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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Bump!! Did Anyone Read My Post Above?
FYI: I did. Unfortunately, I've never done a proper vacuum sync...but it's on the list! Best of luck with yours!
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FYI: I did. Unfortunately, I've never done a proper vacuum sync...but it's on the list! Best of luck with yours!
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Congratulations on a job well done and well documented
Gizmo
Thanks very much. Hopefully the documentation will be of use to some other GS-ers.
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Roll Credits
Roll Credits
I wanted to say "Thanks!" to all those who have contributed to the success of "Phase One" (getting the bike ride-able) of this project. Everyone who has dropped by, offered encouragement, advice, tips, suggestions, opinion and shared the benefits of their experience and expertise deserves a round of applause and should know their input has been very much appreciated. In particular, here are the names of a few that have been particularly helpful and managed to offer something that truly made my experience better by making the job easier, making me more informed, making the job faster/enabling me to do it once, etc. So Special Thanks to:
JTsGS650 (first reply post other than me, let me know I had a backup!)
lord1234 (spark plug and carb advice)
Steve (Saved me mis-reading my torque wrench and major Torque issues. This was huge as I almost certainly would've done some damage!)
LeeGS550E (confirmed that I did NOT want to remove the throttle plates)
Nerobro (Excellent carb removal "tricks" and overall knowledge of 550's. I'd still pay to see him remove, clean and replace his carbs in 10 minutes!
skreemer (identified UIW (Un-Identified Wire) oil sensor wire and planted the idea of upgrading to a GSXR shock)
foghog (helped identify UIH's (hoses) from fuel tank)
Thomas Kenny (letting me know he had extra carb parts...just in case)
Thanks very much!
PS: Stay tuned. I'll be sure to keep this thread rolling as I get into Phase Two (get the bike Safe & RELIABLE) of this project. I work slow, but I alwyas finish the race!
Roll Credits
I wanted to say "Thanks!" to all those who have contributed to the success of "Phase One" (getting the bike ride-able) of this project. Everyone who has dropped by, offered encouragement, advice, tips, suggestions, opinion and shared the benefits of their experience and expertise deserves a round of applause and should know their input has been very much appreciated. In particular, here are the names of a few that have been particularly helpful and managed to offer something that truly made my experience better by making the job easier, making me more informed, making the job faster/enabling me to do it once, etc. So Special Thanks to:
JTsGS650 (first reply post other than me, let me know I had a backup!)
lord1234 (spark plug and carb advice)
Steve (Saved me mis-reading my torque wrench and major Torque issues. This was huge as I almost certainly would've done some damage!)
LeeGS550E (confirmed that I did NOT want to remove the throttle plates)
Nerobro (Excellent carb removal "tricks" and overall knowledge of 550's. I'd still pay to see him remove, clean and replace his carbs in 10 minutes!
skreemer (identified UIW (Un-Identified Wire) oil sensor wire and planted the idea of upgrading to a GSXR shock)
foghog (helped identify UIH's (hoses) from fuel tank)
Thomas Kenny (letting me know he had extra carb parts...just in case)
Thanks very much!
PS: Stay tuned. I'll be sure to keep this thread rolling as I get into Phase Two (get the bike Safe & RELIABLE) of this project. I work slow, but I alwyas finish the race!
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skreemer
Guest
As a suggestion for tires take a look at Bridgestone BT-45's and Pirelli Sport Demons.
The BT-45s are touring tires... pretty hard in the center and soft on the edges to give you a good mix of long life and cornering confidence... They are a very capable tire and even work well in the rain. If you push things though you will find thier limits.
The Sport Demons are more sporting than touring. Very sticky by comparison. Fine handling in the wet or dry... You sacrifice tire life though...
There's some tricks you can do with tires to make the bike handle radically different...
The stock front is a 100 and the rear is a 120...
Bridgestone makes the BT-45's in 120 for both the front and rear... This makes the bike very stable. Unfortunately that stability sacrifices some of the "tippyness"(made up the word) of the bike. You have to wrestle it a bit more to get it to corner for you.
Right now for a mix of stability at high speed and ease of cornering I'm running a 110 up front and a 120 on the back. The bike tips in very nicely and still feels very stable at speed.
The BT-45s are touring tires... pretty hard in the center and soft on the edges to give you a good mix of long life and cornering confidence... They are a very capable tire and even work well in the rain. If you push things though you will find thier limits.
The Sport Demons are more sporting than touring. Very sticky by comparison. Fine handling in the wet or dry... You sacrifice tire life though...
There's some tricks you can do with tires to make the bike handle radically different...
The stock front is a 100 and the rear is a 120...
Bridgestone makes the BT-45's in 120 for both the front and rear... This makes the bike very stable. Unfortunately that stability sacrifices some of the "tippyness"(made up the word) of the bike. You have to wrestle it a bit more to get it to corner for you.
Right now for a mix of stability at high speed and ease of cornering I'm running a 110 up front and a 120 on the back. The bike tips in very nicely and still feels very stable at speed.
