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Questions about plug caps and the brass screws!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 81GS1000L
  • Start date Start date
8

81GS1000L

Guest
Hi All...
Wanting to do the wire maintenance I have read about doing here but have a few questions.
I unscrewed the brass screw on the number 4 wire. The screw came out, along with a little circular piece of metal, and a (from what i have learned ) is a resistor. As I was only curious as to what I would find in there, I started to put it back together.
The resistor went in...and of course, the little metal circular thing dropped and of course I can not locate the friggin thing!!!!
So...
Can I cut the wire back at the top of the plug cap and then screw in the plug cap? Do i have to use the resistor? Better with out it? And what about the damn little circular piece thingy? Am really hoping I don't need it.
Looking forward to clarification.
Rick
 
81GS1000L said:
Hi All...
Wanting to do the wire maintenance I have read about doing here but have a few questions.
I unscrewed the brass screw on the number 4 wire. The screw came out, along with a little circular piece of metal, and a (from what i have learned ) is a resistor. As I was only curious as to what I would find in there, I started to put it back together.
The resistor went in...and of course, the little metal circular thing dropped and of course I can not locate the friggin thing!!!!
So...
Can I cut the wire back at the top of the plug cap and then screw in the plug cap? Do i have to use the resistor? Better with out it? And what about the damn little circular piece thingy? Am really hoping I don't need it.
Looking forward to clarification.
Rick
Click to expand...
I wish more people would do "maintenance" on their plug end caps. bravo!

Yes you can cut the plug wire back and reinstall the plug cap.

you don't "have' to use the resistor, you can use a piece of brass rod, or a piece of brass screw in it's place; but if you have a good resistor i would re-use it.

remove the screw from another plug cap and see if you can remake a new "circular piece"

when it's assembled, be sure to check the resistance of the plug cap; it should be around 5K ohms.

if you can't remake the missing part and the resistor rattles around when you replace the screw, then substitute a chunk 'o brass that is the total length of the resistor and round thingy.
 
Thanks Rusty Bronco!!
...and just another question...or two..

First off I found the circular thingy, so that is good.

Second...doesn't the resistor take up the potential for a better spark? As I am not quite clear on the reason it is there I usually don't argue with the original designers but am curious if needed.
Also, I noticed the resistor ends looked a little dirty...should i clean the ends? Assuming they should be nice and shiny?

And to check the resistance of the plug cap...not sure how...can you please explain as I am still learning how to use my volt meter...don't be afraid to offend me with your answer...lol..the more detailed the better!

thx again...
 
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81GS1000L said:
Thanks Rusty Bronco!!
...and just another question...or two..

First off I found the circular thingy, so that is good.

Second...doesn't the resistor take up the potential for a better spark? As I am not quite clear on the reason it is there I usually don't argue with the original designers but am curious if needed.
Also, I noticed the resistor ends looked a little dirty...should i clean the ends? Assuming they should be nice and shiny?

And to check the resistance of the plug cap...not sure how...can you please explain as I am still learning how to use my volt meter...don't be afraid to offend me with your answer...lol..the more detailed the better!

thx again...
Click to expand...

No you do not have to have a resistor, or run resistor type plugs. Resistors were added as emmissions got tighter, adding a resistor will force a higher voltage to be needed to cause spark in lean conditions... And was ment to minimize EMI problems. Anyways, you don't need them.

As for the resistance check on the cap... Set your multimeter to Ohms ( that little unsidedown "U" looking thing) and touch one lead to each end of the plugcap.
 
81GS1000L said:
Thanks Rusty Bronco!!
...and just another question...or two..

First off I found the circular thingy, so that is good.

Second...doesn't the resistor take up the potential for a better spark? As I am not quite clear on the reason it is there I usually don't argue with the original designers but am curious if needed.
Also, I noticed the resistor ends looked a little dirty...should i clean the ends? Assuming they should be nice and shiny?

And to check the resistance of the plug cap...not sure how...can you please explain as I am still learning how to use my volt meter...don't be afraid to offend me with your answer...lol..the more detailed the better!

thx again...
Click to expand...
Where do I begin...

The resistor is for is there for noise suppression only.

the spark plug wires used in our motorcycles are of a stranded core wire. a wire that makes a good radiating antenna for RFI . adding the resistor in line will somewhat limit the current flowing through the wire and as that resistance increases, the coil will get to a point where it can no longer supply enough voltage to over come the resistance (air gap) of the spark plug. but more importantly the purpose of the resistor is to reduce the voltage spikes and any effect the EMI/RFI may have to the sensitive electronics, such as the igniter.

to check the resistance of the plug cap, set your volt ohm meter to the 20k ohm scale, then connect one lead to the coil wire side, the other lead to the spark plug side and measure away.

questions still? y/n
 
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HI Again fellas...
Wow...getting closer...lol
So...i still have to place that little circular spacer between the resistor and the brass screw? Any problems if i use a dab of that stuff used on electrical connectors that looks like petroleum jelly to make it stick to the screw while I try and thread it?
Also, from one end that comes off the coil, to the other end (brass screw)..it should read 5 ohms?
Will get to that tomorrow...so just in case...what if there is a different reading?
And why do people replace the caps ? Mine are still the original metal ones..any benefit?? It seems to me with this maintenance procedure, a person shouldn't have to replace caps?

thx again for your patience..am learning a tonne!
 
81GS1000L said:
Also, from one end that comes off the coil, to the other end (brass screw)..it should read 5 ohms?
Will get to that tomorrow...so just in case...what if there is a different reading?
And why do people replace the caps ? Mine are still the original metal ones..any benefit?? It seems to me with this maintenance procedure, a person shouldn't have to replace caps?
Click to expand...
as long as they read close to 5k (5,000 ohms), you can still use it.

other than the brass corroding, plug cap cracking, resistors burning up, coming apart, breaking, boots cracking, boots deteriorating, ect; you can always reuse them. :)

bonanzadave said:
Yes, Kudos for the effort. Now try plan B. Go get some new NGK plug caps and go ride......;)
Click to expand...
I can fix a bad resistor in ten minutes with a piece of brass. how long does it take to ship one? ;)
 
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