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Project 300 "this is not sparta"

  • Thread starter Thread starter razor02097
  • Start date Start date
I know the regulators on these bikes are junk but how robust is the ignition system? Is there is a way to tell if the ignition system was damaged from the high voltage?
 
razor02097 said:
I know the regulators on these bikes are junk but how robust is the ignition system? Is there is a way to tell if the ignition system was damaged from the high voltage?
Click to expand...

What I had happen on mine was intermittent failure on the left side. Just wouldn't send spark. It rode fine for a while, but then it just wouldn't fire.

Finally the left side of the CDI burnt out. Had to ride home one 1 cylinder. That was fun.

See pg. 148 of the manual. You can test the ignitor really easily with it. Mechanix helped me out with that one.

Make sure you switch the key between off and on again between testing each side if you do that test. The ground switches after one coil fires and so it won't work if you try and test each side consecutively without turning the key off and then on again.

You can also check the signal gen. pickups resistance, but I got really funky readings on mine due to a low-end multi-meter.

There are also resistance tests for the coils. If you need stock coils I have a few that I know work.
 
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All seemed well, the bike starts and runs great. I'm just concerned and don't want to be left stranded. I would rather service the ignition system if someone says "yeah the CDI box can be damaged easily" or something to that tune. I'll do the checks when I get everything back together.
 
razor02097 said:
All seemed well, the bike starts and runs great. I'm just concerned and don't want to be left stranded. I would rather service the ignition system if someone says "yeah the CDI box can be damaged easily" or something to that tune. I'll do the checks when I get everything back together.
Click to expand...

How long did you run it with the bad r/r?

Unless it was REALLY high sustained current for a long time I wouldn't think it would give it much trouble.

My first concern would be the stator. With a bad r/r the stator doesn't have anywhere to dump the excess power from what I understand.

But, don't trust me. I didn't even know where to check my valve clearance :o
 
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razor02097 said:
How long? 3 or 4 days 1 hour per day if I had to guess.
Click to expand...

Yeah I wouldn't think that the ignition system would be hurt. It probably wasn't the best thing for it but not the worst either.

Definitely check with Pete or someone though - I'm still wet behind the ears on all of this. :p

The best way I know to check it though is the test on page 148. You just use your multimeter as a jump between the L & R sides of the signal generator. Takes like 5 minutes.

Take out your plugs and lay them on the head so they're grounded. Unplug the pick up 4 prong connector and then turn the bike on. Not started, just on.

Then on the female side of that 4 prong connector put one lead of your ohm meter (on resistance meter) in the g/w and one in the b/bl. Watch the plug while you do this. If it sparks, left ignition is good. Turn the bike off and back on again.

Repeat except with one lead going to brown and one lead to b/bl. Watch the plug when you connect. If it sparks right side of CDI is good.

You have to switch the bike off and on between L&R because the primary ground switches after it sparks I believe. Manual doesn't tell you this I don't think. I just knew it wouldn't do it one mine when I switched the leads.

Have you read the stator papers? It is pretty easy to check your stator too. That is what will leave you stranded - dead battery.
 
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All you can do with the ignition system is test it as Jake has described.

If it passes that test, it's working. Mind you if you haven't verified your coils/plug caps/plugs are good that test may fail and *not* be an issue with the ignitor.

I believe the main issue with these old ignitors is probably more likely capacitors drying out, but I'm sure over voltage will contribute to that as higher voltage means more current and if capacitors have started to dry, it will exacerbate that I believe... possibly not the best description in the world but hopefully you get what I mean...

Even 10 or 15 years ago I doubt a failing R/R would have had the same impact on the ignitor is what I guess I'm trying to say...

My suggestion is make sure you have some way of ensuring the charging system is functioning normally while riding and leave it at that.

Oh, and just to clarify, we don't have CDI on our bikes, we have transistorised ignition...
 
Oh, I thought that the ignitor box we had was called a CDI. I don't know what a CDI is then.

Sorry about that.
 
hjacobmiller said:
Oh, I thought that the ignitor box we had was called a CDI. I don't know what a CDI is then.

Sorry about that.
Click to expand...

CDI = capacitor discharge ignition... just another form basically but it uses the charge/discharge of a capacitor to drive the ignition coils rather than transistors as in our ignitors.

A lot of people call whatever form of ignitor box they have a "CDI" without realising what it is or what the difference is... no harm no foul I say, just thought I'd clarify ;)
 
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHH Bike Bandit why you no ship yet?!!?!?!?!?


I was lured in by the 15% off OEM parts weekend... :evil:
 
I saw a thread on here once called "Bike Bandit Blows"... perhaps that's an indication? :rolleyes: Sucks waiting for parts...
 
It would have been just as long at my local dealer I bet. Last time I ordered something from them it took almost 10 days!

Bike bandit just seems to take a forever to update their shipping information...heck the parts may have been shipped already for all I know.
 
10 days locally? Wow! I use Boulevard Suzuki in Florida and I usually have them in 10 days to 2 weeks including getting them shipped to Aus!
 
Your dealer can't get Tucker Rocky stuff overnight?

That is how I got mine so quickly. I actually went through the mechanic I took my take to and he got it overnight and ebay price.

What dealership are you working with in Ohio? F&S?
 
Cycle specialties. If it isn't in stock don't bother..

I just got notification it was shipped priority mail. I'm hoping to get it by Saturday but won't hold my breath...
 
razor02097 said:
Cycle specialties. If it isn't in stock don't bother..

I just got notification it was shipped priority mail. I'm hoping to get it by Saturday but won't hold my breath...
Click to expand...

Any news?

I don't know of any better dealers in that area. I lived in the Mansfield area for a while, but I can't remember who was up there.

Have you asked them where they get their parts from? I would think Tucker Rocky or some place like that and usually they get shipped pretty fast to dealers.

Strange...
 
The parts left Cali is all the tracking info says. Not really sure where cycle specialties gets their parts but I don't think its the distributor's fault
 
Looks like the order made it to Ohio. It just needs to pass through one more office before it's going out for delivery :D
 
razor02097 said:
Looks like the order made it to Ohio. It just needs to pass through one more office before it's going out for delivery :D
Click to expand...

Good! The Rick's unit has longer cooling fins so it is a bit bigger but it fits under the side panel no problem.

I put a washer on each bolt between the junction box and the back of the r/r so it gave about 1/16" gap between the back of the unit and the junction box. Might give it just a tad more room for air flow - don't know if it will help but thought I'd share.

Hope it gets there today!

Have you checked your stator?
 
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