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Poor Handling Bike. GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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:oops: As most of you know I have been restoring an 83 GS1100E since Oct. Well it handles like crap. It feels like it is hinged in the middle going through curves. Going down the street it feels like a pogo stick. At any speed over 60 mph it feels wobbly and disconcerting. It is actually kind of scary. It is making me want to give up and get a new bike. But I really like Big Blue and do not want to part with it. I will tell you what I have checked and replaced and what I have not. Maybe you will have some suggestions for me.

What has been done:
1. New Cheng Shen tires front and rear that supposedly were spin balanced. But the the rear has two weights on it which seems to be a red flag. I have checked to make sure the beads are seated properly. Also I have the recommended 24 front and 28 rear psi in the tires.
2. Presumeably 20 yr old stock springs with 1/2 spacers to stiffen them up a bit. New fork seals with the correct weight(15w) fork in the proper amount. 10 psi of air in the forks.
3. My old swingarm had a bearing seize because of previous owner letting the chain saw into the arm. I put a used arm on with good looking bearings. I checked for bearing play with the wheel and shocks off as specified. It was ok. How can you tell if the arm is tweaked. When the wheel is straight the adjuster marks are off by 2 or 3 marks. It even has been engraved with +1 on the left side of the arm. I figured they maybe why I got it so cheap. Tried the original 83 shocks and a set off a 81 1100 and could not see a difference.
4. New steering stem bearings that have been properly adjusted.

Things not done.
1.Wheel bearings and cush drive.

Please help me if you can. I do not mind spending more money if I know it will be fixed. I just do not want to spend and still have an unrideable bike.
Thank you very much,
Mike D.
 
I've got a copy of a chassis alignment article from the "Wrenching with Rob" series. The link to where I got it from originally is broke.
If you can't find it out there in Internet land and would like to try it send me your address and I'll send you a copy of it.
 
MIKE
MY 83 1100e HANDLED LIKE A COAL BARGE. QUITE BY ACCIDENT I HAVE IT HANDLINS A BIT ON THE QUICK SIDE. THE SHIMMY USED TO FRIGHTEN ME AND I FINALLY TOOK IT TO A HARLEY SHOP AND WATCHED THE FELLOW DO AN ELECTRONIC BALLANCE ON THE FRONT WHELL AND NOW NO MORE SHIMMY.

In order to accomodate my pro stock exhaust i was forced to change the fron wheel to a 16 inch diameter. that quickened the steering . When i put the 1 1/2 inch shorter shocks on the rear and progressive springs in the tubes it lowered the center of gravity and the bike feels like it is actually light. Now i need a dampening device to counter the action that occurs when i hit something with the front wheel.
It is a diffrent motorcycle now. I am the worst rider in corners but it will do well with a more talented rider.
 
The most common cause of steering wobble is loose steering bearings. I know you say they were properly adjusted,but I thought the same thing. I did mine according to the factory manual. I tightened it so it turned with no drag and had no play. I got on the bike and at 85 mph it just started wobbling and surprised the heck out of me. I re-checked the whole bike and could'nt understand it. So I decided to tighten it about 1/3 turn more even though I was sure I had done it right. I thought it might start dragging but it did'nt and of course,there was again,no play. I took it out and the wobble was completely gone,even past 120. Sometimes,you cannot tell if there is play until you ride it. What feels good in the garage does not always feel good on the road. Try it again,unless you can definitely feel the bearings drag.You may even have to tighten a bit more. It won't cost a thing and you can put it right back where it was if it does'nt help. Bearings are sometimes funny. I know other people who have had the same experience. Good luck and let us know! KK.
PS:you should be able to test for wheel bearing play the same way as the swingarm. Grab the tire at top and bottom and try to rock it. Get a pretty girl to sit on the back of the seat and check the front.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
The most common cause of steering wobble is loose steering bearings. I know you say they were properly adjusted,but I thought the same thing. I did mine according to the factory manual. I tightened it so it turned with no drag and had no play. I got on the bike and at 85 mph it just started wobbling and surprised the heck out of me. I re-checked the whole bike and could'nt understand it. So I decided to tighten it about 1/3 turn more even though I was sure I had done it right. I thought it might start dragging but it did'nt and of course,there was again,no play. I took it out and the wobble was completely gone,even past 120. Sometimes,you cannot tell if there is play until you ride it. What feels good in the garage does not always feel good on the road. Try it again,unless you can definitely feel the bearings drag.You may even have to tighten a bit more. It won't cost a thing and you can put it right back where it was if it does'nt help. Bearings are sometimes funny. I know other people who have had the same experience. Good luck and let us know! KK.
PS:you should be able to test for wheel bearing play the same way as the swingarm. Grab the tire at top and bottom and try to rock it. Get a pretty girl to sit on the back of the seat and check the front.
Click to expand...

I did that. I tightened them way up until I had some drag. Left them with a little drag. Still funky. But thanks for your suggestion. It might help someone else in the future. :)
 
Mike, I know that you tried 2 different sets of old shocks on the rear but insufficent damping will give the effect you describe. I have a 1983 GS750ES with remotely adjustable rear damping, which I adjusted for carried weight (e.g. passenger). I did this for years but still noticed a "hinged" feeling to the bike if the bike hit a bump while laden and cranked over in a bend. Then one day while digging into the bike's innards to clean all wiring harness connectors, I found the damping adjuster cable was not connected to the bottom of the monoshock and it was therefore permanently in the "softest" setting. I reattached the cable and upped the damping......"hinge effect" now gone in corners. The higher the rider weight (plus luggage or passenger, if applicable) the more you need to have stronger damping.
 
