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POR-15 black velvet on cylinders

  • Thread starter Thread starter gsryder
  • Start date Start date
G

gsryder

Guest
Has anyone used the POR-15 high heat (Black velvet) on there cylinders??

If so any feed back negative-positive over heating issues etc.?
 
Should be fine although the finish is flat, not semi gloss. Another option is gunkote.
 
Also, if youre looking to pick up a little exhaust scavenging. TechLine makes a Black Satin that is flat.
 
Don't have time right now to go into it fully, but I used Black Velvet on my cases and valve cover but got my cylinders and head wet blasted. I haven't run the engine yet to see how it goes.

Preparation must be perfect and then some or it will peel.
 
Nessism said:
Should be fine although the finish is flat, not semi gloss. Another option is gunkote.
Click to expand...

I used gun kote on my whole engine that stuff is awesome to say the least.
But this is for a friend I am trying to help out that does not want to break his engine down to be able to bake the paint.....so I am looking for another alternative. Something I can paint on and let the engine temp do the baking.
The POR web-site just doesnt give you a warm fuzzy feeling about painting aluminum with the black velvet.

Here is a pic of mine.....
Bikestuff002.jpg

Picture006.jpg

I also painted the rims, engine brackets, pegs, all the parts that I didnt want to rust. The gun cote is tough as nails.
 
pete said:
Don't have time right now to go into it fully, but I used Black Velvet on my cases and valve cover but got my cylinders and head wet blasted. I haven't run the engine yet to see how it goes.

Preparation must be perfect and then some or it will peel.
Click to expand...

Would love to see a pic or two if you get the time.
 
jwhelan65 said:
So how will the gun coat hold up to the heat?
Click to expand...

Gun-kote is chemical resistant and actually needs heat to cure properly - something like 300 F. It's also reputed to be wear resistant. Pretty good stuff.
 
gsryder said:
Would love to see a pic or two if you get the time.
Click to expand...

Okely dokely, sorry, just saw the thread in passing as I was about to log off.

Anyways, have a look at posts 431 and 448 in my rebuild thread for how the cases turned out with the black velvet.

In addition, have a look through this thread to see my confusion as to what to use:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135476&highlight=por

Towards the end you'll see before and after pic's of my first painting efforts with the Black Velvet.

Take note that my preparation wasn't perfect and I had to do a touch up later on. With the POR 15 heat paints, preparation really is everything. If it's not perfect, I wouldn't start painting.

Dunno if I'd recommend doing this without pulling the engine apart or not. The good thing is that if you thin it just a little with the POR 15 solvent, it brushes on really well. I decided against painting the cylinders and head mainly due to not seeing an easy way to prepare the fins and other hard to reach places, which is why I ended up getting them wet blasted.

I used a BBQ to get the curing started, but the POR 15 guy here in Aus said the engine heat would be sufficient to cure it, so from that perspective you can definitely keep the engine in the bike and have the paint cured by running it.

Hope that helps somewhat and apologies if it's a bit rambling or not making 100% sense but I've had a few tasty beverages for Australia Day today...
 
pete said:
Okely dokely, sorry, just saw the thread in passing as I was about to log off.

Anyways, have a look at posts 431 and 448 in my rebuild thread for how the cases turned out with the black velvet.

In addition, have a look through this thread to see my confusion as to what to use:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135476&highlight=por

Towards the end you'll see before and after pic's of my first painting efforts with the Black Velvet.

Take note that my preparation wasn't perfect and I had to do a touch up later on. With the POR 15 heat paints, preparation really is everything. If it's not perfect, I wouldn't start painting.

Dunno if I'd recommend doing this without pulling the engine apart or not. The good thing is that if you thin it just a little with the POR 15 solvent, it brushes on really well. I decided against painting the cylinders and head mainly due to not seeing an easy way to prepare the fins and other hard to reach places, which is why I ended up getting them wet blasted.

I used a BBQ to get the curing started, but the POR 15 guy here in Aus said the engine heat would be sufficient to cure it, so from that perspective you can definitely keep the engine in the bike and have the paint cured by running it.

Hope that helps somewhat and apologies if it's a bit rambling or not making 100% sense but I've had a few tasty beverages for Australia Day today...
Click to expand...

Thank you.
 
jwhelan65 said:
How is it applied?
Click to expand...

Once it is on it is unbelievably tough. I took a test piece (oil filter cover)
painted it baked it per the instructions.......you can beat the crap out of it with a hammer it will dent the aluminum and the gun kote will just flex with the aluminum. You can get it to chip eventually after beating it enough but as far as real world abuse the stuff is awesome.
 
gsryder said:
Once it is on it is unbelievably tough. I took a test piece (oil filter cover)
painted it baked it per the instructions.......you can beat the crap out of it with a hammer it will dent the aluminum and the gun kote will just flex with the aluminum. You can get it to chip eventually after beating it enough but as far as real world abuse the stuff is awesome.
Click to expand...

That's impressive! The Black Velvet won't do that though... to be honest I found it a little softer than I was expecting, but having said that, it's only been baked once for half an hour and its had no engine temperature cycles yet.
 
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