Progressive Suspension: 11-1110 Fork Spring kit

[MK3Brent]

Hi, guys.

I'm asking if you guys know if this "kit" comes with any pieces other than the springs?

Progressive contacted me to say my order wouldn't ship due to a stock issue, so I decided to buy them through a distributor.


If it's just the springs, let me know and I can just get those...

Is there anything else in the kit I should know? (I don't think they include the PVC pipe anymore.)

 

[RichDesmond]

Hi, guys.

I'm asking if you guys know if this "kit" comes with any pieces other than the springs?

Progressive contacted me to say my order wouldn't ship due to a stock issue, so I decided to buy them through a distributor.


If it's just the springs, let me know and I can just get those...

Is there anything else in the kit I should know? (I don't think they include the PVC pipe anymore.)

Don't know what Progressive includes these days, but all you really need from them are the springs. Spacer material is just 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC, and you need a couple of washers. $3 and a trip to Lowes will cover it.

If you need instructions check here:

http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/damper_rod_forks_tech_article.php

You may need closer to 1-1.25" of preload with the Progressives.

 

[ILoveThumpers]

The 11-1110 Fork Spring kit is for front forks, Ed.

The one time I ordered a spring kit from Progressive, it was just two springs; no spacers or anything else came in the box.

-Deek

 

[MK3Brent]

Okay, perfect. Thanks for posting guys.

Any other comments on the handling with these springs?

My other options:
Ever since my swingarm and rear suspension upgrades, I've been needing something for the front. I intend on going to an 99' R6 front end soon but want something to hold me over till then.

For my geometry, the front forks needed to come down a little over 2".
Handling was greatly improved, but am not sure if I want to put a spacer at the damper... or just cut the stock springs and make a pre-load spacer for the top.

The type of handling I desire: Firm and precise.
I prefer the sharp responsiveness of the front end, and am not sure if I need a progressive spring at all.

Maybe I can just cut the springs, make the pre-load spacer, then adjust the air pressure to personal preference.

Thoughts?

 

[RichDesmond]

Okay, perfect. Thanks for posting guys.

Any other comments on the handling with these springs?

My other options:
Ever since my swingarm and rear suspension upgrades, I've been needing something for the front. I intend on going to an 99' R6 front end soon but want something to hold me over till then.

For my geometry, the front forks needed to come down a little over 2".
Handling was greatly improved, but am not sure if I want to put a spacer at the damper... or just cut the stock springs and make a pre-load spacer for the top.

The type of handling I desire: Firm and precise.
I prefer the sharp responsiveness of the front end, and am not sure if I need a progressive spring at all.

Maybe I can just cut the springs, make the pre-load spacer, then adjust the air pressure to personal preference.

Thoughts?

Don't want to sound too much like a commercial, but...

Either the Progressive springs or cut down stockers will be a big improvement over stock. If you really want the best out of the stock front end though, get good straight rate springs in the correct rate for your weight and riding style.

In a nutshell, you want your fork action to be as linear as possible. Both progressively wound springs and (especially) added air pressure work against that.

Good straight rate springs are available from a number of sources, Sonic Springs (my company), Race-Tech, Traxxion Dynamics, Ohlins, Eibach...etc. No real difference between those.

 

[MK3Brent]

Thanks, Rich.

Maybe I'll just cut the springs.
I'm going to cut the stock springs, and I guess use a spacer at the damper to prevent the shock returning all the way back up. (Or is it better not to use a spacer at the damper? I can machine the spacer and put a hole in the side to allow the fork oil to flow so the valve works as intended.)

Any insight on that?
I read pros and cons for doing this... and I'm not out to butcher something. Everything else on the bike is high quality, and I don't want to do something stupid here.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Trigger Happy

Trigger Happy

The 11-1110 Fork Spring kit is for front forks, Ed.

The one time I ordered a spring kit from Progressive, it was just two springs; no spacers or anything else came in the box.

-Deek

Oops,

Sorry about that! I guess I'm gettting excited for this Saturday's Scheduled Maintenance.


