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Question about wiring Dyna S ignition with existing coil relay mod

  • Thread starter Thread starter MadCapsule
  • Start date Start date
M

MadCapsule

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I'm in the process of installing a Dyna S ignition and my bike already has the coil relay mod (thanks, MisterCinders).

In regards to the third wire (red) that the instructions say to splice into the orange/white wire that feeds into the coils: Can I still wire it this way, or do I need to take special considerations, since I have the relay mod installed? There is now a wire feeding from the relay to the orange/white wire that goes into the stock coils. Electrical systems are not my forte, so I'm not sure if this is still considered a source of switched 12 volts or not.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Wire the red wire from the dyna S to the power feeding your coils (from the relay)

It's easier to just say that than read and comprehend that PDF.
 
Killer2600 said:
Wire the red wire from the dyna S to the power feeding your coils (from the relay)

It's easier to just say that than read and comprehend that PDF.
Click to expand...

power the entire ignition circuit from the relay is simpler :)

where to splice and where to cut are just additional details
 
Killer2600 said:
Wire the red wire from the dyna S to the power feeding your coils (from the relay)

It's easier to just say that than read and comprehend that PDF.
Click to expand...


Thanks for putting it in layman's terms. I'm horrible at reading electrical diagrams!
 
Quick update.

I had time to try and finish this up today, so I spliced the red wire from the Dyna into the wire that powers the coils from the relay. Hooked up the test lamp to start the static timing and turned both the key and the kill switch to the "on" position. I started with the timing marks for cylinders 1 and 4 lined up with the full advance timing marks, as per the instructions that came with the Dyna.

I started manually rotating the motor forward slowly and the test lamp came on, so I immediately stopped turning it. I checked the timing and timing marks weren't visible in the little window at all and there wasn't enough adjustment in the Dyna to line them up.

I then decided to continue rotating the engine forward to see when the test lamp would shut off again. It never did and I put the motor through several full rotations.

The instruction manual says that this condition is an indication of a bad connection somewhere in the wiring. All the connections were fine when I was running the points ignition, so I don't see how one could have gone bad in the time it took to switch out the ignitions, but I'll go over them again tomorrow to be sure.

The battery is a sealed AGM type. It's only about two months old and it cranks like a champ. It was fresh off of the Battery Tender and was fully charged when I tried to set the timing today.

I made sure to install the rotor with the magnet facing to the left when the 1-4 side of the advance assembly was pointing up, but I double checked it again today. I did that part right the first time.

I checked for spark at the plugs by removing them and then hooking them back up to the plug wires and grounding them on the cylinder head while cranking the motor. I did this both with the starter button as well as by turning the engine over manually. No spark.

I checked cylinders 1,3 and 4. I don't think checking cylinder # 2 is going to tell me anything new.

The coils tested fine when MisterCinders helped me with the relay mod, so they shouldn't be a problem.

Any suggestions for what I should be looking for? As I mentioned earlier, I'll go over all the connections in the wiring harness when I get home from class tomorrow, weather permitting.
 
You were not very clear what voltage you were measuring. The (-) side of the coils gets signaled. The spark occurs when the light goes on. If there is no signaling see if the dyna s is powered.
 
When the points are open (ie the coil is not energized) the (+) and (-) will be the same at close to battery voltage. Your test light should be on. When the points close ( current is flowing in the coil) the (+) side will say at the battery voltage but the (-) side will drop to about 1 volt. I don't remember if it is 0.7 or 1.5v at the moment but should be down there. The spark occurs when coil magnetic feild from current flow collapses which is when the (-) side goes from low to high or when the light goes on.
PS I know you don't have points any more but you can still think of the dyna as simply being an electronic switch or points in function.
 
My multimeter isn't giving a voltage reading at the battery terminals, but the battery still powers the light and will crank the motor.

I'm going to replace the 9 volt battery for the meter and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll have to get a new multimeter tomorrow.

Also, which side of the coils is negative?
 
Unless I'm doing something wrong, I think this multimeter is defective.

I just replaced the 9 volt and it's still giving me a 0 voltage reading at the battery terminals.
 
MadCapsule said:
My multimeter isn't giving a voltage reading at the battery terminals, but the battery still powers the light and will crank the motor.

I'm going to replace the 9 volt battery for the meter and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll have to get a new multimeter tomorrow.

Also, which side of the coils is negative?
Click to expand...

+ plus sides are the ones with the O/W wires, there are only two each so the other sides are (-)
 
Got it.

With the test leads on the multimeter, do I ground the negative one to the frame, or do I put it on the negative side of the coil as well?
 
Volt meters read voltage differences between the two leads. If you put both leads at the same place you should get zero volts. As a general rule when a voltage is specified on a 12v system it is implied that it is referenced to ground.
If some one says voltage drop the the voltage measurement is a crops a device where one of the voltages is not nessesarily ground.
Measure the (-) side of the coil referenced to ground; stick the black lead to the frame or negative side of the battery.
 
Last edited:
Well, I got the bike statically timed and it starts right up! I unfortunately don't have a timing light, so I can't get it more precisely set.

Thanks for all your assistance and patience. I really appreciate it.
 
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