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positive or negative effect on handling?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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As the "streetfighter" mod the gs 550 continues, I have a question regarding the effect on handling ride heights have.
I replaced the stock rear shocks with a longer (by about 1.5") progressive spring shocks and plan on lowering the front by about the same. The intent is to give the bike a more forward looking stance. My question is will this slingshot me out of the saddle on a turn or wobble me out at high speeds?
 
The wobble seems like the most likely situation as you'll be steepening the forks which will create quicker steering. 1 1/2" front and rear seems excessive to me, but then again I've never tried anything like that. As long as you're up to being the test pilot have at it. Over the years I've learned from other peoples experiences that you can only go so far from stock before bad things start to happen very quickly. I'm pretty conservitive in my "old" age. LOL... not.
 
Test pilot...as long as I don't screw the pooch. Thanks for the confirmation, I guess that solidifies the installation of a steering dampener.
Mike
 
I lowered both the front and rear of my 1100e and the steering is so much quicker--I need a dampner and have it on my wish list-but the front end lowering in my case was done by using a smaller wheel which will almost always have quicker steering. I was just thinking that you should pay attention to what happens to the center of gravity. Again in my case by lowering both front and rear the bike was much nicer handlind ((except for getting used to the quicker steering. I just wanted to throw some information at you-- I know nothing abot setting up a chassis
 
I didn't think about the CG issue. True, lowering the front will quicken the steering. It seems everybody lowers the rear and I have gone an raised it...anybody know where I can get body armor for the initial test flight.
Thanks .02 cents.
 
mikellyjo said:
I didn't think about the CG issue. True, lowering the front will quicken the steering. It seems everybody lowers the rear and I have gone an raised it...anybody know where I can get body armor for the initial test flight.
Thanks .02 cents.
Click to expand...

Please try movin this thread to the Q&A section this area is just for tips and tricks
 
But on the other hand, once his bike TIPS his body will do lots of TRICKS!
 
scotty, what do you mean by your bike steers quiker? does it fall into corners?
 
rick romero said:
scotty, what do you mean by your bike steers quiker? does it fall into corners?
Click to expand...

Prior to installing the 16 inch front wheel, The gs1100e was like steering a very large boat that had a single engine. The bike would negotiate a corner at high speeds ((to me high speed on a corner is max 70 mph ) and lots slower on right angles(((lots slower)) but it moved like it was stuck in a large vat of molasses. Now when i ride honestly if i just think of shifting my head to the left or re right the bike turns and if i want to pull it way down it will go as far as i have the nerve to. I think ill have my head weighed tomorrow. Maybe its not the tire size thats makes the bike turn so well.
 
I think you're going too far with rear shocks 1.5" longer than stock. Not only have you radically changed the steering geometry but now I believe your chain will ride against the swingarm pivot. I would recommend shocks about a 1/4" longer with stiffer springs and dropping the front maybe a half inch at the most and also installing stiffer springs there.
Axel
 
I know this is from last year but...

I know this is from last year but...

mikellyjo said:
I didn't think about the CG issue. True, lowering the front will quicken the steering. It seems everybody lowers the rear and I have gone an raised it...anybody know where I can get body armor for the initial test flight.
Thanks .02 cents.
Click to expand...

Too much rake in either direction will throw off the center of gravity quite a bit. Especially at high speeds. The manuals state that even changing the fork pressure you need to adjust the rear shocks accordingly, "to maintain proper handling". (read squirrly)

I had a slow leak in my forks (air) and after it dropped about an inch while driving, that braking seemed a bit freaky. The bike dipped quite a bit and cornering was off. It felt like the back end wanted to come around faster than the front. Yes these are signs of low pressure and dampening, but I was able to fix it by adjusting the back shocks until I made it home so there is something to the whole geomerty thing.

(Also at low speeds everything seemed fine)
 
Maybe raise the rear up but don't fool with the front end untill you try the first mod. It may be all you need to achieve your goal without affecting the handling in a big way. Mind you, if you get used to how it handles you might like the feel, who knows?
 
I agree with Jon here try what you have already done to it before doing anything else. Two reasons, one, if you do both and hate it which one do you reverse?by going one step at a time it is faster to sort out what was wrong and what wasnt, two, you may have already gone to far and should assess this before doing anything else, including fitting a steering damper,any bike that needs one has a problem particularly if it is a sweet handling thing like a GS.
Dink
 
1.5 inches RAISED in the rear? That is a huge change to the steering geometry. And the change is probably bad.
It sounds like this will be beyond the technical term "twitchy".
As has been stated in the previous posts, one change at a time.
Why so radical a change? Looking cool may be one thing, but being able to ride it is another. Will this be a drag bike? If so, then drop both ends, not raise the rear.
How much of an angle increase to the chain? If you read any of the motorcycle magazines, they drop the front by millimeters, not inches.
The rear is also adjusted by millimeters, not inches.
As to the streetfighter theme, yea they look coll and have high end suspension components, but close to stock lenghts.

Danger Will Robinson :lol:

Keith
 
I don't think changin front and rear in opposite directions would change the CG as much as changing one side only. The CG would move forward a bit and down but the change in rake and trail should be checked. Might be scary at high speeds but would be a quick turner.

Chris
 
No offense but how can you say changing both would have less of an
effect then changing one? You'd be doubling the change if you did it
to both ends. CG is the balance point, imagine taking say a marble and
raising just the rear end then rolling the marble down the bike. Now
lower the front while keeping the rear end raised, the marble is gonna roll
faster because there is more of an angle. Streetfighter IMO is a backstreet
drag racer, if this is what you want, stretch it and lower it to win races.
Brian
 
rick romero said:
scotty, what do you mean by your bike steers quiker? does it fall into corners?
Click to expand...

That's basically what my ZRX does, the steering is considerably quicker than the GS's is. The GS's larger front wheel and forward hung axle make it steer into corners like a truck compared to the ZRX.
 
Keep the front and rear ends standard. If you want the kicked up streetfighter look on an older bike, angle the rear seat rails upwards. (beyond where you sit.) Shortening the rails and seat is also very effective.

You could also try GSXR/Bandit running gear, but it can take a bit of experimenting to get it feeling right.

My GSX1135EF has a Bandit front end and a Bandit rear wheel in a shorter than stock (for my bike) EXUP swing arm. It turns pretty quick and is stable at speed. A longer GSXR11 swing arm would make it turn slower The seat rails are kicked up about an inch and all the crap from beneath the rear light (fender etc) has been dumped in favor of a 9 x 2 1/2 inch number plate. All adding to the kicked up look.

So basically turn up the passenger seat rails and clear the clutter
 
Before you ride this thing, check your trail measurements. I think a 1.5 drop/1.5 raise might be close to eliminating any trail that is built into the stock frame and forks. With 0 or even + trail, you are asking to be spit into the pavement with little or no notice.

Hate to say this, but check out some of the chopper sites when it comes to trail, they explain it very well, and probably have some good stories on riding demons with poor geometry.

Kenny
 
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