• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

powering the ingnitor

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
how do u power the ignitor? which wires? is it through the pick up coils? or thru the black/white wire on the ignitor and the positive terminals are powered directly by 12v?
 
The ignitor needs to be turned off by the key so you shouldn't connect it to the battery directly. If you are able to get it to work properly this way you'll probably lose a hand one day while turning the engine over with the back wheel. I can't think of anything on the bike that isn't turned off with the key come to think of it...even the brake light stops working.

The black/white wire is always ground from what I've seen on this website.

The pick-ups work via a magnet or whatever may be down there...they don't need any outside power.
 
im hooking it up directly only to test whether the bike is in working condition. where does positive hook up? what i need to know is if i put power directly the ignitor and the plugs start firing and theres a delay before the motor spins the engine is that bad? i know the starter button activates both at the same time but ive passed everthing except the ingition relay, r/r, and ignitor. note im not planning on doing anythign except testing the bike out, i will not be riding like this at all
 
If your color code is the same as my 700, you should have a black/white ground wire and and an orange/white wire going into the same side of the ignitor as the white and black/yellow coil signal wires. The orange/white provides positive charge to the coils and the ignitor. The white and black/yellow signal wires are ground for the coils. At any rate, whichever color wire goes to both coils also powers the ignitor.
 
alright thats the way i got it wired and its still not firing .
 
Do you have the plug for the signal generator hooked up? You can override it. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the ignitor facing you, the plug on the right side of the ignitor is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the ignitor will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the ignitor is good and the signal generators are suspect.
 
i cant get the plugs out because my 5/8 deep socket isn't big enuff, anyone know what size the plugs are?
 
If your bike has a DR8 plugs it is an 18mm deep socket. You'll want to pick up a 3/8 drive socket so that it will fit inbetween the valves. If you can't get the plugs out just put a new pair of plugs in the leads so you can see what is going on.

Steve
 
Not sure what you mean. They are basically the same, but you have to have the correct heat range and thread reach.
 
i just need extra plugs to test, im not actually gonna change em, does anyone know if i can get an industrial r/r somewhere to fit my bke
 
Other than the Electrex unit and the Honda R/R that a few people use, I'm not sure what else will work. Slopoke uses the Honda unit, he can tell you which bike model it is off of. They are suppose to work well and if you have a boneyard nearby you should be able to pick one up cheap. I think there are a couple of Suzuki units on ebay right now.
 
why couldnt u use an industrial one? all u need is one with 3 voltage ins?
 
ice109 said:
why couldnt u use an industrial one? all u need is one with 3 voltage ins?
Click to expand...

Of course you can, look for the spec. and see that it matches the GS elctrical data.

Then it's all a question of knowledge how to mount and wire.
 
what spec should i be looking for? my manual doesn't have r/r specs
 
ice109 said:
what spec should i be looking for? my manual doesn't have r/r specs
Click to expand...

Well, you must put some effort into it; it's like doing an electrical design.

First you must buy a good service manual for your bike and understand how the charging system of your bike works in detail (down on diode thyristor level and what the different components are doing).

See also the pages I scanned for you earlier:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=4765&start=15

Then you have to get the figures of the output voltage and current range from the stator, you can read the manual or measure them.

Now you have to find an industrial r/r that meets the demands for that Voltage, current and permanent magnet rotor feed stator, don't forget that the Voltage/Current corresponds to the revolution range of the engine.

The r/r you choose must also fit on the bike from a mechanical point of view.

After you have chosen the correct component and mounted it, you only have to wire it in place (no big deal, three phases, + and -).

It is possible for sure, but I just bought a new spare one to my GS 1150....

Don't know what comes cheaper in the end.

Please let us know how you proceed.

Good luck.
 
I have used a Kawasaki LTD550 R/R (1981) on a 83 GS550ES. It was on for most of this season and he just stopped riding it last week. His charging system seems to work better than mine. Anyway. Be creative.

KRASH :wink:
 
I have got a late '70s R/R from a Honda CB400 on my machine, works perfectly.

Anthony
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top