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AOD
Guest
Anything larger than a 100 front tire makes the bike turn in ridiculously slow. I pulled the 110 tire off my 1100 immediately after I purchased it and went to a 100 size. The handling immediately improved, hands down.
~Adam
~Adam
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Thanks for the tire info. I think I'll be leaning heavily to th sticky side with tires. I want to have the best traction, even if tire life is shorter. Besides, it's not really the tires life that I'm trying to extend.
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AOD
Guest
If you want sticky I'd go with the following:
Metzeler Lasertec (most expensive of the bunch, but I love em)
Pirelli Sport Demon (cheaper, but a favorite here on this forum)
Dunlop XXXX - Someone will have to add which Dunlop is stickies, I don't know.
~Adam
Metzeler Lasertec (most expensive of the bunch, but I love em)
Pirelli Sport Demon (cheaper, but a favorite here on this forum)
Dunlop XXXX - Someone will have to add which Dunlop is stickies, I don't know.
~Adam
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Temporary Tags are On!
Temporary Tags are On!
Haven't been out here much in the last week, but on 6/8/07 I finally got temp tags on the bike and took the first ride around more than the block! Since then I've put about 30 miles on the GS. This bike loves to run!
With two frozen and stripped pilot screws I've still got a challenge with the carburetion at idle, but I'm in the process of moving so my wrench time is super low right now and I need to have the bike mobile for the cross town move when it happens. Next upgrade will be to new tires.
Next step is to get it through Maryland State Inspection, which I expect to get done sometime next week.
PS: I have cleaned up the plastics a bit and I'll be posting "outdoor" (as in non-garage) pics as soon as I can remember to think about pics in the midst of enjoying my daily rides!
Temporary Tags are On!
Haven't been out here much in the last week, but on 6/8/07 I finally got temp tags on the bike and took the first ride around more than the block! Since then I've put about 30 miles on the GS. This bike loves to run!
With two frozen and stripped pilot screws I've still got a challenge with the carburetion at idle, but I'm in the process of moving so my wrench time is super low right now and I need to have the bike mobile for the cross town move when it happens. Next upgrade will be to new tires.
Next step is to get it through Maryland State Inspection, which I expect to get done sometime next week.
PS: I have cleaned up the plastics a bit and I'll be posting "outdoor" (as in non-garage) pics as soon as I can remember to think about pics in the midst of enjoying my daily rides!
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skreemer
Guest
Woo very nice sir... now get some new rubbers on her and ride the heck out of her...
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Fast/High Idle after warm-up.
Fast/High Idle after warm-up.
Well, at the moment I'm trying to get my bike through state inspection, but I've run into a bit of an issue with the idle. Bike starts up first time every time \\
/(under full choke when cold, of course). Runs a touch rough at idle and "take off", but once the RPMs hit the 3000+ range (redlines over 10000) it loves to run and sounds and feels great! The problem is that once it's warmed up it likes to idle at about 3000 and the warmer it gets, the higher it wants to idle, up to almost 5000. Not sure if this will keep it from passing safety inspection, but I need to deal with it either way because of cooling issues (5000 RPMs while sitting = nothing good!).
Here's are my thoughts on the issue:
1) Pilot screws (idle air/fuel mix) may need adjustment. Unfortunately, two of four are frozen and were stripped by the PO. Suggestions?
2) Choke seems to be functioning properly, as I can further increase idle by applying choke after warm up.
3) Air leak seems unlikely as I've sprayed intake boot seams with WD-40 to momentarily plug any leaks that may exist. No effect.
4) I've adjusted the throttle cable and it seems to move freely and have enough slack to allow full return. I've also lubed it liberaly. Seems an unlikely culprit since idle is ALWAYS fine when cold and only runs high when warmed-up or hot.
5) Throttle slides, while ever so slightly scratched, do not seem to have excessive wear (besides, bike has less than 4000 miles on it).
Ideas, suggestions, thoughts, tips, helpful hints? I'll take 'em all! Thanks!
Fast/High Idle after warm-up.
Well, at the moment I'm trying to get my bike through state inspection, but I've run into a bit of an issue with the idle. Bike starts up first time every time \\
/(under full choke when cold, of course). Runs a touch rough at idle and "take off", but once the RPMs hit the 3000+ range (redlines over 10000) it loves to run and sounds and feels great! The problem is that once it's warmed up it likes to idle at about 3000 and the warmer it gets, the higher it wants to idle, up to almost 5000. Not sure if this will keep it from passing safety inspection, but I need to deal with it either way because of cooling issues (5000 RPMs while sitting = nothing good!).Here's are my thoughts on the issue:
1) Pilot screws (idle air/fuel mix) may need adjustment. Unfortunately, two of four are frozen and were stripped by the PO. Suggestions?
2) Choke seems to be functioning properly, as I can further increase idle by applying choke after warm up.
3) Air leak seems unlikely as I've sprayed intake boot seams with WD-40 to momentarily plug any leaks that may exist. No effect.
