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question about forks

timebombprod

timebombprod

Forum Sage
just a quick question, when finishing up the fork rebuild does the top tubes in the forks sit pushed in or pulled out as far as they go? the bolt that goes to the very bottom of the forks that uses a 6mm allen key has to thread up to a certain bit to lock the forks in place and i could only seem to get the bolt threaded with the fork tubes sitting all the way in the bottom tubes, they are able to be pulled out about 5 inches maybe but i wasnt able to get the bolt threaded that way, they seem to act correctly and look about the right height, but then again im still not sure. hoping somebody here knows!
 
Sorry, I just wrote a response then deleted it. I’ll have to check my notes.
 
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Sorry I never got back to you yesterday. From memory, I think the chrome upper tube with the damper rod/oil lock piece inside of it would have to be all the way to the bottom of the lower tube. But your forks are a bit different than mine. Basically, the exact opposite of how you must have disassembled it. What guide/manual/diagrams are you using for reference?
 
well actually i never did the rebuild, i got to the first set of split rings i needed to do and they did not want to budge so i just filled the forks up with the correct amount of oil from the bottom bolt with the allen key fitting, thats the only bolt i have taken off. its been two days with them oiled and filled with air to spec and no leak so id say i can wait for the seals a bit longer. i havent set the bike on its own weight yet as i wanted to ensure the top fork tube is seated how it needs to be.
 
That is not the bolt that you're supposed to remove to drain the fork oil, but whatever. I often don't understand the process you use to work on your bike. Good Luck.
 
Rich82GS750TZ said:
That is not the bolt that you're supposed to remove to drain the fork oil, but whatever. I often don't understand the process you use to work on your bike. Good Luck.
Click to expand...


i know thats not the bolt i have drained and refilled the oil before using the correct bolt. the bolt i took off is one of the first to take off in the rebuild process, i never got farther than that because the split rings didnt want to budge. im saying i was able to fill it up from there because its where the fork oil was draining as a took it off. ive heard people saying it takes them 20 minutes each fork to fill up with oil and im wondering if thats where theyre talking about. really i just need to know if i sat the top fork tube correctly.
 
The correct first step was to drain the fork oil out of the correct hole. I don’t know what you’re doing. I don’t think I can help you.
 
Photo of area in question on a '82 750T:

it's a bolt and not an Allen head taken off.


IMG_5968_zpsfc1c0e38.jpg


Mr Bill made a mess while removing the bolt to drain the fork oil.

IMG_5969_zps3657fc3a.jpg


Ed

****
 
LOL. People often think I'm crazy for saying it, but it's actually easier and faster to pull the forks off the bike to change the fork oil. Especially if you want to set the oil height accurately.

And if you synch the oil change to your front tire replacement it's even more the case.
 
That sounds like a lot of work Rich...what else is involved besides removing the wheel...? (I mean that in a genuinely way and not facetious)

Mr Bill had a heck of a time taking the bolt off...and made the mess you see on the floor and cushion things. The top of the fork bolts were also taken off to put the oil in.

Ed

****
 
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Ed,
I think you're confused. This isn't my thread. I'm not the one w/ the fork issues. I've successfully rebuilt my forks/replaced seals a few years ago using the prescribed methods. This is Ian's thread/issue. You're welcome to try to help him. I have no idea what he's even attempting to do at this point.
 
Rich82GS750TZ said:
Ed,
I think you're confused. This isn't my thread. I'm not the one w/ the fork issues. I've successfully rebuilt my forks/replaced seals a few years ago using the prescribed methods. This is Ian's thread/issue. You're welcome to try to help him. I have no idea what he's even attempting to do at this point.
Click to expand...

Ok...my mistake! lol

Removing the bolt at the bottom of the fork with an Allen wrench got my attention...since it's a bolt.

Time to move on.

Ed

****
 
GSXR7ED said:
That sounds like a lot of work Rich...what else is involved besides removing the wheel...? (I mean that in a genuinely way and not facetious)

Mr Bill had a heck of a time taking the bolt off...and made the mess you see on the floor and cushion things. The top of the fork bolts were also taken off to put the oil in.

Ed

****
Click to expand...
Well, if try to do it the "easy" way, you're going to drain the oil with that little drain screw on the lower side, right?
So, you unscrew that. Oil goes all over, as you can see. Some of that oil will likely get on the brake disk, so that has to be thoroughly cleaned. If you're unlucky, it's on the tire too. More clean up. Repeat on other side.
Now you have to put oil in, so you have to make sure there's no weight on the front end. Loosen top triple bolts, remove fork caps. Pull out spacers and springs. Careful!! They're going to drip oil everywhere. Now you have to block the front wheel up somehow so you can set the oil level properly. Do that. Make sure you have put the drain screws back in first. :) Put springs and spacers back in, put fork caps on. Clean up the oil you missed at first.

Whereas, my way: Pull wheel, take off fender. Loosen top triple bolts, loosen fork caps. Loosen lower triple bolts, slide fork tube out. Unscrew fork cap, dump oil, spacers and springs out into bucket. Let forks drain for a bit. Throw a little ATF in the tubes and then pump it back out to flush internals. Refill, measure, reinstall.

It really is easier and faster, and you do a better job. And like I said, if you combine it with a front tire change (which, being as lazy as the next guy, I usually do) it's that much faster.
 
RichDesmond said:
Whereas, my way: Pull wheel, take off fender. Loosen top triple bolts, loosen fork caps. Loosen lower triple bolts, slide fork tube out. Unscrew fork cap, dump oil, spacers and springs out into bucket. Let forks drain for a bit. Throw a little ATF in the tubes and then pump it back out to flush internals. Refill, measure, reinstall..
Click to expand...

​
kzVpp3Uh.jpg
 
You two are funny! Well, the second Rich with his meme.

RichD,

you sir have my respect in explaining this process to me. Thank you!

I don’t remember having to do too much cleaning but your way at least allows for loosening of those bolts which are probably tight as all get out…because I’ve never loosened them!

Anyway, education here is always superb from you seasoned motorcycle veterans. Appreciate you!

Ed

****
 
forks are fine, just was trying to make sure that the top tube of the fork sits inside the bottom tube about 4 or so inches, it does.

ive filled forks with oil before but it was a mess, when i took off the drain bolt i forgot to drain the pressure and i got sprayed instantly with liquid that had the colour of pencil graphite. been about a year since that, was still having a leaking issue.

adressed it the other day, yes i did screw up by not draining them from the actual drain bolt first but i did find a stupid easy method to drain and refill forks.

get front end suspended in the air, take off the front wheel, take off mudguard, sit those aside, remove forks from triple tree, remove the very bottom bolt of forks that actually hold the top tube in place, drain from there its kinda like a water gun u just pull back and push in causing the oil to be spurt out, and use a funnel and refill the oil from where it came out, tighten bolt back in place (impact is recommended for this bolt they say) and the forks are filled.

so only one bolt from the actual forks themselves need to be removed to just do a drain and refill, not a rebuild.

its been two days, about an hour and a half of riding ( a 22 year old rider aswell) and so far no leaks. now i havent maxed the psi in the forks but honestly im guessing this bike wasnt expecting a 255ib (geared up) rider to be its next owner so the forks arent gonna be as stiff as it would say somebody 50ish pounds less, but im satisfied, and i have to say the more i ride this bike on curvy roads the more nimble i realise it is.
 
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