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R/R probably hosed? Look at the PIC!

  • Thread starter Thread starter BriTXbike
  • Start date Start date
B

BriTXbike

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This link might point to the same issue but I wanted to make sure

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=1920&highlight=smoking+connection

Started my bike up to head to work tonight and while she was choked and warming up smoke started to come from under the side cover.

So I tuned the bike off and and pulled the cover. Inspected and found that the wire harness connected to the R/R was the source. Pulled the connecter off and the connection at the blue/white plug was causing the melting and smoke. SSSSSSSSSooooooooooooooooo any ideas what is fired? I know the wire is to the Stator but I wasn't sure if it might be the Stator or R/R that's toast. Well then again if one is gone the other usually is from what I read. :evil:
 
Sorry, i can't answer your question directly, but I can tell you this:

Any questions concerning your charging system can be answered by testing your system according to the STATOR PAPERS found here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm

I printed out each volume of the stator papers, bought myself a multimeter, and went at it on my bike. They seem tricky at first but if you read them through and follow the flow sheet correctly, you will be able to answer all of your questions yourself. I was able to diagnose my R/R and stator correctly and now my bike charges great!
Good luck!
 
Oh hell. Damn man, you need a streak of good luck. Look for corroded connectors from the stator to the battery. Don't lock and load that piece! I know you've done it before, I just don't know what else to tell you. Really hope one of the other guys has a better solution. High heat can usually be traced to high resistance caused by a bad connection. I know you've heard it before...

Just so you know you're not the only one who goes thru this. I ordered a new stator and r/r from Dennis Kirk today...$223. This will be the 4th replacement in about 15 years.

Good Luck, Brian! You deserve it.
 
Yeah Jim I had it happen tonight and I thought to myself "HOW DID I KNOW THIS WAS SURE TO HAPPEN!!" :evil: I feel as though this site has turned into multi-headed Therapist at this point.

in light of my previous posts I didn't end up replacing my Stator or R/R it was just the battery. In the process of finding this simple fix out I cleaned all the connections between the Stator/R&R, all grounds, starter button, and clutch safety switch.

Of course I'm no electrics wiz so hopefully Focus my save my ass again with finding the problem.
 
The stator connections on my '83 looked charred and blackened when I got my bike years ago -- the bullet connectors are just not good enough for this critical connection.

I soldered them ASAP, and then found this site and found out how common this is.
 
So maybe just some Silver soder could fix the issue since this wire is coming directly from the Stator? I put new billet plugs on in August and haven't had any problems since. The only change is the connectors got a little to hot one and the plastic cover melted on them but no issues other wise.
 
BriTXbike said:
Of course I'm no electrics wiz so hopefully Focus my save my ass again with finding the problem.
Click to expand...

name the date and time and get the grill warmed up. 8)
I will bring my 24K gold plated copper connectors (resistance? what resistance!!)
 
One of my stator connections let go of some smoke. It was a lousy crimp on the bullit connector pin. I replaced it and soldered all the others. No more problems.
 
I pulled the three connections off the stator today while running at 5000 RPM and, unless my voltmeter is broke, I'm getting 0 Volts reading on all three phases. Is this possible?

I ran the same test 2 months ago and all the numbers were matching up.
 
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WHEN I WAS CHECKING MY CHARGING SYSTEM. I CHECKED ALL THREE WIRES AND NO VOLTAGE. I FOUND OUT THAT THERE WAS ANOTHER MODE ON THE MULTIMETER THAT CHECKED DIFFERENT VOLTAGE OR SOMETHING. THERE'S 2 VOLTAGE MODES ON MY MULTIMETER. THE MODE I ALWAYS USE TO CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE DOESN'T CHECK THE STATOR VOLTAGE. MAKE SURE YOU TRY ALL THE SETTING ON YOUR MULTIMETER
 
BriTXbike said:
I pulled the three connections off the stator today while running at 5000 RPM and, unless my voltmeter is broke, I'm getting 0 Volts reading on all three phases. Is this possible?

I ran the same test 2 months ago and all the numbers were matching up.
Click to expand...

Yep it's possible and there may not be anything wrong with your stator! Several years ago I had the stator wires chaff where they run through the cover and burn into and my reading was Zero vac. Believe it or not the stator was not harmed and after repairing the wires the stators output was and is per specs. Hopefully you'll have similiar luck.
 
Use the meter's AC volt settingt for the stator, DC wont work on it, AC volts should be between 60 and 80 AC volts, if not stator is gone then check the RR out too, use a good battery or a new one to get the proper readings. Oh yeah welcome to stator and RR hell, it was gonna happen sooner or later.
 
Well had my G-friend help this evening and I'm getting about 84V across the board for all phases. So now what? Maybe just replace the R/R and see if that resolves the issue? I'm kinda thinking that the R/R may not be accepting the voltage and thus causing the the connection to melt. I've been following the papers but I keeping running into a hicup with phase C. FYI battery has run great for the last two months since I got it. Also I have connected my (-) and (+) directly to the battery terminals from the R/R.
 
the connection melted due to resistance in the connection. (resistance = heat)

the stator puts out full power all the time, the regulator just switches where it goes.
if the battery is full the regulator sends the excess power to ground.

the GS uses what is called a AC generator, if the rotor is spinning it is making power, the factory bullit connectors are borderline at best when new, add in a few years and some corrosion on those brass connectors and you get melted wires at the connections.
 
Well I changed the connections out from the starter and started her up. No smoking now so I had my g-friend rev her up a few times. Thought I saw out of the corner of my eye a blue flame/arch. So killed the engine and took the R/R off. This is what I found. Needless to say I think I'm going to work on replacing it, even if it does work.
detail
 
TOASTED R/R *PIC* But why?

TOASTED R/R *PIC* But why?

Take a look at my Toasted OEM R/R:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/britxbike/detail?.dir=53ba&.dnm=4371.jpg&.src=ph

Only thing I modified was the black and red directly to the battery terminals. Worked with Zero issues for the last 2k miles

Started with smoking wire at R/R from one of the stator phases one day. Ok resistence some where. Changed the connectors to gold plated and no more smoking. Checked phases and still all reading around 84V at 5k. Went and checked battery terminals for V's and everything looked correct. All of a sudden blue "light" (probably a flame) came from the back side of the R/R. Pulled it off the next day and this is what I found. Honda CM is on it's way but my question. What the Hell Caused this to happen?!
 
TOASTED R/R *PIC* But why?

TOASTED R/R *PIC* But why?

Take a look at my Toasted OEM R/R:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/britxbike/detail?.dir=53ba&.dnm=4371.jpg&.src=ph

Only thing I modified was the black and red directly to the battery terminals. Worked with Zero issues for the last 2k miles

Started with smoking wire at R/R from one of the stator phases one day. Ok resistence some where. Changed the connectors to gold plated and no more smoking. Checked phases and still all reading around 84V at 5k. Went and checked battery terminals for V's and everything looked correct. All of a sudden blue "light" (probably a flame) came from the back side of the R/R. Pulled it off the next day and this is what I found. Honda CM is on it's way but my question. What the Hell Caused this to happen?!
 
Before you power everythng back up, try this.

Remove the battery and connect the - lead to the - battery wire.

Connect the + lead to the + battery terminal.

Pull all fuses and then measure the resistance. Wiggle all the wires in the harness. When ou replace the regulator do it again before putting the battery in.

After the RR is replaced connect jumper cables to the motorcycle battery on the floor and connect the + jumper cable lead to the battery + cable and the - jumper cable to the engine. Connect the engine last!

Start the bike. Check the voltages. Having the battery out lets you troubleshoot easier and see what is going on.
 
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