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Popping????

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Excellent message board!!!! I have a 82 GS 1100 that I bought a couple of months ago. It has one dyna coil and one stock coil installed, taylor spark plug wires, supertrapp exhaust, and I have no idea if it has been jetted or anything. The problem that I am having is that when warm or cold, it pops....and not out of the exhaust....sounds like from the front of the engine....any ideas???? It's embarrassing when at a stop light, she pops!!!! I'm thinking that it may be that one(?) stock coil.
 
Well for starters you shouldn't mix coils. They should both be the same. The Dyna coil is more efficeint and slightly more powerful. As for the popping I don't think that is what is causing it.

Maybe the timing is off? Not sure.
 
Make sure your coils are a matched pair and then re-fit your exhaust system as it is possible the popping is an exhaust leak where the headers meet up to the head at the exhaust port. The other possibilities is a blown head gasket but that is unlikely, or the bike is running rich on the cylinders running off the genuine coil and it is unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust pipe causing the popping sound
 
you may want to take a can of carb. cleaner and spray around your intakes and see if yu have an intake leak
 
Carb intake manifolds

Carb intake manifolds

The carburetor intake hoses very often crack due to old age, heat and cold, etc. They will cause an intake leak, even when everything else is fine. They should be replaced with new ones, not used ones; it's false economy to get used ones. They're expensive ($25 to $30 each), but well worth it.

Nick
 
popping

popping

It definately sound like an air leak. I had similar on my 78 GS750, it was running way to lean and this made it pop at idle. And yes, make sure the coils are a matched pair. Another simple thing to do is check out the exhaust gaskets. They are so cheap to buy. Remove the downpipes, dig out the old gaskets (rings) from the exhaust ports on the cylinder head, clean the ports then fit new gaskets. Make sure you tighten up the the exhaust bolts good and proper. To hear the popping, remove the exhaust and run the engine. You will see a blue flame POP out of the exhaust ports. It could be this simple.
 
When you put the new manifolds on did you replace the o rings if its like mine the manifolds bolt on to the head these get hard and crack this will cause what you are describing. If its like my E X its different from the shaft drive bikes I have one of each the boots themselves will develope cracks and cause that cylinder to go lean. if all this stuff is up to par then check your air screws if they are set to lean it will pop at idle and when you let off of it if it starts breaking up just above mid range when you really hammer it one of the coils could be going bad or you need to jet it up . I hope this helps The wood wright
 
Thanks for the great ideas, I'll go ahead and pull my exhaust and re-align everything this weekend, then as soon as I get a little cash, spring for a matched set of coils.
 
I finally got enough cash saved up to fix my problems. I put another dyna coil on the bike, and you all were right about the popping cause, bad intake boots. Replaced them yesterday and what a difference!!
Unfortunately, after tearing the bike down to repair all of this, I forgot to label where all the hoses go!!! The only one that I am having trouble with is the left side carbeurator hose (there is a small fitting inbetween the left outside carb and left inside carb. and left as in sitting on the bike). Where does it go??? I am definately having some type of vacuum leak, because the bike runs real rough, and idles way to high. Example, if I rev the bike, it wants to stay revved. Any ideas???
 
No it sure doesn't... I'll tell you what I have for lines and where they are routed to. There is a line that goes from inbetween the outside right carb and inside right carb that goes to the right side of the gas tank, by where the fuel sending unit is... then there is a line that goes to the left side of the tank which is the primary fuel line, then another that also goes to the left side of the tank that is also attached to the petcock. the only one that i am missing is the far left line...
 
Hose Routing

Hose Routing

Find the carb rebuild section on this site and I think the hoses are labeled there.
 
Hoses

Hoses

I just went out and looked at mine. Its an 82 1100GL. It looks like I have three lines. The main one of course is the fuel line. The one between the two left carbs is the vacuum line to the petcock. The one that's between the right two carbs looks like a vent line. It goes over the airbox and down behind the motor. I don't know if this will help you. I looked at the service manual but they don't show anything but the fuel and the vacuum line. Let us know what you find.
Al
 
Alan,
Are you sure about your lines? Usually there are 4 lines from the 4 carbs. Small vent line between 1-2 and 3-4, routed above the air box. Main Fuel supply(largest of the lines) between 2 - 3 and connected to petcock. Vacuum line from #2 intake(engine side) to petcock. :?
 
Hoses

Hoses

Dan,
I didn't see the other vent line, although with the tank on, it's hard to say. So do you think that the line that draggings can't find a place for is just the second vent line?
 
Well, I checked out the carb rebuild section and found out that the tube that I am talking about is a vent line....Unfortunately, I think that I may be delaying the inevitable, that I probably have something in my carbs, and that is why my bike is running so crappy right now. It ran like a raped ape before I took it apart to replace the carb boots, now, when I fire it up, it idles like a champ, but then when I barely move the bike to get on, it will idle up like crazy, like I've got the throttle 1/4 open. Then when I get to riding, it feels as though I've got something blocking off the carbs, as though it isn't getting any fuel at all, or as though it's missing a couple of cylinders. (plugs look great) Any ideas? or should I go ahead and tear it apart and see what I can find?
 
Does moving the handlebars side to side while sitting still change the idle? If so, your cable is too tight or bending unusually. As far as running problems, sounds like you may have knocked some crud loose moving the carb bank. For everyone's info: www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html is a very informative page on how to setup CV carbs. The only thing I don't understand on the instructions is that they say to start with the main jet and work your way down to idle speed settings. Other places I've looked go about it the opposite way. Anybody know which method is right?
 
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