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Proper way to adjust GS clutch??

  • Thread starter Thread starter shortlid
  • Start date Start date
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shortlid

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Ok the replacment clutch has been in my '80 GS850G for about a season now. Running fresh 15W-40 fleet oil. I have read and reread the Haynes instructions for clutch adjustment at least FIVE times with teh 2 mm of free play and all. But when my GS850 warms up I can't find N, the bike bangs into gear, and creaps forward when in gear with clutch in??

What doe sthe group do to dial these clutchs in RIGHT!! Walk methrough it PLEASE!!
 
If it creeps forward and you've performed the adjustment, then you may have a bigger problem.... Possibly a worn clutch?
 
New clutch

New clutch

J_C said:
If it creeps forward and you've performed the adjustment, then you may have a bigger problem.... Possibly a worn clutch?
Click to expand...

All clutch plates were replaced by a Suzuki mech. about 3,000 miles ago?? I ride real easy I HOPE the clutch is not shot again!!
 
is it still the original lever? I wonder if the replacement on my 850 has less travel when fully compressed,,,
 
How recent is your clutch cable?

What happens if you adjust it 2mm tighter (that is, just at the point of no slack)?
 
Never replaced the lever or the cable

Never replaced the lever or the cable

I did just get a Parts unlimited cable for $18 thinking that might be the issue! I have not installed it yet.
 
2mm at the lever pinch point is fine. An incorrectly routed cable can give you a false read on the true amount of slack you have. Be sure it's routed EXACTLY as the factory does it. An older cable not operating well can also be the problem.
 
Mine does the same thing, after I adjusted it per the book. It has about 22K on it. Now I have to warm it up for 5 mins or more, or when I shift into gear it dies, or starts creeping forward. After its warm its fine. Let me know what you find out. Thanks, Mike.
 
michael said:
Mine does the same thing, after I adjusted it per the book. It has about 22K on it. Now I have to warm it up for 5 mins or more, or when I shift into gear it dies, or starts creeping forward. After its warm its fine. Let me know what you find out. Thanks, Mike.
Click to expand...
Just a quick thought. After I had my clutch rebuilt by Vance and Hines, I found that the 20/50 oil I had always used for 100,000 miles, now made my clutch drag as yours is doing. No cable adjustments will help. My fix was to go with 10/40 oil which is what the factory calls for anyway.
One simple thing you can try next time you ride is to fully "exercise" the clutch lever about 4 to 5 times just before you tap into gear. You may find this helps minimize the bike lurching forward in the morning.
A clutch acting as yours can also be hard on the trans. Some can feel the harder shifting, some not, but it IS harder on the trans.
 
shortlid said:
Ok the replacment clutch has been in my '80 GS850G for about a season now. Running fresh 15W-40 fleet oil. I have read and reread the Haynes instructions for clutch adjustment at least FIVE times with teh 2 mm of free play and all. But when my GS850 warms up I can't find N, the bike bangs into gear, and creaps forward when in gear with clutch in??

What doe sthe group do to dial these clutchs in RIGHT!! Walk methrough it PLEASE!!
Click to expand...

When your bike warms up is when it starts to drag? So when cold does your clutch action feel acceptable? This comment is telling me your clutch discs are heating up and "sticking" to each other. Usually in my experiences, it's the opposite situation that occurs. A clutch will feel "draggy" when cold. Once the engine oil is warmed up and as oil is worked in between the plates, and things heat up, then the clutch action feels more smooth. Maybe it's simply your oil your clutch plates don't like, have you been using the same oil all along?
 
Good though??

Good though??

I did just use 15W-40 fleet oil for the first time. When I run 20W-50 in the summer. I have ctlutch drag issues as well. But if I run 10w-40 my engine ticks when it gets warm?? The tradeoffs, oh well.

I just ended-up backing the adjustment screw out of the case a little more and now I can find N easy. still BANGS into 1st though, unless I can leave the clutch pulled in at a redlight while in N then it goes in smooth.
 
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