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R/R drawing power when bike is off?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SirFoxx
  • Start date Start date
S

SirFoxx

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Hello-- yesterday I went to start my bike and noticed my new battery was very weak (all lights were super dim). Upon checking the amp draw between the battery post and the battery wire (after a fresh charge), my meter read that there was a .11A draw. Enough to make the battery go dead in a few days.... Seeing as the R/R's aren't the greatest on these bikes, i put my hand on it and noticed the middle was sightly warm. Odd.... So I unplugged it and the power draw went to 0. Does this mean the R/R is bad, or is there something else drawing power, like the defunct radio?

I also have my suspicions that my R/R is bad since it's output while the bike is revved up is ~12v. I do have a spare Honda one I can test to see if the Suzuki R/R is bad, or if it's the stator.
 
SirFoxx said:
Hello-- yesterday I went to start my bike and noticed my new battery was very weak (all lights were super dim). Upon checking the amp draw between the battery post and the battery wire (after a fresh charge), my meter read that there was a .11A draw. Enough to make the battery go dead in a few days.... Seeing as the R/R's aren't the greatest on these bikes, i put my hand on it and noticed the middle was sightly warm. Odd.... So I unplugged it and the power draw went to 0. Does this mean the R/R is bad, or is there something else drawing power, like the defunct radio?

I also have my suspicions that my R/R is bad since it's output while the bike is revved up is ~12v. I do have a spare Honda one I can test to see if the Suzuki R/R is bad, or if it's the stator.
Click to expand...

The SHUNT R/R's have blocking diodes (full wave rectifier) so if current is flowing in then it is bad.
 
SirFoxx said:
..... my meter read that there was a .11A draw.
.... So I unplugged it and the power draw went to 0. Does this mean the R/R is bad,....
Click to expand...

Probably, yes.



SirFoxx said:
.....
I also have my suspicions that my R/R is bad since it's output while the bike is revved up is ~12v.......
Click to expand...
Definatly something wrong in charging system; stator or R/R or real bad connection.



SirFoxx said:
....... I do have a spare Honda one I can test to see if the Suzuki R/R is bad, or if it's the stator.
Click to expand...

Honda R/R likley to have more wires. THe additional wire will be a "sence" wire. To use the r/r for just a test, conect the "sense" wire along with the hot wire. Will no want to leave it that way as it will present a battery drain.

Bigg check of charging system is to measure the AC output of the stator, disconnected, engine running at mid rpm (like 4000-4500 rpm). SHould be about 70vac between each/any two leads.

.
 
I just changed out the R/R with a spare Suzuki R/R I had, and no more power draw and my battery is now charging! Wooooooo!
 
I always put the sense wire to the battery. It isn't a problem in by experience. Overcharging the battery due to voltage drop to the sense wire in the tail light circuit was a problem.
 
850 Combat said:
I always put the sense wire to the battery. It isn't a problem in by experience. Overcharging the battery due to voltage drop to the sense wire in the tail light circuit was a problem.
Click to expand...

I measured the current draw in the honda r/r sence line. I dont recall what it was, but was enough to conncern me. SO I used the brake light power (org/wht) to operate for the sence line (per dunnage kit).

And then if ther was, say, a 1 volt drop in the wiring somewhere, the r/r would raise the output so that it saw what it wanted on the sence line, which would mean the voltage would be 1 volt too high.

Yah, when I had the sence line on the brake light circuit , and I lost the signal fuse, so no voltage on the sence line... my volt meter (I installed one in fairing) was reading 18 point something lots, YIKES .... in a rain storm.... almost 200 miles from home. The r/r was putting out all it could, raising battery volt way way high (but, gee, still low on sence line).

So after that, I added a relay. The realy operated by the brake circuit, and a relay contact swtich on a battery voltage wire to the sence line.

.
 
I replaced my Suzuki R/R with another Suzuki one off a smaller gs bike..I think a gs750? When I bought my igniter, the seller left it attached to the mounting plate, which still had the fuse box, starting relay, and the R/R. However, if that one were to fail, I'll bookmark that page so I can use it as a reference when installing my Honda spare.
 
SirFoxx said:
I replaced my Suzuki R/R with another Suzuki one off a smaller gs bike..I think a gs750? When I bought my igniter, the seller left it attached to the mounting plate, which still had the fuse box, starting relay, and the R/R. However, if that one were to fail, I'll bookmark that page so I can use it as a reference when installing my Honda spare.
Click to expand...

You understand that your prior R/R failed while it was trying to kill your stator. This new fresh R/R could easily succeed in what the first failed. At that point you have to change the stator. Unless you change to a series R/R the process will continue.
 
How was it 'trying' to kill the stator?? My 1000 has milliamp level draw like the OP, trying to connect the dots.

posplayr said:
You understand that your prior R/R failed while it was trying to kill your stator. This new fresh R/R could easily succeed in what the first failed. At that point you have to change the stator. Unless you change to a series R/R the process will continue.
Click to expand...
 
not sure what draw you are talking abut, but if the blocking diodes are letting 1 amp through then they are failing.
Electronics fails primarily due to vibration and heat stress cycling. This is a primary failure mode for a SHUNT R/R. You are also cooking the stator not from the 1 amps but from the SHUNT operation that is what damaged the R/R. The 1 amp is just a symptom. Like bleeding after you have been cut.
 
Ok, so I will be looking into the Honda R/R swap this weekend along with the sense wire relay mod.

I did take three gs1100 out for a few errands with the other Suzuki regulator swapped, and noticed it also stopped charging (made it home with 9.5v on the battery) Could it be possible I have another bad R/R, or could it be a bad ground? I did check my stator voltage at idle, and I believe it to be weak in my opinion, but that shouldn't prevent it from charging, right? I will provide voltages if requested.
 
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