Power surge 83 GS 850G

[Burque73]

After a crazy busy week I'm finally getting around to posting this. I got stranded last weekend with a dead electrical system and towed the bike home. The following morning tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't charge, popped in another one and fired the bike up. Battery voltage 12.45, start and idle at 2k voltage reads between 17 and 18 so I figured the R/R is not regulating. Oh, I removed the battery while it was running to avoid killing another battery and test the voltage in other places. It ran fine for about twenty seconds then the headlight (H4 halogen) got really bright and the engine went into cardiac arrest! It sounded like one cylinder was firing. I hit the kill switch and thought I'd just fried my ignition system.

After a sleepless night then a long day at work I tried to start again. No running issues this time, thankfully ignition is fine but headlight is out. I'll sort that in due time. Fuses are all ok BTW, maybe just a bulb. I've been reading through post after post and am pretty sure it's time for an R/R change.

Is this a stock R/R unit?






I know the positive battery cable is routed wrong. Just using the battery I had on hand with terminals on the wrong side temporarily. Still charging really high now well over 16 volts.

Thanks guys

 

[mnferwerda]

That sure looks like a stock unit. I believe only Suzuki uses that kind of connector.

 

[Burque73]

I'm just going to assume it's still the stock R/R and that it's toast. Looking into ordering a new one. Also going through Posplayr's GS charging system health link and Steve's breakdown of supplier's prices to find one (both are very helpful, thanks guys for your dedication to this forum). I know there are other options, just starting dig into it. I've called the local Polaris dealer twice today and the parts dept. doesn't answer the phone. Just for comparison's sake to see what they had and how much it cost.

Time is not my friend and that's it for today. Too many irons in other fires.

 

[Burque73]

That sure looks like a stock unit. I believe only Suzuki uses that kind of connector.

Thank you. I was typing my last post at the same time, slowly as usual haha

 

[tom203]

Never remove the battery and run bike - the r/r will get bewildered and boost system voltage in desperation! Get a sh-775 series unit - either new or used. Sadly, new prices seem to have doubled.

 

[Steve]

I need to go back and update that source list, it's been a while.

As mentioned, prices have somewhat doubled, making the purchase of a used one off eBay more attractive, but you have to watch to make sure it's a Genuine SH775.
Too many sellers are advertising that their R/R "replaces original R/R" or is a "direct replacement for". They are likely NOT a series R/R. You need to SEE the lettering that says "SH775" on the fin before you buy.

Yes, that was a stock R/R on your bike, but be aware that that style appeared on the '83 models, so you won't see many like it. You will be better off with an SH775, and don't run your bike without a battery again.

.

 

[JTGS850GL]

2nd what Tom said. NEVER, Never, never run a bike with the battery disconnected. The battery acts as a huge capacitor and filters much of the voltage spikes from the stator. Without it, you're just dumping a ton of voltage spikes into the system. Burnt/fried components are inevitable and can happen rather quickly.

 

[Burque73]

I need to go back and update that source list, it's been a while.

I just googled sh775 part number and your thread came up. Not sure I would have found it otherwise.


10-4 guys, won't ever pull the battery while running again. I suppose the same thing can happen in a car right? I heard you could see if an alternator was bad by removing the battery like that.

On to ebay for an R/R. I'll look for the sh775 lettering as well.

 

[Burque73]

I'm finding several sh775's but none come with connectors. With a pigtail I could add spade connectors or solder the wires together.

Would this be a good kit to order? http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html

Edit: Ok I'm seeing the spade connectors will plug individually into the r/r unit.

 

[Steve]

There is a Triumph harness adapter that costs about half of what the Eastern Beaver unit costs. Find a Triumph dealer, they might even have it in stock.

.

 

[Nessism]

Ebay search "polaris regulator" and/or "polaris RZR regulator". There are at least a dozen R/R's that seem to be SH775's. Just be sure to ask the seller to confirm the lettering is on the unit before purchase.

