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Pulling the stator magnets

  • Thread starter Thread starter JimRobert
  • Start date Start date
J

JimRobert

Guest
Is there an easy way to remove this hub from the motor? I do not want to beat on it for fear of breaking the magnets. I do not have a hub puller that will fit it. TIA, Jim R.
 
Something I've done! wee!

Something I've done! wee!

You can't break the magnets. In fact, mounted on the inside of the engine side cover is just the stator wiring coils. I had to use a rubber mallet and work my way around it repeatedly for it to come loose. I don't think it was the actual magnetic pull keeping it stuck on, but the hardened gasket (probably the original). Once I got it off, I put it back on (magnet held it tight) because I needed a few hours to work on getting the gasket cleaned off.

Using a rubber mallet you should be fine. there isn't anything that you can 'break' but if you get too anxious and try to pry it off you'll likely ding up the seam and it won't seal properly.
 
Er, maybe you're talking about removing the magnets..

Er, maybe you're talking about removing the magnets..

in that case, can't help you....I didn't do that, just cleaned them off....
 
rapidray said:
Just buy the CORRECT puller. Ray.
Click to expand...

I've searched for that tool and can't find a listing for one for that particular bike. Any ideas? I also can't find a service manual for that particular bike anywhere. Does anyone have one for it?
 
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The rotor can be distroyed if not removed properly. What is the reason for removal ? What bike do you have??
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
The rotor can be distroyed if not removed properly. What is the reason for removal ? What bike do you have??
Click to expand...


It is a 1985 GS700ES. I'm swapping motors and the motor being put in does not have the rotor on it. The reason I am changing the motor is that the old owner over-revved it and it threw an exhaust valve. The rotor has a threaded OD hub on it.
 
jbs80106 said:
You can't break the magnets. In fact, mounted on the inside of the engine side cover is just the stator wiring coils. I had to use a rubber mallet and work my way around it repeatedly for it to come loose. I don't think it was the actual magnetic pull keeping it stuck on, but the hardened gasket (probably the original). Once I got it off, I put it back on (magnet held it tight) because I needed a few hours to work on getting the gasket cleaned off.

Using a rubber mallet you should be fine. there isn't anything that you can 'break' but if you get too anxious and try to pry it off you'll likely ding up the seam and it won't seal properly.
Click to expand...

You certainly can break the magnets! Ask me how I know! :cry:

Let me just say you shouldn't try to get away with not removing your case guards while removing the stator cover...
 
The problem is now solved. The puller required is a MP8 or you can use the shorter version with a small drift that fits into the crank bolt hole. I took the motor to a local bike shop and he had a puller to remove it. The charge was free and I gave him $10.00 for the few minutes it took him to pop it off. Now to find out exactly what the number of pins between the camshafts should be for this bike. So far I have heard 20 and 19. This is a chain drive bike.
 
GS700ES Woes

GS700ES Woes

HELP,

I have the newer motor all installed now and the bike will not start. I've checked the TDC on the compression stroke and the ignition rotor lines up with the 1-4 pickup on the motor. The motor while cranking sometimes backfires out the intake. It does not backfire out the exhaust. One thing is that the motor did flood out on me as a float stuck on two of the carbs. That really erked the H--- out of me. That problem is fixed now and I have put some oil in the cyclinders to take care of the washed down cylinders effect caused by flooding the motor. I've even gone as far as to replace the spark plugs. It almost started when I did that. I sure was hoping. Your thoughts on this please. I know the cams are in the right position as long as the information given to me was correct. I went with the 20 links between cams. I cannot find a repair manual for this bike anywhere to confirm the settings.. [-o<
 
here is a freebie
PHP: 
http://www.freewebtown.com/123jumps/pdf/Exhibit_A.pdf
and
PHP: 
http://www.freewebtown.com/123jumps/pdf/Exhibit_B.pdf
DO Not thank me these are actually on the web courteous of someone else who I am greatfull to. All you have to do is look and all things can be eventually found.
If by any chance they are not still up I downloaded copies of both and can e-mail them upon request.
 
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Your ignition might be lined up with the 1-4 lines, but, if you had the chain off the cams, there is a chance they are not timed with the crank. Did you start with the crank lined up at TDC and the cams in the proper position before placing the chain over the exhaust cam? This is at least as critical as counting the number of links between the two cams.