Ed

 

[koolaid_kid]

Cutting the spring will raise the spring rate, which compensates for 30+ years of metal fatigue. You must add spacers to compensate for the shorter springs; you also use the spacers to set static sag.
IMHO, you would be best served by purchasing the correct Sonic springs and be done with it, but that's just me.

 

[MK3Brent]

Cutting the spring will raise the spring rate, which compensates for 30+ years of metal fatigue. You must add spacers to compensate for the shorter springs; you also use the spacers to set static sag.
IMHO, you would be best served by purchasing the correct Sonic springs and be done with it, but that's just me.

Well if you cut the springs, you definitely need a spacer for the pre-load.
Now putting the OTHER spacer down at the damper, isn't there a hole at the bottom for fork oil to run through? If I make a spacer down there, it should need a hole to allow the fluid to flow, right?

Will also put a set screw in it so it will stay aligned with the hole.

 

[RichDesmond]

Well if you cut the springs, you definitely need a spacer for the pre-load.
Now putting the OTHER spacer down at the damper, isn't there a hole at the bottom for fork oil to run through? If I make a spacer down there, it should need a hole to allow the fluid to flow, right?

Will also put a set screw in it so it will stay aligned with the hole.

Don't put a spacer below the spring. Just cut new spacers from 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC. Start with about 15m of static preload.

If you're going to cut the stock springs, two things to be aware of. First, make sure you still have enough travel in the spring for preload and wheel travel. Second, know that you're increasing the stress level in the steel quite a bit. You can expect them to derate over time. Keep an eye on your sag, if it's increasing you have a problem.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

If I remember correctly, my Progressive fork spring kit (1107) came with a length of PVC pipe and washers. Or did I re-use the old washers? Anyway, I documented my experience here...

Install Progressive Fork Springs (PDF file)



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[ILoveThumpers]

Oops,

Sorry about that! I guess I'm gettting excited for this Saturday's Scheduled Maintenance.


Ed

No worries! I missed it at first too. I'm getting stoked to install my new master cylinder and get on the road myself! Come on spring!

-Deek

 

[MK3Brent]

Hi,

If I remember correctly, my Progressive fork spring kit (1107) came with a length of PVC pipe and washers. Or did I re-use the old washers? Anyway, I documented my experience here...

Install Progressive Fork Springs (PDF file)



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Thanks, Cliff.

I actually read your PDF's as well as the other PDF from another man's forkseal job.

Once I get these forks apart, I guess I'll figure out if I need to put a hole in the damper spacer at the bottom.

 

[MK3Brent]

One last thing, friends.

My bike is an 83' GS750E with anti-dive forks. Any clue what type of damper I will have inside the fork? Meaning, the tool I will need to hold it while removing the socket-head cap screw from the bottom?

I read from Cliff's page that Matchless used a 19mm nut and an all-thread rod to fit in the female end of the damper.

Any clues would help me get the job done with better planning.

Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[MK3Brent]

So I was thinking... Since I have the fork shown above with the secondary pre-load spring, and it happens to be slightly longer than the required lowering. I'm debating using it as my lower spacer, vs. the PVC pipe I have.

With the spring, I would have better fluid flow past the holes in the damper and might work better.

What do you think about that?

I currently have the lower forks curing with primer, so I have time before going back and putting it all together.

 

[MK3Brent]

So I was thinking... Since I have the fork shown above with the secondary pre-load spring, and it happens to be slightly longer than the required lowering. I'm debating using it as my lower spacer, vs. the PVC pipe I have.

With the spring, I would have better fluid flow past the holes in the damper and might work better.

What do you think about that?

I currently have the lower forks curing with primer, so I have time before going back and putting it all together.

Just an update: /\
This doesn't work.. lol, the spring ID is too small.

I'm trying to seat the guide bushing into the lower fork tube.
I measured the height of the bushing, and the seat.. and I think I need to go back to the store to get a piece of pvc pipe to get more force around it.

That edge of the bushing should be flat with the fork seal seat.
I could also put it in the freezer for an hour or so, and I bet it would pop in.