4) I've adjusted the throttle cable and it seems to move freely and have enough slack to allow full return. I've also lubed it liberaly. Seems an unlikely culprit since idle is ALWAYS fine when cold and only runs high when warmed-up or hot.
5) Throttle slides, while ever so slightly scratched, do not seem to have excessive wear (besides, bike has less than 4000 miles on it).
Ideas, suggestions, thoughts, tips, helpful hints? I'll take 'em all! Thanks!
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LeeGS550E
Guest
Don't have much to add, only that my 550 seems to have a limit to how high the pilot screws will alter the idel. It may differ, as you well know, between our bikes since mines not in as good a shape and jetted/breathed differently. The pilot air circuit MAY be able to get enough fuel in their to increase the throttle that much, but it seems unlikely. Seems like she would run way too rich when cold if this were the case. I know its low mileage, but how is your valve adjustment?
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Haven't touched the valves yet. I was planning on checking them after I got permanent tags. Could valve specs cause the high idle after warm up?
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
I meant could valves "out of spec" cause a high idle after warm up?
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LeeGS550E
Guest
I don't honestly know...I just know that adjusting my valves made the bike perform better overall. It seems that bad valve adjustment can cause all kinds of strange problems...just read uncle mike's long thread about his idle problem...
Its definately a variable I would eliminate if it were me...its relatively easy to do.
Its definately a variable I would eliminate if it were me...its relatively easy to do.
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Today's plan
Today's plan
Hunt down an air leak. Everything I've found in my searches for this problem (high idle after warm-up) seems to point to some kind of air leak. Several folks had told me during the carb cleaning that I should replace the boots no matter how good they seemed to be to ensure that I avoided this issue. Well, I still think the boots are in excellent shape, but I have to take some time an do some serious testing to be sure.
If I can't find an air leak are there any other possiblities or will that mean I just haven't found the air leak yet? Thanks for your assistance!
Today's plan
Hunt down an air leak. Everything I've found in my searches for this problem (high idle after warm-up) seems to point to some kind of air leak. Several folks had told me during the carb cleaning that I should replace the boots no matter how good they seemed to be to ensure that I avoided this issue. Well, I still think the boots are in excellent shape, but I have to take some time an do some serious testing to be sure.
If I can't find an air leak are there any other possiblities or will that mean I just haven't found the air leak yet? Thanks for your assistance!
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LeeGS550E
Guest
FYI, I've had instances where my chokes were not threaded in completely, and this let a little air in through the choke passage. Why they decided to make those threads out of plastic, I'll never guess. Check there while you're at it.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
It really doesn't seem to be the boots. I've got WD-40 all over the boots and there's been zero effect on the high idle.
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Pulled the choke lines and checked their function. All seems well. Suggestions as to what the next step should be?
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LeeGS550E
Guest
I'm still trying to think my way through it, but it seems strange to me that you can increase your idle by putting the choke back on when warm. It seems like putting the choke back on should just make it to rich. That's how it is on my 550. I would think this could only increase your idle when there's extra air availabe to mix with the added gas from choking. Are you sure your needles are set in the slides properly, and that your slides are seating correctly, and that all of the passages to your diaphrams are clean? I know you've mentioned that you didn't dip these carbs...I'm wondering if the vaccuum balance on top and below your diaphrams is somehow messing up with the added heat and pulling your slides up in the process. Just a guess though. And a kind of crappy one at that.
Can anyone else speculate on this issue?
Can anyone else speculate on this issue?
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MelodicMetalGod
Guest
Thanks LEESGS550E for your thinking cap time on this. I'm coming up empty on this thing except for speculation. I agree that it seems that there must be extra air coming from somewhere, but I can't seem to figure out where.
My understanding of the choke is that it meters both fuel and air (drawing fuel through the choke pipe from the bowl, mixing that fuel with air from the float chamber and then mixing that air/fuel mix with air again at the choke plunger and then porting that mix to the barrel after the butterfly valve). Therefore, I can imagine that the choke could introduce a lean mix IF there is a problem with the choke circuit. Of course, since the choke is designed to deliver a richer mix, if there's not a problem with the choke circuit then I would expect setting the choke to "bog" the engine.
I don't see any reason that there may be problems with the slides/needles or diaphragm pressures. The reason I didn't dip was that these carbs were very clean to begin with. Although I cleaned all passages, the only things that were actually in need of cleaning were the pilot jets and the choke pipes and the float bowls. Everything else looked pretty good. If these were at issue, wouldn't I see problems throughout the range of engine speeds and not just at idle? Plus, since I know the butterfly valve is returning to closed, wouldn't that minimize the effect of any issues with the main jet circuit?
I keep coming back to the though that my pilot screws are the culprit, and with two of them frozen, I'm thinking I'll have to get them drilled out to fix this issue. However, it seems, based on other posts that I've read on the topic, that the pilot screws generally won't vault the RPMs to 4000+.
The tough part of this is that I've only got until July 6th to fix this issue and get the safety inspection done before my temp tag runs out. The sad part is that this looks to be the only issue keeping me from getting the bike through inspection. Help!
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