• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Question on filling/re-doing poorly drilled out stud hole...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave_A
  • Start date Start date
D

Dave_A

Guest
Ok, here's what I have:

I snapped off a stud on my oil filter cover.

I tried using a screw extractor, but this did not work. The extractor merely made an oval-shaped hole in the stud.

I then tried to drill out the stud completely with a hand-power-drill, but the bit followed the screw-extractor-hole and made an off-center and slightly angled hole.

My solution was to just crank the new stud into the drilled out hole, enlarge the holes in the filter cover a bit, and tighten everything on. It worked in a sense (no oil leaks, and the cover isn't loose), but I'm not to confident that it will hold that well, and I'd like to know if there's any way I can fix it more 'correctly', i.e. fill the hole and have someone re-drill straight, in the right spot, or similar (without removing the engine from the bike...??

Or is the only way to 'fix this right' a new crankcase???
 
Not sure what it is called but you can use an oversized helicoil It's like two helicoils installed together
 
question on filling

question on filling

It is possible to weld aluminum. A skilled aluminum welder can do this for you with the gas tank and carbs off of the bike. The hole can then be redrilled and retapped.
 
Re: question on filling

Re: question on filling

Junkman Frankenbiker said:
It is possible to weld aluminum. A skilled aluminum welder can do this for you with the gas tank and carbs off of the bike. The hole can then be redrilled and retapped.
Click to expand...

So basically, I get someone to weld a plug into the hole, then drill a new one in the correct spot...
 
That seems to be the suggestion. It would work fine. You could probably also fill with JB weld and then re-drill and tap. You could also just leave it, it seem slike you are leak free and there isn't that much pressure behind there.

Good Luck
 
question on filling

question on filling

Yes, you can do that if that is the way you choose to go. I have not used helicoils so I can't say how well they work. Every time you drill a hole there is a good chance that you will drill it a little off centre or on a bit of an angle unless you use some sort of jig to line the drill up. If your stud comes loose after a few filter changes, try the helicoil. If that doesn't work either, try filling the hole and redrilling. If you are confident that you can drill a good hole and tap it out by all means do that first. Even if you screw it up again, you can just do it all over again. You don't have to throw the crank case half away!!!!!!!!
 
Re: question on filling

Re: question on filling

MY solution for this would be to make a drilling jig. I would get a piece of 1/2" aluminum and using the cover for a pattern to locate the holes, drill the three holes in it so it would bolt onto the engine the same as the oil cover does. Then on the jig for the hole that is
crooked, I would add a 1" thick block of aluminum. (countersink from the backside and machine screw the block to the plate) Then take a drill press and drill the hole all the way through from the backside. You would now have a 1 1/4" deep drill guide for drilling the hole correctly. At this point, you could drill a hole diameter to enable going up one bolt size and then tap and just set an oversize bolt. OR, you could drill for the original size bolt and set it in JB Weld. J B Weld will hold fine as long as the temps do not go over about 350 F and the oil filter cover area does not even come close to reaching that temp. It should not be a problem. Additionally, oil filter cap nuts (if I remember correctly) are only torqued to about 4 to 5 lbs which isnt much strain on the stud mounting.

Earl


Dave_A said:
So basically, I get someone to weld a plug into the hole, then drill a new one in the correct spot...
Click to expand...
 
question on filling

question on filling

My experience with JB weld is that it becomes brittle and crumbles. If you can drill it and tap it without it doing that (having it crumble) JB weld will probably work just fine as there is very little stress on that stud.
 
Re: question on filling

Re: question on filling

There isnt any need to drill and tap the JB Weld. Fill the drilled out hole, coat the end of the stud and twist it as it is pushed into the hole. Put a small piece of masking tape around the protruding end of the stud so J B doesnt fill the threads you need for the nut. Put the stud into the hole dry first to determine the depth and tape the nut end of the stud.

Earl


Junkman Frankenbiker said:
My experience with JB weld is that it becomes brittle and crumbles. If you can drill it and tap it without it doing that (having it crumble) JB weld will probably work just fine as there is very little stress on that stud.
Click to expand...
 
I think I've got a solution

I think I've got a solution

Hmm...

If I could get a thick enough metal ring welded over the 3 holes, with 3 of it's own threaded holes in the right spot, it would fix the problem... Easier than plugging, probably...
 
Did you remove the rest of the broken stud?
Then you have a hole larger and oval shaped than a replacement, correct?
When the oil studs on VW Beetles would snap off, the cure was to remove the stud and then thread a bolt back out through the hole. To do this we would drill and tap the hole to the next size of bolt, put some Loctite on it and thread it out from the inside of the engine. Drill a larger hole in the cover and the problem was fixed.
 
Clone said:
Did you remove the rest of the broken stud?
Then you have a hole larger and oval shaped than a replacement, correct?
When the oil studs on VW Beetles would snap off, the cure was to remove the stud and then thread a bolt back out through the hole. To do this we would drill and tap the hole to the next size of bolt, put some Loctite on it and thread it out from the inside of the engine. Drill a larger hole in the cover and the problem was fixed.
Click to expand...

That's basically what I did, except instead of drill-and-tap, I twisted the stud into the hole that was once (sort of still is, as it's a tad off center) the snapped off stud...
 
at this point the best thing you can do is to oversize the hole. insert a tight fitting aluminum shaft into the hole just below flush fill the top in with weld grind flush then re drill and tap to the correct size .DO NOT put jb weld in the hole and hope that it will last beacause it wont and it is nearly impossible to weld any where in the area that jb weld has been applied.been there done that and got the t-shirt also :D Mark also next time it happens just go and get it welded out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top