You can use regular spade terminals to connect to the SH775 and then fill the cavity with some electrical safe RTV.

 

[Burque73]

Order shipped today so now just awaiting the arrival of my R/R (sh775).

Between making funeral arrangements for a family member and having a dead bike, I've been pretty depressed. :crushed:

 

[Burque73]

The package left on my doorstep brought a smile to my face. I'm surprised to see the sh775 dwarf the stock r/r. I went ahead and ordered the kit to connect it which arrived at the same time. Only $10 shipped and with a used unit if I had to replace it down the road I figured that would make it easier.



Still need to pull the windjammer and unwrap the bundle of wires and track down the sense wire, inspect/ clean/ replace as needed all connections etc. I'm really out of my comfort zone with 12v DC wiring but will give it a go. Maybe just mind screwing myself and it wont be that bad once I get into it.

 

[posplayr]

I don't know what else is on your bike that is electronics, but I would suspect that it is at least damaged by running the bike without a battery.

It is not so much that the R/R is confused without a battery, it is that the high voltage transients coming from the stator through the R/R are not being absorbed by anything when the battery is gone. That means they are passed onto anything electrical. Solid state electronics unless well protected will be damaged.

 

[Burque73]

I'll find out soon if anything else got fried other than the H4 headlight bulb. No added electronics just stock stuff like ignition, incandescent lights etc.

 

[posplayr]

I'll find out soon if anything else got fried other than the H4 headlight bulb. No added electronics just stock stuff like ignition, incandescent lights etc.

Electronics means semiconductors. A light bulb is electric. If you have an ignitor (v.s. points) it is electonics.

 

[Burque73]

Electronics means semiconductors. A light bulb is electric. If you have an ignitor (v.s. points) it is electonics.

Just thought I'd mention the bulbs in my last post since a lot of people are switching to LED's and I wasn't sure if there are associated electronics added to operate them and manage the difference in the current draw.

Dammit Jim, I'm a carpenter, not an electrician! haha

 

[posplayr]

Just thought I'd mention the bulbs in my last post since a lot of people are switching to LED's and I wasn't sure if there are associated electronics added to operate them and manage the difference in the current draw.

Dammit Jim, I'm a carpenter, not an electrician! haha

Sorry, just trying to clarify what might be electrical v.s. electronics goblins.

But now that I think about it, a filament incandescent bulb will also "wear" down from stresses of over voltage as well.

BTW an LED is considered a semiconductor.

 

[Burque73]

Sorry

Please don't be. Your analytical mind is a blessing!!

just trying to clarify what might be electrical v.s. electronics goblins.

But now that I think about it, a filament incandescent bulb will also "wear" down from stresses of over voltage as well.

BTW an LED is considered a semiconductor.

Good to know! Thanks

 

[2BRacing]

The package left on my doorstep brought a smile to my face. I'm surprised to see the sh775 dwarf the stock r/r. I went ahead and ordered the kit to connect it which arrived at the same time. Only $10 shipped and with a used unit if I had to replace it down the road I figured that would make it easier.



Still need to pull the windjammer and unwrap the bundle of wires and track down the sense wire, inspect/ clean/ replace as needed all connections etc. I'm really out of my comfort zone with 12v DC wiring but will give it a go. Maybe just mind screwing myself and it wont be that bad once I get into it.

I am not an electrical fundi, but reading the bold marked part in your post, I thought I could maybe save you some unnecessary work, by mentioning that the SH775 does not need a "sense" wire to regulate properly. The "sense" wire was only needed for the adapted 6 wire Honda R/R's which used to be used before the SH775 arrived on the scene. The extra "sense" wire (linked to a switched +ve such as the rear brake light feed) was used to obtain a more accurate measurement of the battery voltage, in order to improve regulation accuracy. Your OEM R/R also did not have a "sense" wire, as it has only 5 pins: 3 for the stator, one for +ve and one for -ve.

I hope Posplayr reads this and chimes in with the real facts, as I do not want to lead you astray!