I would check the bearings in the steering head unit. Where the shocks get mounted. It is going to require a complete disassembly of the front end of the bike. If you have checked all the other possible sources then this might be your last bet.
 
cspencer said:
I would check the bearings in the steering head unit. Where the shocks get mounted. It is going to require a complete disassembly of the front end of the bike. If you have checked all the other possible sources then this might be your last bet.
Click to expand...

Thanks but the steering head bearings are brand new and correctly adjusted.
 
Air pressure set at 24 and 28psi? I would bump the front to 30-35 before trying anything else. Just curious...have you been riding a modern bike? The reason I ask this is that when I had my '96 ZX6R and would ride my GS1100 the GS was actually scarry to ride and got to the point where it (the GS) sat in the garage most of the time. Now that my modern bike is an '83 GS750 the 1100 doesn't feel quite as bad.
 
This is not a problem this is endemic to the 1100E. The rear shocks seem suspect to me. If you are using 20 year old units, the damping may be shot. It sounds like you did a nice job restoring this bike - how about purchasing a first-rate set of rear shocks? Also, I've never used Chen Shen tires so I have nothing to go on here, but next set I would suggest getting a nice pair of Dunlops or Metzler, or Conti's. They may cost a bit more but why go cheap on tires?

Sounds like you did a nice restoration - any pics?
 
moto_dan said:
Air pressure set at 24 and 28psi? I would bump the front to 30-35 before trying anything else.
Click to expand...

When I bought my '81 1100E it had new Pirelli "Match" tires. I dutifully set the tire pressures as per my owners manual: Solo riding 25/28 (front/rear), Dual riding 28/36, Continuous high speed riding Solo 28/36, Continuous high speed riding Dual 32/40. The bike wandered and didn't feel settled during usual city riding. I inquired with some bike mechanics and was advised that modern tires need more air. I started running 30/36 in the city. Much better!
You should probably seek some advice from Cheng Shen and/or your dealer before acting on this advice. Good luck.
I'm looking forward to Progressive Suspension parts front and back this Spring, and I'll post the results.
 
moto_dan said:
Air pressure set at 24 and 28psi? I would bump the front to 30-35 before trying anything else. Just curious...have you been riding a modern bike? The reason I ask this is that when I had my '96 ZX6R and would ride my GS1100 the GS was actually scarry to ride and got to the point where it (the GS) sat in the garage most of the time. Now that my modern bike is an '83 GS750 the 1100 doesn't feel quite as bad.
Click to expand...

I have a 2001 Suzuki Marauder. Its a cruiser. It it totally less violent than the GS
 
Swanny said:
This is not a problem this is endemic to the 1100E. The rear shocks seem suspect to me. If you are using 20 year old units, the damping may be shot. It sounds like you did a nice job restoring this bike - how about purchasing a first-rate set of rear shocks? Also, I've never used Chen Shen tires so I have nothing to go on here, but next set I would suggest getting a nice pair of Dunlops or Metzler, or Conti's. They may cost a bit more but why go cheap on tires?

Sounds like you did a nice restoration - any pics?
Click to expand...

Not real greatpics but here are some
fcbfc558.jpg

fcbfc589.jpg

fcbfc554.jpg
 
For tire pressure go by what it says on the tire NOT by what it says in the manual
 
Hmmmmmm....

I think I see your problem, but would it require hands on work to take care of it. If you could leave it with me for say ..... a year or two... no more than a decade... I believe it can be worked out :) .



Very nice looking bike!.

Do want to look at the chassis alignment article I mentioned earlier? I haven't "found" it again on any website.
 
pjackson - very nice job! looks great. I pitched my stock shocks over 10 years ago and purchased a set of Koni's and never looked back. Best investment I made.
 
Mookie said:
For tire pressure go by what it says on the tire NOT by what it says in the manual
Click to expand...

Meaning no disrespect, this shouldn't be the last word on how to set tire pressures either. The markings on the tire indicate maximum load capacity at maximum safe inflation levels. In my case, that would put my front tire at 42 psi. Probably not dangerous, but certainly too firm for comfort. Regardless, I'd check with someone smarter than me before I put 42 psi into a 22-year-old cast rim designed for a maximum of 32 psi.

As a general rule, it's usually suggested that you run a couple of psi above what the manual recommends if using original equipment tires on a stock bike. This allows reasonable comfort and handling on bikes ridden in a reasonable fashion. Once the tires are replaced with another model or brand, all bets are off, and I would seek the advice of the tire manufacturer. And, as I've learned, advances in tire technology left my owner's manual recommendations useless.
 
pjackson said:
Hmmmmmm....

I think I see your problem, but would it require hands on work to take care of it. If you could leave it with me for say ..... a year or two... no more than a decade... I believe it can be worked out :) .



Very nice looking bike!.

Do want to look at the chassis alignment article I mentioned earlier? I haven't "found" it again on any website.
Click to expand...

Thanks :) If you could send it to me at angmic@attbi.com I would highly appreciate it
 
Does the 1100E have the 16 inch front wheel ? If so it is probably very sensitive to steering input , I was fooling with my screen trying to reduce wind noise at the helmet and tryed it without the mirrors on the bars, the difference in straight line stability was surprising and I concuded that wind was applying enough presure on the bars via the mirrors to have a noicabl e effect in straight line stability .

By the way I rode a late model GSXR1100 the other day and the stability was amazing , so dont compare new against old .

Dave
 
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