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Poll: To override, or not to overide Anti-dive

  • Thread starter Thread starter bryan
  • Start date Start date

Poll: To override, or not to overide Anti-dive

  • Yes. It doesn't seem to do a darn thing anyway.

    Votes: 5 55.6%

  • Leave it alone. The bike was designed that way for a reason.

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .
B

bryan

Guest
The overwhelming sentiment seems to be to override the anti-dive system, but I'm still reluctant to change it from the way it was originally engineered. However, a little extra braking power on this old bike would be nice. What do you think?

1) Override anti-dive. It doesn't seem to do a darn thing anyway.
2) Leave it alone. It was designed that way for a reason.
 
Anti-dive was a fad during the early 80’s – along with air forks. I removed the anti-dive from my old 750ES and made blank off plates with a channel between the holes to allow fluid to flow properly. Only reason to keep it would be if you were doing a restoration and want to keep the bike stock.
 
Go with progressive springs, spacers, and scrap the 'fancy' crap.
Unless, as Ed mentioned, you're going resto to stock. If the rest of the bike warrants a full restoration...keep it. :-s
 
I say if it still is functioning then leave it, but I wouldn't try repairing it....just delete it

Duro
 
Still got mine. Standing still.....the harder you grab the front brake the stiffer the forks get. Still works as advertised. :)
 
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I can't really vote in the poll because I have not experienced a GS with anti-dive.

I kinda like the second option, though, because it opens a whole 'nother can of worms.
How many other things have we changed on our bikes in spite of the fact that "they were designed that way for a reason"? :-k

The more I hear you guys gripe about the anti-dive system on the GSs, the more I like the system on my Wing. The caliper mounts on an arm that is anchored to the fork leg with a pivot. The other end of the arm is attached to the end of the anti-dive piston. When the brakes are activated, the caliper moves forward about 3-6mm, activating the anti-dive. This mechanical action takes absolutely no feel away from the brakes and also does not delay brake action any more than the time it takes the brake rotor to rotate about 3-6mm.

Although there are mechanisms in each fork leg, they activate at different times. The braking system on the Wing (and some other large bikes) is set up so that the left front caliper is connected to the rear wheel brakes and the right front caliper is the only one controlled by the hand lever. Yeah, I don't like it either, but I have gotten used to it. It is nice, though, that if I only activate one brake system, I only get half the anti-dive effect. If I activate both systems, maximum anti-dive is in effect. Overall, it actually works quite well.

.
 
Mine still seem to work. The brakes do feel a bit soft at first pull but since I have not bled the brakes since taking ownership, I cannot state if that softness is from the anti-dive or some air somewhere.
 
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