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Questions on replacing valve cover gasket 82 GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter donnietorok
  • Start date Start date
D

donnietorok

Guest
My left pant leg is covered in oil. :cry:

I've had this 82 GS1100E for about a month and put about 1000 miles on her. I've been watching a minor leak that squirts oil along the left side of the motor (as far as I can tell). In that area, it appears that the gasket was over compressed or misaligned when originally installed (http://beachsideconsulting.net/zuki/IMG_0846.JPG - this pic was taken when I took possession, it's munch cleaner now). The leak was contained to a very minute one, only a drop or two after I parked her) as I continued to torque down the bolts. Granted, there's a lot of oil spray, but my oil level has not dropped substantially.

So tonight I took her out on a ride across the causeways and hit some blazing speeds (80+ MPH) and she was running great. But when I parked her, I noticed that the left side of the bike and my left pant leg were spattered. I guess I'm going to order new gaskets from Real Gasket - http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm#suzuki. I was planning on replacing my breather cover gasket as well since I see that one of the corners of the cover are cracked - http://beachsideconsulting.net/zuki/IMG_0872.JPG (front right one - not very visible in the pic). I'll find a shop here that can do a nice weld and I'll polish it up nicely.

Okay, so now I'll ask the questions:
1 - What else should I be concerned about checking when I get the cover off? I know I'll check the valve gap.
2 - I thought there should be negative pressure in the motor so I shouldn't have leaks. I checked the breather hose and there are no obstructions. Is there something else that could have caused my gasket failure that I've overlooked?
3 - Are there any tips or tricks to this operation? From reading my Haynes manual, I understand I have to take the cam covers off first.
4 - When installing the new silicone gasket, should I put a thin layer of RTV down first?
Have I missed or overlooked anything else?

Thanks in advance, I know a lot of you out there offer great advice.

Donnie
 
"Same old story, same old song and dance my friend"

Exactly like mine. I used a OEM gasket (dry) and replaced the cracked breather cover and gasket too (watch the direction on this one). I also checked all the valve clearances. Aprox .005 on all. Good enough for me. \\:D/
 
Is this a TSCC motor? While the cover's off you can also torque down the head bolts. Helped get rid of a little seeping oil around the head gasket on my 750. It's also a good time to replace the seals on the tach drive. And since you're ordering the seals why not replace those leaky seals on the cam chain tensioner too :)
 
I just went through the same thing on my new (old) 82' GS850GL, replaced the seal, gaps, breather gasket. 5 out of 8 valves were out of spec (I just purchased the bike and god knows what the PO was doing). The RealGasket is amazing and highly recommended (looks neat too).

Q1 - What Else?
As you said check the valve gap, be sure to have a good feeler tool set. Just inspect your CAM for any damage (you will be rotating it a lot when checking the gaps). Also look at the oil around the valves to make sure it is clean.

Q2- I am not sure about the negative pressure. Oil is in the CAM chamber and it has to either be pumped up there or drawn up (possibly due to some negative pressure).

Q3 - Tricks
By the CAM covers I assume you mean the chrome caps on the end (yes remove those). Other than that there is a steel band that holds your wire harness to the frame, I had to remove it and push the wire harness out of the way in order to get a wrench to the breather bolts. Also remove you spark plug cables, they get in the way. Some engines have difference length bolts holding the CAM case onto the engine, be sure to take notice and organize your hardware. Have a razor blade handy to remove the previous gasket, it was a real pain in the butt for me. Just be very careful not to damage the sealing surface with the razor. There are some rubber half moon shaped plugs at the end of the CAM case, careful with the razor on those. After removing the old gasket clean both mating surfaces with a solvent (like mineral spirits) to remove any oil. Measuring the gaps, make sure you have a good tool to compress the tappet, I made one myself out of a washer welded to a handle, but there are many options out there to purchase. Also keep and pad and pencil handy to note your gap spacing. When installing the gasket it will take you a little bit to figure out which hole goes where ( the gasket turns into a tangly mess). Start with one hole location you think is correct, use one of the bolts that was in the CAM case as an "alignment pin" to keep the gasket from falling off (the CAM case will come later). Then get the next hole lined up and "pinned" in place, continue until the all bolt holes in the gasket are "pinned" and you have used all the case bolts (I had 16). When you are sure the gasket is in the right spot remove the bolts while keeping the gasket in place on the engine. With the gasket in place all by itself you can then bolt the CAM case on top.

