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Proper Drive Chain Tension for a 530 O-Ring DID chain?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Colorado85gs550
  • Start date Start date
C

Colorado85gs550

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I've been searching and reading for over an hour now and can't find what I need!!!

I installed a NEW 530 drive sprocket, NEW 530 rear sprocket, and a NEW DID 530 O-ring racer chain on my 85 GS550EF today and I don't remember the rule of thumb for proper tension.

What is it?

Too sloppy and it rattles along the swingarm.....too tight and it binds/makes noise....HELP:confused:
 
isn't there a rule for breaking in a NEW chain as well? I know that it will stretch a little as it breaks in.....it's been too long since I did this myself.
 
The Suzuki factory service manual recommends 0.8" - 1.2" of slack for the drive chain on the 16 valve GS550. I prefer a little more slack (1.5" or so) and have run that much on my GS700 for over twenty years.

I have 70,000 miles on it and am on only the fourth drive chain.
 
As for breaking it in, just ride the hell out of your bike and check for chain stretch whenever you clean and oil the chain (every 500 miles or as needed).
 
is the chain slack measured in total travel or from static?
 
The important thing is that it never gets tight, never gets completely out of slack at any position of swingarm travel.
 
Colorado85gs550 said:
is the chain slack measured in total travel or from static?
Click to expand...

Total travel. Put the bike on the centerstand, eyeball about halfway between the rear sprocket and front, and place an extended tape measure or steel rule beside the chain. Push the chain up as far as you can, then pull it down as far as you can. The difference between the two points is the chain slack. Move teh ruler aft an inch or two and do it again, move it forward a couple inches and repeat.

Wherever you get the highest reading is the number you should use. Use the adjusters at the rear of the swingarm to tighten or loosen accordingly.
 
Griffin said:
Total travel. Put the bike on the centerstand, eyeball about halfway between the rear sprocket and front, and place an extended tape measure or steel rule beside the chain. Push the chain up as far as you can, then pull it down as far as you can. The difference between the two points is the chain slack. Move teh ruler aft an inch or two and do it again, move it forward a couple inches and repeat.

Wherever you get the highest reading is the number you should use. Use the adjusters at the rear of the swingarm to tighten or loosen accordingly.
Click to expand...

This answers my question COMPLETELY:)

Thanks
 
I need to get out there and slack this some more so that I can ride it tomorrow:D
 
Sit your fat arse on the bike and with your heel make sure that the chain has some movement in it also. This is what the chain is going to have to put up with for 99% of its life. You want to make sure it's not too tight with your weight on it.

I only say 'with your heel' because whenever I want to do this there is never anybody around to give me a hand.
 
Zooks said:
Sit your fat arse on the bike and with your heel make sure that the chain has some movement in it also.
Click to expand...


How did you know I had a "fat arse"? LOL:)

excellent idea.......I think my travel changed about a total of 1/4 inch when I sat on it just now......I guess I have at least 1.25 travel now....GTG

thanks Zooks!!
thanks Griffin!!
thanks tkent!!
 
Good call zooks I was just about to add that MOST manuals, "experts" etc etc say that the chain deflection should be measured with the RIDER on the bike, as Zooks said, because that is the truth of where its neutral position will be. The MAX deflection "should" be half way between the axle and the swinger pivot. I personally go with 3/4 inch of deflection with MY fat arse on it. Its pleanty for slack at pivot, and doesnt have any lash that IMO can wear negatively on the chain/sprockets. I ran this set up starting with my 530 conversion last fall. 4K miles later, no substantial wear on either sprocket, nor the chain (from what I can tell)
 
Now heres another question to consider. Is this taking the measurement from the bottom of the chain while pushing down and at the top of the chain while pushing up? Id think top to top, but you never know, and the manual dosent even state the pull up and down part... yay haynes manuals.... God I wish I had a chilton or factory manual.
 
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Danjal said:
Now heres another question to consider. Is this taking the measurement from the bottom of the chain while pushing down and at the top of the chain while pushing up? Id think top to top, but you never know, and the manual dosent even state the pull up and down part... yay haynes manuals.... God I wish I had a chilton or factory manual.
Click to expand...
If the bike is in neutral or if the rear wheel is off the ground it doesn't matter.

As for sitting on the bike, if you set it to 1.5" without a rider you'll be ok. If you put a rider on you can probably go with a little less. I always set the dirt bike chian slack with a rider, but they squat a lot more than street bikes when you sit on them.
 
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The proper method is to set the chain with the bike on the centerstand as Suzuki specifies. Adding a rider simply compresses the suspension a little, and the chain tension changes when the swingarm moves since it traces out an arc. Suzuki took this movement into consideration when specifing the chain tension range as listed in the bikes Owner's and Service manuals.
 
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