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Problem after carb cleaning

  • Thread starter Thread starter OklahomaPomade
  • Start date Start date
O

OklahomaPomade

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I didn't FULLY tear down the carbs because I wanted to avoid sync issues. I was pretty thorough however, after filling the bowls and startup, rpm shot up to 5000 with no letup! Choking calmed it to about 4500.

I checked throttle linkage...no binds. It smells rich...drove me out of the garage!! Exhaust on #4 is cool to the touch with 1-3 sizzlin' spit.

I have spark on #4.
 
First step is to get the idle back down to where it should be. Pull the tank back off and visibly inspect that the arm where the throttle cable is hooked up is falling against the adjustment stop screw when the throttle is closed. I'd wager it's not. Find out why and correct it. I assume you didn't screw that adjustment screw in trying to tighten it. Once you've got that under control, see if it's firing on # 4. Might not be. Do a leak test on the intakes. If no leaks, take those carbs off again and drop the bowl on # 4 and check the idle circuits.
 
Last edited:
chiphead said:
Do a leak test on the intakes.
Click to expand...

Can you remind us what the procedure is for this? I'd like to give that a shot on my bike, since someone's asking about intake boot o-ring integrity.

Randy...
 
I just went out and pulled the tank. You were right...not going all the way down. I couldnt see why at first, then I found the throttle has a 'click' to it that allowed the linkage to drop all the way down (with a little slack in the cabel, as well).

I couldn't check further 'cause the battery died...forgot to prime the fuel line again.

Anyway...for the 5 seconds that it ran, I did see a noticeable difference...about 1500 rpm.

Gotta check that throttle and find out why it's clicking.

Later I'll tackle the #4 cylinder not firing issue.
 
randyshipp said:
Can you remind us what the procedure is for this? I'd like to give that a shot on my bike, since someone's asking about intake boot o-ring integrity.

Randy...
Click to expand...
At idle, take a can of WD40 or brakekleen and spray the intake boots and areas where they mate to the cylinder head. Any change in idle or running condition (i.e: starts to run rough, misses, idle raises etc.) indicates some sort of a intake leak issue.
 
chiphead said:
At idle, take a can of WD40 or brakekleen and spray the intake boots and areas where they mate to the cylinder head. Any change in idle or running condition (i.e: starts to run rough, misses, idle raises etc.) indicates some sort of a intake leak issue.
Click to expand...


Gotcha...thanks!

Randy...
 
Ok...here's what we got. The carb that was giving me trouble had a bunch of junk in the screen (thought I cleaned that!!??)

However, when I put em back in (40 minutes to remove airbox and carbs, clean, and re-install...RECORD??) I found #4 still cool. I switched the coils around and ALL PISTONS STARTED FIRING!!????

Who knows...Don't mess with it when it's working??
 
As far as the "click" in the throttle cable, check the routing. Make sure there are no kinks or sharp bends. Also check to make sure that the throttle screws/linkages are all in the right positions. DON"T MOVE THE SCREWS UNLESS YOU HAVE TO (unless you want to do the vacuum synch)!
 
The spark problem on #4 probably is due to a bad connection on the spark plug caps. They screw into the caps, not a big deal to check.
 
So then why does #1 work then since all I did was switch it around?
 
You probably have poor contact and when you switched the wires you ended up wiggling things enough to give a more solid connection. The caps simply screw onto the plug wire.
 
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