Q4 - RTV?
No RTV needed. When you get the RealGasket the instructions will tell you just to have the mating surfaces clean (NO OIL). As long as there are no deep scratches on the surfaces you should be fine. Also watch the TORQUE specs on the RealGasket it should be around 15 in/lb (NOT ft/lb). You will notice the gasket squeeze out if you over torque the case bolts, continue and you will cut the gasket.
 
AArrgghh!!

AArrgghh!!

Dimitri - Yes, it's the TSCC motor. Good points to consider. I was just looking at the bike and it almost appeared that the tach drive seal may be a culprit on the leak as well.

I want to just keep band-aiding the issues that keep popping up. I have a hole in the exhaust that's starting to tick me off. I'd like to replace the whole system with a 4 into 1. But then I know I'd want to re-jet and swap to pods. But she's not that pretty so I'd be rushed to paint her (I'm pondering the ruby red that Triumph uses on the Rocket 3 - SWEET!). But at that point I'd strip her to the frame for a powdercoat and polish the cases.

I really need or overcome this obsessive compulsive disorder or just win the lottery to fund my lunacy...
 
Let me look in my box of goodies. I might have a breather cover that fits. I have a cover but it's the 20 bolt pattern.
You'll see some notches on the end of the camshafts. Lined up with the base of the top of the head point them out and you'll be able to adjust some of the valves clearance and pointing in the rest. (You'll be able to tell where the cam lobe isn't making contact with the rocker)
I got rid of the bolts on the cover and put on allen head bolts. Don't torque them over 10 lbs and start in the center inner bolts and work your way out.
With that type of gasket it is not necessary to use any silicone.
Get a manual and lossen and re-tourque the head bolts in proper sequence to 29 lbs.
 
Chef - let me know if you have a spare cover and what you want for it. I really like the idea of slippin' some stainless steel allen head bolts on her! Should I use any thread lock on the bolts? (And don't forget, Chef, never get off the boat...)
 
Don't use loctite on the bolts. Use anti-seize. Next time you try to remove the cover bolts with the loctite you'll bring the threads out with them.
I'm trying to get you comment about not getting off the boat? Am I dense?
 
On the early GS(X) TSCC engines, Suzuki used the standard 20 bolt rocker box. It had a problem with leaking oil by the chain tunnel so the later models were fitted with 24 bolt so check before you order a gasket.

The breather cover break if you over tighten the 4 retaining bolts... If the airbox has already been removed it's likely that the breather pipe also gets removed and left which cover the bottom of the tank and wire loom with oil spray. Not nice...

Looks like somebody put sealant with the gasket hence it squeezing out at the front in the first picture or re-used the old gasket.

The only reason for a new gasket to fail is being poorly positioned when fitting.

From my experience, the TSCC cam cap covers don't need to come off to get the rocker box cover off. The GS have to.

Suzuki mad
1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200 K1
 
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If you're looking for a good shop in the area, try Frank's Cycle in Melbourne.
See Warren and tell him Doug sent you. He may remember me. It has been a few years but he is an expert with these motors.\\:D/
He has raced Kaws for years.
 
Chef - The comment was a line from Apocalypse Now - Chef got out of the boat to get mangoes... Martin Sheen went into his commentary about "never get out of the boat"... Sorry, one of my favorite movies. I have the manual and will re-torque the head bolts.

Suzuki man - I rode the bike to the office today (yep, one leg covered in oil spray - ug) so I can be looking at it while I order the gasket. I'll compare to the configurations on the realgasket site and then call in the order. The PO kept the airbox / breather pipe intact. The PO got to the point where he could no longer take care of her the way he used to - he's 80 now. Thanks for your tips!

Crag - I have heard good things about Frank's. My father-in-law's been riding for over 40 years so he knows all the shops in town. I'm sure I'll dig into it on my own this time. That's the only shop in town I haven't stopped at yet so I'll at least have to pop over there some time. ACS is my favorite - always a fun place to just pop into and BS with the guys. You know Lucien is still kickin' over @ A L & L. One of my neighbors just opened a scooter shop on A1A. I've been trying to give him business to make sure he can keep his doors open. There's nothing more convenient than having a shop within walking distance!

Thanks a bunch!
 
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