswodUMcDzg&gclsrc=ds

 

[Steve]

When using the aircraft stripper, USE IT CAREFULLY.

Use gloves. The stuff is NASTY and burns the skin nearly instantly.

Use safety glasses or goggles or a face shield. The stuff is a gel, but can still splash.

Then, for a bit of humor, read the label. My can says "Not to be used on aircraft." :-\\\

.

 

[Admiral Beez]

When using the aircraft stripper, USE IT CAREFULLY.

Use gloves. The stuff is NASTY and burns the skin nearly instantly.

Use safety glasses or goggles or a face shield. The stuff is a gel, but can still splash.

Then, for a bit of humor, read the label. My can says "Not to be used on aircraft." :-\\\

.

Will do, thanks. Is it safe to contact the gaskets behind the covers?

 

[Steve]

Is it safe to contact the gaskets behind the covers?

I don't know. :-k

I have always used it when the covers are off the engine for polishing, so there were no gaskets in the vicinity. :-\\\

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[Admiral Beez]

I don't know. :-k

I have always used it when the covers are off the engine for polishing, so there were no gaskets in the vicinity. :-\\\

.

If I remove the covers, is it difficult to put the stator back on? As I understand it, the stator is held onto the cover? 1982 GS650G. If the covers are just covers without items affixed to them I'd be more confident about pulling them off.

 

[Steve]

The stator is, indeed, attached to the cover. There is oil behind the cover. You don't have to drain the oil if you put the left foot of the centerstand on a 2x4. Since you will have to move the cover away from the bike, you will also need to separate the stator wires from the R/R inputs. That will at least involve removing the starter cover. I don't remember if you can do that on a 650 without removing the carbs. Pretty sure the carbs have to come off for access to a 550 starter cover, not sure about the 650.

It's actually MUCH more stable than in looks.

Note the new gasket behind the stator cover. I had just changed the stator and polished the cover.

.

 

[Admiral Beez]

I?ll polish the engine on the bike, without removing anything. This is my only bike and it?s riding reason. This winter I plan to pull off the tank to have it painted and have the sending unit rebuilt.

As for the engine, what do I need? I have both corded and cordless electric drills. I?ve also got a polishing kit of compounds and small cones and disks. But I think I need a big sisal disk. And what direction of rotation do I polish, with the drill sideways or front facing? I appreciate both orientations require a different type of disk.

 

[850 Combat]

I like the finish on your 450. I prefer Blue Magic to Mothers, if you go that way.

 

[Admiral Beez]

I started working on my bike now that it is nice out. I'd like to give my little 450 some luster and I have some plans to refurbish the appearance a little. Nothing big. I noticed a lot of people here polish their engines so I figured I would give it a try. I didn't want to take the covers off so I sanded the clear coat off then worked my way up with finer and finer grit wet sand. Then I used rubbing compound and topped it off with metal polish. I really like the results, though I don't know how some of you get the shine you do. I stopped at 1500 grit, maybe that has something to do with it (the store didn't have 2000 grit). I also did it all by hand, so maybe that played a role.

Anyways, let me see if I can get you some pictures. Clutch side that has not been touched yet:

I’ve been holding off polishing my “new” GS650G as I wanted to make sure it was mechanically sound. But after 1,000 km she’s running great, so time to make the bike shine a little.

You've inspired me to give polishing the motor in the frame a try. Here’s the starting point. I’ve ordered new crank case emblems. I’ve got a polishing kit with sisal wheel from a motorcycle show, and a corded drill.

I also want to clean up the metal bits and repaint with Tremclad. Is matte, gloss or semi gloss the best match? I’m thinking semi gloss or matte, since I’m not painting the whole frame, but touching up parts. This would include the stands, motor mounts, front brake reservoir (paints gone, I assume from brake fluid split) and handle bar centre bar.

 

[Admiral Beez]

So far so good. Went at both sides with 400 and 600 grit wet sandpaper. Got most of the clear coat and oxidation off.

I?m leaving the old emblems in place until I finish the polishing with my drill and white compound.

question, what the the best way to get the emblems off? One side is so damaged I think I can pull it off, but the other side is on solid.

 

[Admiral Beez]

Here?s my final effort for this week, brown and white compounds and pads bought at 2009 bike show, and my cordless drill. Still some nooks and crannies to do, but I?m sufficiently satisfied to switch over to tremclad touch up painting the frame next.


Anyone have a nonpaint stripper idea for removing the case emblem on one side and the goo residue left from the other I managed to pull off?

 

[jsandidge]

Anyone have a nonpaint stripper idea for removing the case emblem on one side and the goo residue left from the other I managed to pull off?

Heat gun....

 

[Admiral Beez]

Heat gun....

I have a heat gun for the wife's crafting, but surely the glue adhering the emblem to the motor is heat resistant?

 

[ChunderMifflin]

I'd try aircraft stripper if it's that bad.