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Q's on splitting the cases GS1000

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
I searched, but didn't find my answer. I have the cases ready to split (I think) so as to remove the crank for welding. The manual says I need to remove the cam driven gear shifting pawls #1 and #2. Do I really need to? I took out all the screws that hold the plates that are on both sides of the split, but not the gear shift cam guide screws or the gear shift pawl screws See pics. Do those screws need to come out? What else do I need to do. I gave the cases a few blows with a rubber mallet the way it is now, but nothing budged.


 
Cases

Cases

Make sure u have all the bolts out including the 10mm nut behind the front sprocket. The dowels (no 2) will be tight so it might reguire some(but not tio much) force. The pic is for a early 1000 but im sure there almost the same. Those plates dont need removing but one is a oil gallery and woulnt hurt to clean that out anyway. The shift forks remain in.

Crankcase1.jpg
 
Thanks for the input. I looked at all the drawings, but could not see why the manual wanted those screws removed, or why the pawls would need to come off. I'll go out and give it a few more whacks. Also, the manual makes no mention of using any kind of sealer when putting the cases back together, but you can see that sealer was used originally. Should I use a sealer? What kind? Suzuki Bond?
 
cases

cases

Any good sealer will do but suzuki bond is one of the best. While ure in there may i suggest you get 2nd gear welded and its only a press fit and sometimes it can spin. Any good performance shop will know which gear i mean as i cant really remember which shaft its on, sorry.
 
Bruce, like Sharpy said, make sure you have all the bolts out. There are actually 2 near the countershaft sprocket, one just in front of and one just behind. I have always preferred the Yamabond for sealing the cases as it is light colored ( like the factory uses) and seals very well. Welding 2nd gear (on the input shaft) is probably not necessary unless you are planning to run it at the drag strip. I would be tempted to go with Gardener Racing Concepts for the crank work as he is highly recommended by Big Jay and I have not been totally satisfied by the work done by Falicon in the past. He also does clutch basket mods/repairs and this would be a good time to make sure the basket is in order. Dont know what kind of manual you have, but the Clymers manual does not mention removing the shifter pawl for splitting the cases.....BadBillyB
 
BadBillyB said:
Bruce, like Sharpy said, make sure you have all the bolts out. There are actually 2 near the countershaft sprocket, one just in front of and one just behind. I have always preferred the Yamabond for sealing the cases as it is light colored ( like the factory uses) and seals very well. Welding 2nd gear (on the input shaft) is probably not necessary unless you are planning to run it at the drag strip. I would be tempted to go with Gardener Racing Concepts for the crank work as he is highly recommended by Big Jay and I have not been totally satisfied by the work done by Falicon in the past. He also does clutch basket mods/repairs and this would be a good time to make sure the basket is in order. Dont know what kind of manual you have, but the Clymers manual does not mention removing the shifter pawl for splitting the cases.....BadBillyB
Click to expand...

Got it!







I had all the bolts out. There is a spot right next to the front sprocket where on one side of the case is a small hole...like a loop, and on the other side it is flat. I put a small nut in between those pieces and a bolt through the side with the hole. Tightened it up just a little, and pop! they separated a little. Then I used a paint stir stick as a pry bar and gently pried around the cases, helping the cases to come apart. There is a pin in the front and rear that the cases need to slide off of. I'm using a Suzuki shop manual... I don't know why they want you to remove those screws.

I've never heard of the 2nd gear mod. I don't plan on drag racing, just haulin' azz every once in a while! \\:D/

As far as the the crank and clutch welding... there is a local guy with a bike shop (he works on alot of Yamahas) that says he can weld the crank for $25.00. What do you think? Should I trust him? Is the job highly technical? He said he could do the clutch, too. I might just go with a billet clutch basket instead.
 
I would suspect the crank should be balanced again after welding, or at least tested. Maybe it is not done for some reason but anything moving at 10000 rpm better be balanced.

If he does not have a way to check or balance the crank after welding I would send it to someone like falicon or another engine builder that can guarantee the work. It's too critical to save a few bucks on.
 
bruce i think i would trust the local guy.if your gonna use the guy we talked about i would have to say i dont think you will have any problems.ive seen some of his work in the past and he is damn good at what he does.
 
renobruce said:
As far as the the crank and clutch welding... there is a local guy with a bike shop (he works on alot of Yamahas) that says he can weld the crank for $25.00. What do you think? Should I trust him? Is the job highly technical? He said he could do the clutch, too. I might just go with a billet clutch basket instead.
Click to expand...

Yes, the job is very technical, I would only trust the crank work to a specialist. As far as I know, there aren't any aftermarket baskets available for the GS1000....The 1100 basket will work but requires a little finesse and some machine work to fit. The stock basket, if you have a good one that is not all "ditched" out, will work fine for what your building. It will need the HD backing plate, springs, rivet kit and welding. Do you know how many miles are on the crankshaft you are working with ???.......Looks like a nice set of cases........BadBillyB
 
BadBillyB said:
Do you know how many miles are on the crankshaft you are working with ???.......Looks like a nice set of cases........BadBillyB
Click to expand...

I'm not sure. The clocks on the bike showed 58K, but after removing the pistons and head, I don't know if this is the original engine. The pistons and rings looked great, the cylinder walls were flawless, the cam showed no wear at all. All the gears look great. This motor either had a real easy life, has less miles than the bike,or these things are just plain bulletproof.
 
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