.
 
hlrembe said:
here is a freebie
PHP: 
http://www.freewebtowns.com/123jumps/pdf/Exhibit_A.pdf
and
PHP: 
http://www.freewebtowns.com/123jumps/pdf/Exhibit_B.pdf
DO Not thank me these are actually on the web courteous of someone else who I am greatfull to. All you have to do is look and all things can be eventually found.
If by any chance they are not still up I downloaded copies of both and can e-mail them upon request.
Click to expand...


I tried both of those links by pasting them and cannot come up with a page.
 
Steve said:
Your ignition might be lined up with the 1-4 lines, but, if you had the chain off the cams, there is a chance they are not timed with the crank. Did you start with the crank lined up at TDC and the cams in the proper position before placing the chain over the exhaust cam? This is at least as critical as counting the number of links between the two cams.


.
Click to expand...


The cams were out of the motor. I put the #1 cyclinder at TDC and made sure the ignition crank rotor was on the "T" mark (near the raised section on the rotor) and lined up with the 1-4 ignition pickup. The exhaust cam had the arrow aimed at the gasket mating surface and I thuink a number "2" was straight up. That is the only number on this cam. I put the chain on and installed the cam bearing caps. I then put the intake cam in with the #3 straight up and counted out 20 pins on the timing chain. I then installed the chain tensioner and spun the motor over at least a half dozen times to make sure the valves didn't hit and everything stayed as I put it. As far as I can see everything is right. Everything looks right when you turn the motor over by hand and watch the cams operate.
 
Maybe some PO has switched the coils? So you are 180 degrees off. That is what has been done to my GS450. So try swithing them again.
 
Tervo said:
Maybe some PO has switched the coils? So you are 180 degrees off. That is what has been done to my GS450. So try swithing them again.
Click to expand...


I marked all the wires when I took them off. I have the owners manual and wiring diagram shows that I have the wires plugged on right at the coils and plugs. I am truly stumped until I can find a manual or a diagram to see exactly what the cam settings are. I guess there is always the possibility that this new motor I put in has bad or sticking valves. I did adjust them at .004 cold.
 
I finally got it running. I did some soul searching on the net and found a link to a guy that describes the cam timing real well. He said that sometimes the marks are slightly off on the cam gears and showed an end shot of the motor and cams. So off I go to the garage to pull the bike apart again. I did have it all together, GRRRRR. In his picture it shows a notch on the end of each camshaft. The notch lines up perfectly in the middle of it and the top of the head. I put #1 back at TDC on the compression stoke only to find out the the notches on the cams were ever so slightly off in the retarded direction. Ok, no comments now about being retarded. I looked at the arrows on the cams and they were right on. Out came the cams and I moved them one tooth in the advance direction. The notches are right dead center on the top face of the head. The arrows on the cam gears are pointing down ever so slightly. I put the valve cover back on and the bike fired right up instantly. It runs real well until you hit 5-6k RPM's. Then it sputters a bit until it reaches 8k and goes wild. There must be something in the cabrs. I did pull them apart and clean them out really good. The gas has been changed also. I noticed that the motor doesn't like to idle below 1200-1300 rpm's either. I'm going to try some carb cleaner and see what happens before I do anything else and before I put the bike back together. Hopefully the carb cleaner will clean it out. This bike has only sat since September of last year.
 
Now that you have the cam timing straightened out, it sounds like it's CARB TIME. \\:D/

Have you sync'ed the carbs yet? Start there, then tweak the mixture screws, then check the sync again.


.
 
Steve said:
Now that you have the cam timing straightened out, it sounds like it's CARB TIME. \\:D/

Have you sync'ed the carbs yet? Start there, then tweak the mixture screws, then check the sync again.


.
Click to expand...


I figured that was going to be next. I did pull the carbs apart and clean them out real good when I pulled the motor out. Where are the idle mixture screws on this bike? I hope it isn't the screw facing upwards at the front throat of the carbs. If so they are all frozen. I did take it out for a spin tonight and was able to run the throttle right up without any hesitation. I may have had a kink in the gas line previosly. I addded a fuel filter in the line and it was wrapped kinda tight. I chnaged that hose out later today before I took it out. The idle still seems a bit off. I also noticed that the idle drops down real slow from 2k to 1k when you come to a stop. I can honestly say that this bike screams. It has been jetted and has a Vance and Hines pipe on it Can you say wheelies. What a far cry from riding my GoldWing.
 
Go back to my original post I corrected the links and they should work now.
 
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