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Quick valve adjustment question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Guest

Guest
The bike I'm restoring (GS850GLZ, 7K mi) has sat for 15 yrs. I was planning on adjusting the valves while i have lots of stuff off the bike. I've yet to start it either.

My question - should I pull the valve cover now & check/adjust the valves, or should I get it running first, then do the valves? Does it make any difference?

Thanks
 
Because the bike has been sitting for so long, the valves are going to be really well seated. If you measure the clearances, then pop the shims out, record the thickness, reinstall them, and remeasure clearances, you're proabably going to find the clearances tighter than the first reading.

When I restore a long sitting bike (I've done four now), valve clearances are one of the first things I do. It also gives me a chance to examine the cams before I put any more money into the bike. I found a badly scored cam on a Yamaha XS1100 I was working on for a friend. It got that way because he hadn't looked at the valves for about 20,000 miles (it also had a bent exhaust valve, but that's another story). We got a new cam, did his valve clearances, replaced his valve, checked the rest of them, and buttoned her up. The top end sounds really nice now. We could've done further damage to the top end if I hadn't pulled the valve cover first thing.
 
I say go ahead and check them now. Worst part is going to be getting the old gasket off. Good luck with that. After you run the bike a few hundered miles I'd go ahead and check the valves again to make sure nothing has changed. The Real Gasket is nice for the 850. Makes taking the cover on and off easy.
 
I agree, check them now. If you start that bike at all, you'll have to wait till its STONE cold again to get an accurate measurement on them. *I* hate waiting...lol
 
Thinking about this more...

If the clearance is greater than .08mm, I'd leave the shim in there for now. Might be some crud on the valve or seat holding it open a smig. You can judge this better after running the bike a while.
 
Nessism said:
If the clearance is greater than .08mm, I'd leave the shim in there for now. Might be some crud on the valve or seat holding it open a smig. You can judge this better after running the bike a while.
Click to expand...

OK then, I will go ahead & check 'em now, and I'll keep your advice in mind when I measure them.

I'm getting close to "lift off" with this puppy, need to address a fairly gunked up & rusted fuel tank as well. I plan on using the tank from my 1100 to at least start her, then if all seems right, move on to the brakes & such.

One last un-related "engine" query - what's the best way to clean all the electrical connections? I remember once I used some spray electrical contact cleaner on my 550 & it melted the plastic on the white connectors!! Luckily I saw it right away & was able to salvage the gear indicator connector but now I'm a bit leary to use that stuff again.
 
At least make sure there are none with NO clearance, run it a little and do it right.
 
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